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THE 



SPORTSMAN'S Paradise; 



OR, 



THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



B^Ar WATSON, A.M., M.D. 



i^4 



WITH ILLUSTRATIONS BY 
DANIEL C. AND HARRY BEARD. 




PHILADELPHIA : 

J. B. LIPPINCOTT COMPANY. 






Caf^ncbt. i»7. bjr J. B. UmiWJTT CoMrAXY. 






AFFECTIONATELY INSCRIBED 

TO 

REV. THOMAS M. KILLEEN, 

A STEADFAST FRIEND, AN AGREEABLE COMPANION, 
AND A TRUE SPORTSMAN, 

BY THE AUTHOR. 



PREFACE. 



The acme of pleasure can only be attained by the 
sportsman when his confreres are permitted to share with 
him in the excitement of the chase. In this respect the 
chase may be compared to a good dinner, which is always 
most enjoyable when partaken of in the company of con- 
genial spirits. A book may likewise be further compared 
to a dinner, since the first chapter is commonly introduc- 
tory to the better parts which come in the regular order 
of the courses, while a narrative which produces no pleas- 
urable excitement for the reader is like a dinner without 
wine. 

This menu has been prepared for the general reading 
public, but it is thought by the author that it may be es- 
pecially enjoyed by sportsmen and the rising generation 
of boys, who frequently find more pleasure in the perusal 
of books truthfully delineating the excitement of the chase 
than in reading those of fiction. 

The author is deeply indebted to the accomplished artist, 
Dan. C. Beard, of New York, who has so greatly assisted 
him in the presentation of the more interesting parts of 
this narrative, and also to the publishers, J. B. Lippincott 
Company, of Philadelphia, whose work speaks so well for 
the printing art in America. 

B. A. WATSON. 

Jersey City, N. J., October 12, 1887. 

vii 



X CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER V. 

PAGE 

The Start for a Grand Moose- and Deer-Hunt — Selection of a Pho- 
tographer AND the Chief Guide— A Romantic Wedding and the 
Honeymoon — Arrival at Rosseau Village — Canadian Stage Route — 
Proprietor and Driver— Our Old Friend « Chris"— Our New-Made 
Acquaintance— Mr. Struce, of Brooklyn 80 

CHAPTER VI. 

Our Departure from Rosseau — A Charming Morning and a Healthful 
Walk — Camped near Spence— Incidents which occurred there- 
Joined BY our Guides — Camped on Birch Island — Camp-Life on Ahmic 
Lake — Struce starts for Home — The Balance of the Party off on 
a Long Tramp — The Beaver's Trysting-Places — The Photographer's 
Sport near Burk's Falls — Plodding through Woods after Dark — 
The Youthful Driver — Arrival at Sphynx Shoot .... 102 



CHAPTER VII. 

The Movements of our Hunting- Party — Crossing the Hor-ka-por-ka Port- 
age — Fishing in Rock Lake — Another Advance — Deer-Hunting, etc. 
— The Journey from Trout Lake to Long Lake — Camp on Long Lake — 
More Deer-Hunting — An Exciting Contest, in which the Photogra- 
pher Wins 124 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Drying Venison — A Grand and Beautiful Mountain Gorge — The Meet- 
ing at the Beaver-Dam — Our Photographer Lost in the Wilderness 
— A Lonely Night on Buck Lake — The Horrible Dream — The Lost 
Man Found — The Unexpected Meeting with a Bull Moose . . 146 



CHAPTER IX. 

A Shot at a Bull Moose — Following the Moose-Trail — Moose-calling 
— Breaking Camp on Long Lake — Camp on Trajl between Upper 
Long and Sugar-Bush Lakes — Bad Weather and Consequent Delay 
— Preparation and Start on the Reconnoissance 167 



CONTENTS. xi 

CHAPTER X. 

PAGE 

The First Dinner — Killed a Deer — Following a Moose-Trail — Camped 
ON THE Trail — Preparation for spending the Night — Our Lean-to 
— A Snow-Storm — Long, Dreary Tramp — Discovery of a Moose- Yard 
— A Highly-Exciting Chase — Killed two Red Deer — A Disgusted 
and Angry Captain — Honest Toil brings Refreshing Sleep — The 
Hunt resumed 189 



CHAPTER XI. 

The Discovery of Moose — The Killing of two Moose and the Wound- 
ing OF Another — Our Camp on Moose Hill — The Return to Sugar- 
Bush Lake — A Severe Rain-Storm — Return to Moose Hill— The 
Dead Moose Photographed— Another Expedition — The Bear — A 
Snow-Storm — A Hard Tramp 210 



CHAPTER XI I. 

The Bear which was not killed— Following the Moose— The Captain 
killed the Bull Moose — Packing out of the Woods — The Rest at 
Harkness's Shack— A Hard Tramp— Burk's Falls— A Deer-Hunt— 
Another Trip to Canada in the Company of my Son, a Lad op 
Fifteen — Teaching the Boy to Shoot — Killed his First Deer— 
An Exciting Chase— The Old Doe makes her Escape . . . .235 



CHAPTER XIII. 

The Continuance of the Deer-Hunt — An Exciting Chase— Brilliant 

MANCEUVRiNG OF AN OlD BuCK— BREAKING CaMP ON THE ISLAND — A 

Partridge-Hunt by the Roadside — An Exciting Race between "Jim" 
AND the Old Cocker-Spaniel — Our Return to Maganetawan — The 
Trip from Maganetawan to Toronto 260 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 



Camp on Long Lake Frontispiece. 

" We immediately walked up to the office, each carrying a 
double-barrelled shot-gun, followed by three hunting- 

DOGs" Page 15 

"Say nothing about the condition of our clothing" . .• . " 29 

Swallowing fish and fish-stories "48 

" He has evaded the dog, but — " "52 

"Tuesday, THE Governor and myself each shot a deer" . . "67 

" It is a serious thing to get lost in the wilds of Canada" . " 76 

A wedding in the wilderness "95 

" I don't believe she knows that she is wanted" ... " 108 

We are ready for the journey "129 

" He shot the deer just as it broke from cover" ... " 133 

Beaver-dam and house "150 

"The first glance which I obtained of this huge animal was 

while he was standing with his side towards me" . . " 168 

The woods are full of them " 201 

"Fire at him!" " 213 

The dead monarch " 217 

The nearest settlement " 234 

Food for the ravens left by bruin " 236 

A hard tramp — HOMEWARD BOUND " 242 

"We FOUND THEM STANDING ON THE DRY GROUND, WHILE THE DOE 
WAS LYING AT THEIR FEET AND THE HOUNDS WERE FAWNING 

ABOUT THEM" " 265 

The DEAD DOE " 267 

That retriever " 285 



The Sportsman's Paradise; 



OR, THE 



LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



CHAPTER I. 

Recreation and its Objects — Classification of Hunters — Active Exercise 
AN Excellent Remedy for Obesity — Sport at Shelbyville, Tenn. — 
What Occurred at the Evans House — A Friend in Need is a Friend 
Indeed — Home Once More. 




HE prudent business man, 
i before making an investment 
or inaugurating any important 
>y^ change in his affairs, is accus- 
tomed to ask the question, Will 
it pay? Is it a good investment? The same question 
may be properly asked by any person prior to his de- 
parture for the great forests of the Dominion of Canada. 
The answer to this query must generally depend on 
the physical condition of the individual and his apprecia- 



2 ■ THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

tion of the sports which are obtainable in these grand 
forests. 

Man, in all conditions of life, after prolonged and 
earnest toil, requires recreation, — i.e., a refreshment of 
strength and spirits ; but this cannot always be obtain- 
able in the same way. The overwrought workingman, 
in the full possession of physical energy, in perfect health, 
and possessed of the ordinary amount of physical 
strength, does not require the same sort of recreation 
as the sedentary, overworked student, professional or 
business man. In the former instance, a few days' rest, 
with an increased amount of sleep, serves to fully restore 
the temporarily depressed physical and mental vigor. 

The intelligent practice of the fatigued German 
workingman, who gathers his family about him and hies 
away to some neighboring grove, where he spends a 
peaceful and quiet holiday, thus obtaining pure air and 
rest, cannot be too highly commended. The whole family 
having spent a pleasant and profitable day in the open 
air, commonly return to their overcrowded and badly- 
ventilated apartments in the early evening; each member 
of the family being better satisfied with himself, and what 
is still better, satisfied with the others, they now partake 
of their frugal meal, and retire early to their humble cots, 
where they may sleep soundly, suffeiiiig neither fro77t in- 
somnia nor fjdghtful dreams, but awake in the morning 
completely refreshed. Consequently the Sabbath comes 
to the workingman as a complete restorer, as a day of 
perfect recreation. 

Physical exertion commonly produces only bodily fa- 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 3 

tigue, while the vital organs are maintained by the same 
power in a healthy state, and their various functions are 
performed in the best possible manner. It is therefore 
apparent that the physical condition of workingmen is 
not generally such as to require the active exercise which 
the hunter gains by the Canadian chase, especially when 
stalking his game ; but a high appreciation of the sport 
may be an ample compensation for every expenditure. 

It may be mentioned in this connection that various 
hunting-parties seek recreation in the forest in divers 
ways ; and consequently it is necessary to offer on this 
point an explanation for the benefit of the uninitiated, 
although no attempt will be made to give a complete 
•classification. The heterogeneous mass of men entering 
the forest with guns and dogs are generally supposed to 
be hunters, but in fact among these may be frequently 
found men whose peculiarities of mind and tastes are 
more nearly allied to those of Oscar Wilde than to those 
of Daniel Boone. It is therefore natural that these 
game-seekers should be continually looking for a hunter's 
paradise in the shape of a first-class hotel, in the midst 
of a grand forest, from the porticoes of which can be shot 
the great moose, the beautiful deer, and all the other 
species of smaller game, while the same must be acces- 
sible by an elegant steamer or grand palace-car. 

This class of hunters are continually fault-finding, are 
never happy, and seem to wish their companions to be 
as miserable as themselves. They never enter the woods 
without returning to their homes disgusted and thoroughly 
dissatisfied. Another class, commonly calling themselves 



4 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

sportsmen, frequently start from their homes heavily 
laden with kegs, demijohns, and numerous boxes well 
filled with bottles ; and it may here be added that their 
luggage conveys a correct idea of the recreation which 
they may be expected to obtain when partially withdrawn 
from the restrictions imposed upon them by the rules of 
civilization. It will not be necessary for the accomplish- 
ment of their purpose that they should traverse wide 
tracts of wilderness, or be supplied with the most im- 
proved guns, the best dogs, or a large amount of food, 
since the free imbibition of the spirits with which they are 
so abundantly supplied will assuredly give them a highly 
spiritual nature, in which condition they should not be 
expected to join in the chase or perform any other acts 
which commonly characterize the ordinary corporeal man. 
It will therefore be sufficient for their purposes that they 
withdraw from our crowded thoroughfares to some quiet 
nook, village, or grove, where, in cabin or tent, surrounded 
by some congenial guides, — boon companions, — they suc- 
ceed in whiling away a few days or weeks in a style 
which has always honored the memory of Tam O'Shanter. 

It is not very unusual, even among these parties, when 
the effects of their deep imbibition have passed away, to 
find them engaged in target-practice, and they may occa- 
sionally sally forth for a few hours in search of game. It 
is generally a matter of some pride with these so-called 
sportsmen to be able to say that they shot, during their 
sojourn in the land of game, one or more deer, and to 
accomplish this purpose it is said to be not an infrequent 
practice with them to send out their guides with instruc- 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 5 

tions to purchase one of these desirable animals, which had 
been previously taken in the chase by some other hunter ; 
the bargain having been made, the deer is brought to the 
ambitious sportsman, who then fires a charge of buck-shot 
or a rifle-bullet into the dead carcass, and on this act his 
claim to have shot or killed the much-coveted game is 
based. 

Havinof now mentioned some of the characteristics of 
the pseudo-sportsman, we turn, with increased pleasure, to 
a consideration of the more noble character, — the true 
hunter. The true hunter, in many particulars, resembles 
the true soldier, and in several respects their lives are es- 
sentially the same : both are inured to hardships and like- 
wise exposed to dangers, while unusual fatigue, severe and 
often prolonged deprivation, are their common lot. Both 
are stimulated by conquest and likewise depressed by 
failure. The true hunter's enthusiasm, like the true sol- 
dier's, resembles, in some respects, the spirit which ani- 
mates, under certain circumstances, the old war-horse and 
the decrepit hunting-dog. Instances are occasionally re- 
lated in which a noble charger has been compelled by ad- 
verse circumstances to accept service on the farm in his old 
age; but even now, when harnessed to the plough, we are 
told that this noble animal is frequently so excited by the 
bugle-notes sounding the cavalry charge that he rears his 
head and tail, cocks his ears, and dashes away in search of 
an unseen enemy, — showing that he has not yet lost his 
fires of youth, and that he still desires to participate in the 
bloody work of war, — to hear the boom of the cannon, the 
rattling shots of the carbine, or to see the flashes of the 



6 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

glittering' sabres. The old, decrepit hunting-dog, half 
blinded by age, stiffened in every limb by rheumatism, 
having been compelled by infirmities to remain in the 
kitchen corner for years, is aroused to a new life by the 
click of a gun-lock, raises his eyes towards his master's 
face, staggers to his feet, and once more expresses his love 
of the chase by jumping about the hunter's limbs, lovingly 
caressing his hands, and following on with the other dogs, 
huntinof through field and forest until his strength com- 
pletely fails, then uttering a dismal howl, — proclaiming his 
disappointment and rage caused by his inability to go 
farther, — falls to the ground and frequently fails to reach 
again the kitchen corner, but is often mercifully relieved 
from further suffering by death in this last effort. The true 
sportsman is possessed of a high degree of enthusiasm, — 
he joins in the chase because it gives him pleasure, — ex- 
citement which it produces causes him to forget, for the 
time, hunger and fatigue. He therefore follows the game 
from morning until night. His food is commonly plain, but 
nutritious, still no one enjoys eating more than the sports- 
man, since his system has been fully prepared for the food, 
and it may be further added that the food is adapted for 
the wants of the body. The hunter makes his bed on 
smooth mother-earth, spreads his rubber blanket over the 
sweet-scented balsam branches, or should his time be too 
much occupied with other matters, then these branches will 
be omitted, but without seriously interfering with his repose. 
It is important to remember in this connection that those 
who have lived a sedentary and studious life are particu- 
larly prone to suffer from various forms of dyspepsia and 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 7 

likewise insomnia. // may also be boldly asserted at this 
point, without entering into any long inquiry beaidng on the 
etiological or pathological conditions of these morbid states, 
that the man who will engage in the chase with all the e7t- 
thusiasm of a true sportsinan, and will follow the same a 
few months, will certainly find more benefit frojjz this course 
of procedure than could possibly be obtained by the most sys- 
tematic restrictions in the tise of food. Active exercise thus 
obtained will efficiently relieve obesity and also develop the 
muscular system. 

In this manner it is entirely practical, and at the same 
time free from danger, to reduce the weight to any desired 
standard, and that, too, while the diet is wholly unrestrained, 
except by the exigencies which are inseparable from the 
life of a hunter in the forest, more or less removed from 
the luxuries of modern civilization. In this instance a re- 
duction of weight is effected almost entirely by the active 
and prolonged exercise, which, instead of being a drudgery 
hard to be borne, is a noble sort of labor which gives rise to 
the most pleasant thoughts, and at the- same time gratifies 
an exalted ambition. 

The literary man who joins in the chase with true 
sportsmen will very soon discover that hunting is both a 
science and an art ; and consequently this pastime supplies 
him with the necessary occupation for both body and mind. 
The modus operandi by which it is accomplished is easily 
comprehended by any thoughtful person. The loss of 
adipose tissue depends almost entirely, in this case, on the 
exercise taken, while the increased muscular development 
is due to the same agency. It will therefore be observed 



8 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

that depriving fat patients of certain sorts of food which 
are frequently considered by them as essential to their 
happiness is not required by this method of treatment. 

The athlete generally depends for the reduction of 
weight on this system of active exercise rather than on 
any restrictions of diet. Furthermore, there is no doubt 
that if this simple method of treating obesity was fully 
understood it would be very popular with those affected 
with a tendency to an over-accumulation of fat, since per- 
sonal deformity would thus be avoided, and the individual 
so relieved would be enabled to perform his role in life as a 
worker and bread-winner with increased ease. 

The science of cookery has now attained to such a 
degree of perfection as to promote epicurean tastes, and 
likewise to lead to extensive gormandizing, especially 
among the rich and those of sedentary habits. Its evil 
effects become most apparent in middle life, while it can- 
not be denied that in many instances it is carried forward 
into old age. During childhood and early life, the age of 
great physical activity, obesity is rarely seen. This fact 
speaks volumes in favor of active physical exercise as an 
agency for the prevention of obesity ; but it is not to be 
supposed that every person overburdened with fat will 
possess the required energy to exercise sufficiently to 
materially diminish this undesirable burden. Many of 
them will be seen waddling about our cities, even when the 
temperature is below seventy degrees Fahrenheit, puffing 
and blowing like a wind-broken horse while being exercised, 
and when the weather becomes warmer these unfortunate 
mortals are compelled to employ fans, seek rest in shady 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. g 

nooks, imbibe ice-water and other cooling drinks in order 
to relieve, so far as possible, their present misery. 

The efforts made by these very corpulent persons to 
secure merely present relief forcibly remind me of the 
action of an over-fattened hog on a hot July day, when it 
half buries itself in the cool earth, mud, or any other 
cooling substance which may be accessible to the poor 
sufferer, and in which it commonly remains, uttering only 
an occasional grunt, until food is again placed before it, 
when it once more gorges itself. So lives our typical fat 
man. So lives our over-fattened hog. Both live only to 
eat, but do not eat to live. Let it be ever remembered 
that physical activity is antagonistic to an excessive accu- 
mulation of fat in the whole animal creation, and, conse- 
quently, the ever-active weasel, fox, and many other active 
animals which might be mentioned are never burdened 
with obesity. 

It may be boldly asserted that physical activity is the 
very best prophylactic agent which has ever been employed 
against obesity, and that it is also entitled to a high rank 
as a curative means in the treatment of the same morbid 
condition. It must be evident to every thinking person 
that the time spent by our overworked sedentary students, 
professional and business men at Long Branch, Newport, 
Saratoga, and other fashionable resorts does not yield 
them ample returns : it does not supply them with com- 
plete recreation, but only idleness, — a condition of things 
better calculated to do pfood to the overworked farmer 
and mechanic. This remark is likewise applicable to the 
majority of the middle-aged ladies who are found lounging 



lO THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

away their time in these places, while the younger ladies, 
who dance, ride on horseback, and otherwise exercise, can- 
not be placed in the same category. 

There are certain conditions which are absolutely 
necessary to a high degree of bodily health, and among 
them may be mentioned, as being of the highest impor- 
tance, physical exercise, pure air, the proper quantity of 
wholesome food, and sufficient sleep. 

Having given our attention to the subject of obesity, 
we will now turn to the consideration of some of the 
affections connected with the alimentary canal and nervous 
system. These diseases are specially common among 
sedentary persons and those engaged in literary pursuits ; 
therefore professional and business men are frequently 
their victims. I am able to call to mind the case of a 
lawyer who has always been very irregular in regard to 
the quality and quantity of food which he has taken since 
he commenced the practice of his profession, and, as might 
naturally be anticipated, inasmuch as he has entirely dis- 
recjarded all the well-known laws of dio-estion for about 
fifteen years, he is now paying the penalty which is required 
of those who violate these natural regulations, since he 
suffers severely from dyspepsia. However, it should not 
be inferred that his disreo-ard of the natural laws has been 
fully and specifically expressed in the above statement, 
since, in addition to what has already been said, it should 
have been added that he has generally regulated his hours 
for sleep by the amount of time which he has been able 
to spare from study and other mental efforts ; and inasmuch 
as he has never been able to keep up with these demands. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. u 

his hours for repose have been generally insufficient and 
very irregular. 

Let us now enter more specifically into a consideration 
of his irregularities of diet, and it may be here assumed, 
for the purpose of illustrating our subject, that this busy 
man has been accustomed to rise at six o'clock in the 
morning, breakfast hurriedly on a cold potato, rush off to 
business, keep himself at the boiling heat of excitement until 
one P.M., when he may enter some eating-house, swallow 
quickly some sauer-kraut and ice-cream, going through 
about the same business performance in the afternoon as 
in the morning, maintaining about the same temperature ; 
but when six o'clock p.m. is reached you may possibly find 
him sitting down at a well-provided table, bolting, as 
rapidly as possible, his dinner, that he may be able to 
spend at least six hours after this meal in studying a case 
which he is expected to try in court the following day. I 
have been informed, however, that he occasionally misses 
a dinner, and that if search be made in his bedroom you 
will find him there, lamenting his sad fate and complaining 
loudly of a severe pain in his abdomen. The same gentle- 
man further disregards the rules of health by an intem- 
perate use of tobacco, — chewing as well as smoking, — and 
frequently entering the dining-room while using the weed, 
•which he only discards in time to begin the mastication of 
food. Is it strange that this gentleman, having followed 
such a life for about fifteen years, should now find 
himself suffering with dyspepsia, insomnia, and hypochon- 
driasis ? Is it not strange, on the contrary, that he is still 
living? The practical question which now presents itself 



12 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

for our consideration is, How can he be benefited ? Does 
he require medicine ? The answei' to this question must be 
emphatically, no ! He must have recreationy and having 
been thus brought into a healthy state, he must then be 
brought to obey the laws of nature, to live and work like a 
rational man. 

The unexplored wilderness affords the most inviting- 
field for the required recreation in these cases, and offers, 
at the same time, the most favorable conditions for the 
restoration of this class of cases, especially if the patient 
can be prevailed upon to lead the life of an active, indus- 
trious hunter. 

In the wilderness the patient is removed from every 
temptation to any sort of mental labor ; he is undisturbed 
by business or any other outside communications, since he 
is far from post-office or telegraph. The new order of 
business, if engaged in stalking game, is tramp, tramp, 
during the live-long day, while the mind is occupied with 
pleasant anticipations of prospective or present sport ; the 
blood courses through its vessels with unwonted vigor, the 
lungs are fully and rapidly inflated with pure air, which 
very seldom happens among sedentary persons, although 
so important to the health of all classes ; a wholesome 
appetite is engendered by this active exercise, and after 
spending a delightful evening around the brightly blazing 
camp-fire, where a rehearsal of the adventures of the day, 
with story and song, enliven the hour, the sportsman retires 
to his couch beneath his canvas tent or lean-to, where his 
blankets have been spread for him by his guides on balsam 
boughs which are giving forth their agreeable perfume. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 13 

On these he soon falls asleep without rocking or song, — 
sleeps during the entire night, and awakens in the morning 
fully refreshed and prepared for another day's toil. Thus 
passes day after day with the true sportsman in the forest. 

Illustrating the health-giving power of active exercise, 
the author will here briefly refer to a trip which he re- 
cently made to Shelbyville, Tennessee, in company with his 
legal friend whose case has already been mentioned ; and 
here it should be also stated that this lawyer had ter- 
minated, on the day of his departure for the South, a 
series of important trials, and was, therefore, in a highly 
nervous state. This nervous excitability was very marked 
in all his movements and doings during our journey. 
We reached War Trace about three o'clock in the morn- 
ine, rested until six a.m., when we started out with our 
guns and dogs for Shelbyville, distant from the former 
place about eight miles. We had determined to spend 
the day with the quail, which are very abundant in this 
part of the State, and to bring up in time for the evening 
meal at the Evans House in Shelbyville. 

It was a warm autumn day, but the excitement of 
the sport kept us pretty steadily in motion. It was not, 
therefore, until late in the afternoon when we began to 
think of food, rest, and shelter; and now, inasmuch as 
we had made a eood baof of birds, it seemed entirely 
proper to abandon any further search for game and 
take the direct route for the hotel, which was reached 
about five o'clock. The moment we left the fields, en- 
tered the road, and began to plod along towards our 
destination, the spirit of the sportsman immediately 



14 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. 

abandoned us, and then we realized that we were sorely 
fatigued: every step was painful, the walking was miser- 
able drudgery; we walked a few rods and then halted; 
started on again ; our progress was slow, but we could 
not remain where we were, — we must go forward. The 
desired haven was at last reached. We immediately 
walked up to the office, each carrying a double-barrelled 
shot-gun, followed by three hunting-dogs, registered our 
names and that of the gunner who accompanied us, asked 
for our rooms, to which we were prompdy conducted, 
threw off some portions of our wardrobe which had been 
burdensome during the greater part of the day, indulged 
momentarily in a brevet-bath, dropped without further 
delay on the beds with which our rooms were provided, 
and within ten minutes each man in the party was sleeping 
soundly, and condnued to sleep for about two hours, when 
we were called to the evening meal, arose from our beds 
gready refreshed, made our toilets, after which we partook 
of a hearty meal and again returned to our rooms, where 
we recounted some of the events of the day, then retired 
in good order to our couches, where we all slept soundly 
during the entire night, my legal friend forgetting for the 
time being that he had ever suffered from insomnia or 
anything else. 

We were aroused in the morning by the loud ringing 
of a bell, which, in this hotel, was used to announce the 
time for rising and also the proper moment for entering 
the dining-room for meals. We responded in due time 
to the demand which had been made upon us by this 
ringing, and consequendy we were prepared to obey the 



1 6 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

second summons which informed us that breakfast was 
now ready. However, owing to greater promptness on 
the part of others, there were seated around the large 
hotel table about twenty persons at the time we en- 
tered the dining-room, who were observed to cast side- 
long glances at us without speaking. Few words were 
spoken during this meal by any of the guests, but our 
party was closely eyed. It was not, however, until after 
breakfast that the lawyer and myself learned the purport 
of all this when our gunner, Alfred Goldsmith, called my 
legal friend aside and informed him that the proprietor 
of the hotel did not seem to be quite at ease in regard 
to the nature of our business. The lawyer informed me, 
after his interview with Mr. Goldsmith, that the proprietor 
had been quizzing our gunner in regard to our intentions 
in visiting that section of country. When informed by 
the latter that we came from New York to Tennessee 
for a few days' quail-shooting, the proprietor expressed, 
emphatically, his doubts in regard to the accuracy of this 
statement, and promptly informed Goldsmith that he was 
not prepared to believe that the gentlemen with him were 
such fools as to travel so far merely to kill a few birds. 
This remark was too much for Goldsmith ; he had no 
answer for it. The proprietor observing his silence, in- 
formed him that he had had the honor of entertaining, 
within a few months, Jesse James and his party, and that 
while stopping in this hotel they had occupied the same 
rooms in which we were now lodo-ed. Goldsmith was 
now asked if he was familiar with the different points of 
interest about Shelbyville. He answered in the negative. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



17 



The proprietor then mentioned many objects of local 
interest, among others the hangman's tree, situated about 
four miles from the hotel, and also added that there had 
already been hung about a half-dozen persons from its 
branches. Poor Goldsmith was now thoroughly frightened, 
and therefore communicated promptly with my legal 
friend, in order that any threatening misfortune might be 
avoided. The lawyer and myself having learned that 
there was really some anxiety manifested in regard to 
our intentions, promptly determined to call to our assist- 
ance John Royall, our former classmate, now living near 
this hotel, and who was sufficiently acquainted with my 
legal friend to be able to vouch for his honesty and 
truthfulness. There was no time lost, inasmuch as we 
proceeded immediately to the office and asked to be 
directed to the drug house of John Royall & Co. The 
hotel clerk gave the required information, and my legal 
friend promptly departed, determined to have all these 
suspicions speedily removed, consequently I was not sur- 
prised when I was requested, half an hour later, to meet 
Mr. Royall in the hotel office. An introduction to the 
proprietor by Mr. Royall was the next business in order. 
The hotel proprietor, soon after this introduction by 
Mr. Royall, took occasion to interview him privately. The 
result of this interview having proved entirely satisfactory 
to our host, a new and more pleasant relation with us was 
immediately inaugurated in the hotel. The proprietor and 
the guests no longer regarded us with either suspicion or 
anxiety. The former, however, remarked subsequently to 
Mr. Royall, with whom he was very well acquainted, that 



1 8 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

it did, at first, seem very strange that gentlemen would 
travel so far to shoot a few little birds ; and he had thought 
it much more probable that we were in the employ of the 
United States government for the purpose of hunting up 
moonshiners, who at the time were making much trouble 
in the Southern States. 

It may now assist some of my readers if I offer a slight 
explanation in regard to the cause of the excitement which 
we had so unintentionally produced. It should be first 
stated, in this connection, that neither the quail nor any 
other small birds are often hunted by gentlemen in that 
vicinity, but it does occasionally happen that some citizen is 
seen carrying a double-barrelled shot-gun for the purpose 
of takingf the life of a fellow-man, or with the intention of 
defending himself against those enemies who are supposed 
to be seeking his blood. An interesting instance of the 
latter was related to us while sojourning in Shelbyville. 
Our old classmate and friend not only righted matters for 
us at the hotel but joined in our field sports, introduced us 
to his friends, who vied with him in entertaining us, gave 
us grand dinners, and paid us many other attentions, which 
seems to be only a part of the true hospitality which per- 
vades the South. 

Like thfe other pleasant parts of our lives, our stay in 
Shelbyville had its end ; and having spent nearly two 
weeks with our new-made friends, we returned to our 
homes much improved in health, my legal friend being 
now able to sleep, while my own diabetic trouble had been 
much improved. 

The question may be properly asked, if we spent our 



7t 

I 



I 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 19 

time in the best possible manner. I am able to assert posi- 
tively that our time zvas spent most agreeably. The field 
sports were for us true recreation, but these splendid en- 
tertainments must be classed with the milder forms of 
dissipation. 



20 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



CHAPTER II. 

Three Doctors in Search of Sport — Our Guides — The Chief, and the Mag- 
net WHICH controlled HIM — TrOUT-FiSHING ON SUNDAY, AND THE RESULTS 
WHICH FOLLOWED A VIOLATION OF THE CANADIAN LaW — ChIEF JOHN IN 

Disgrace — Failure of his Plans. 




HE author desires to preface this narra- 
tive with the statement that nearly nine 
years have elapsed since these events 
transpired, and, inasmuch as no notes 
were taken at the time of the occur- 
rences, it may be necessary for the 
reader to make some allowance for want 
of accuracy in some of the minor details. 

Furthermore, inasmuch as my companions were exceed- 
ingly modest men, who might blush even at the sight of 
their printed names on these pages, we will designate the 
leader of our party as Governor, a title which well becomes 
the aristocratic dignity of this fine old gentleman. A fur- 
ther description of the Governor, as he appeared at the 
time of which we are now writing, may possess additional 
interest for our readers ; and therefore we will add that, 
although we have here spoken of him as an old gentleman, 
it is quite doubtful if he had then attained his sixtieth 
year. Nevertheless, his hair was already silvered with age, 
while his step was slow and slightly unsteady; figure erect; 
height about five feet ten inches ; possessed of a rather 
broad chest, while in other respects his form approximated 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OE CANADA. 2 1 

the aldepmanic ; complexion light ; face full well rounded, 
partially covered by side-whiskers, and showing- at various 
points enlivening reddish tints caused by a dilation of the 
capillary blood-vessels ; eyes moderately large, and of a 
grayish color ; while neither the nose, mouth, nor chin pos- 
sessed any marked peculiarities calling for a particular 
description. His manner of speech was slow and often 
hesitating, occasionally expressing his wishes and views by 
silence rather than words. He also maintained a dignified 
bearing under all circumstances, however trying the situa- 
tion, and was never known, even in the backwoods, to 
remove his high choker or spotless linen. He would not 
even drink tea or coffee from any other vessel than pure 
china, while a silver spoon, knife, and fork were absolutely 
essential to his happiness. It must already be apparent to 
our reader that the Governor possessed, in a very high 
degree, those important qualifications which so admirably 
fitted him for the performance of the manifold duties of an 
ambassador rather than those of a high general or an 
adventurous leader; consequently I am fully assured that 
no surprise will be felt when I assert that a further perusal 
of this chapter will establish the fact that it was in the per- 
formance of his ministerial duties that he won his chief 
laurels. 

The other members of this famous hunting-party occu- 
pied subordinate positions ; consequently no detailed de- 
scription will be given of them, although we shall hereafter 
speak of one as Esculapius and the other as Scribe ; while 
the name by which the former is commonly known among 
his friends might indicate to the uninitiated that his ancestry 



22 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

were originally inhabitants of Finland. It may, however, 
in this instance, be pardonable to say of Esculapius that 
his personal appearance, conversation, and movemeilts all 
declare to the world that he is a sturdy member of the 
medical profession, possessed of a strong belief of the 
propriety of enforcing the laws of self-preservation, while 
the frequency with which he discharged his gun when in 
the pursuit of game was certainly sufficient to satisfy his 
companions that he believed gunpowder was made to be 
burned ; but the effect of these shots having never been 
known, it must always remain an open question whether 
the game or game-seeker occupied the safer position. 

It was early in the month of September when this party 
took their departure from Jersey City by way of the Erie 
Railroad^ leaving behind them Gotham, with all its wicked, 
noisome, and enchanting surroundings. 

Nothing transpired worthy the attention of the Scribe 
until we reached the Canadian custom-house on the north 
side of the Niagara River. Here we met a fine old Irish 
gentleman, — Canadian custom-house officer, — who exam- 
ined our baggage, passed and properly marked the same, 
and then made himself known to us as a brother-sports- 
man possessing a lively interest in our prospective sports. 
I cannot with this brief notice pass so lightly by this mag- 
nificent specimen of the human family, with whom I had 
not previously met, although since that meeting I have had 
several opportunities to listen to his lively stories and enjoy 
his generous hospitality. I believe he is the son of a dis- 
tinguished major who at some former time commanded a 
Canadian fort in the vicinity of the Niagara Falls, having 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



23 



received his commission from the English government. 
The major's son, the present custom-house officer, stands 
fully six feet and three inches without boots ; is as straight 
as an arrow, well proportioned, and possessed of a military 
bearing; while, in addition to all this, he is prompt and 
courteous in the discharg-e of his official duties. Havine 
examined our baQrCTao;e on this occasion, he entered our car, 
where he remained in conversation with us nearly an hour, 
until our train was ready to proceed. In this conversation 
he imparted to us much practical information relating to 
the selection of guides, the Canadian localities in which we 
would be most likely to find game, etc. In answer to our 
inquiry in regard to the habits of the Indian guides, he 
replied, "They are generally lazy, filthy fellows, less desir- 
able as companions and servants than the native Canadian 
trappers and backwoodsmen." In support of these views 
here expressed he gave us a detailed statement of per- 
sonal observations made while in camp with some friends 
who had employed Indian guides. The old gentleman 
spoke particularly of an observation made by himself in 
the early morning, while the Indian guide was engaged in 
cleaning the frying-pan preparatory to cooking the break- 
fast for the hunters. In this instance, the weather being 
warm, the wardrobe for the body was limited to a single 
garment, which he now saw the " noble red man" using for 
the purpose of drying and cleansing the more important 
cooking utensil. In explanation of the garment, — size, 
texture, etc., — he added that it was a common towel which 
the hunters had brought with them for the purpose of dry- 
ing the hands of the guides while engaged in cooking, etc.. 



24 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

a refinement wholly incomprehensible to the Indian mind, 
and consequently it had been employed for a very different 
purpose. He also spoke of their long, unkempt hair, its 
numerous inhabitants, the effects produced by shaking and 
brushing it over food and blankets, with much of the same 
nature. During the narration of these somewhat impor- 
tant events I had watched carefully the deepening expres- 
sions on the Governor's face : dark clouds had gathered ; 
I could readily read " No red man need apply ;" while even 
the countenance of Esculapius was no less expressive ; but 
here I read " Death to the dirty dogs ; I have no sympathy 
with them," The Governor's feelings were certainly too 
deep to find expression in words at this time. He had 
remained entirely silent during the whole conversation. 
Esculapius had spoken only a few words, merely in mono- 
syllables ; he was apparently overwhelmed with the situa- 
tion. The old custom-house officer's face was now wreathed 
in smiles: he had put it forcibly, had watched carefully the 
effects of the narrative on these amateur sportsmen. As 
our train was now ready to start, he bade us good-by, 
wished us success and a pleasant time in Canada, and we 
were off for the woods. 

We proceeded from Niagara Falls immediately to To- 
ronto, remaining overnight at the Queen's Hotel. In the 
mean time the Governor telegraphed to various persons in 
different parts of the province of Ontario for guides, etc. 
Replies having been received, it was determined to start 
for Bracebridge some time during the following day, where 
we would meet guides who had already been selected for 
us through the efforts of the Governor. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 25 

In accordance with this decision we left Toronto in the 
afternoon, travelled by rail as far as the Muskoka wharf, 
which is situated on Lake Muskoka, and from this point by 
a small steamer, which reached Bracebrido-e about midnight. 
The instant the steamer touched its wharf at this point 
three guides came on board, sought out the Governor, held 
a brief interview with him, caught up our luggage and 
quickly passed from the boat to the shore, where they were 
completely enveloped in darkness, as there were no lights 
on the wharf and the steamboat was but dimly lighted. It 
was, therefore, difficult for us to follow these guides to the 
hotel where we had determined to spend the remainder 
of the niofht. The darkness was so intense that even 
after our eyes had become accustomed to the changed 
condition due to our passage from the badly-lighted boat to 
the absolutely unlighted streets of the frontier village, our 
guides, though preceding us only a few paces, were still 
completely invisible. It was during this trying period that 
the chief ingeniously came to our assistance by uttering 
from time to time shrill war-whoops, which at this moment 
recalled to the mind of the Scribe the doings and suffer- 
ings of the former inhabitants of this land, — the ancient 
Hurons. 

Having reached the hotel, we were conducted to the 
bar-room and office, which was dimly lighted with a single 
kerosene lamp. This light rendered visible the forms and 
faces of our guides, and consequently enabled us to form 
' our own ideas of the persons with whom we were expected 
to associate during the next few days. 

We now saw standing before us our three guides. The 



26 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

leader was a man of small stature, about thirty-five years 
of age, with an erect figure and rather active in his move- 
ments. This man, whose name would probably have been 
written " Bottcher" had he been unfortunate enough to be 
born in Germany, we will now designate as John. 

The chief guide was accompanied by a young brother, 
only seventeen years old, who was to go with us. This 
boy was small in figure, resembled somewhat his brother, 
and will hereafter on these pages be mentioned by the 
name of Frank. The third, a man standing about six feet 
without shoes, erect figure, well proportioned in every part 
of the body, with a glossy black face, curly black hair, flat 
nose, and projecting heels, was certainly the largest man in 
our party, and proved a very efficient and honest guide. 

We will christen this man "Jim," and let the reader be 
assured that although his skin was black he was in every 
other respect " white." During his stay with us we found 
him at all times faithful in the discharge of his duties and 
likewise strictly honorable, preferring to be discharged 
from our service rather than that we should be balked in 
our efforts to obtain sport. It was settled in this bar-room, 
prior to our retiring to our rooms for sleep, that we should 
start at an early hour the next morning for Baysville, a 
little hamlet situated on the south branch of the Muskoka 
River, near " Lake of Bays." This beautiful lake is sit- 
uated about fourteen miles northeast of Bracebrido^e and 
one mile from Baysville. 

The chief guide had strongly recommended this lake ; 
had spoken of it as the "sportsman's paradise"; and it 
afterwards was made plain to our minds that he, at least. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 27 

enjoyed some especial pleasures in this land, which for com- 
plete happiness did not, however, require the use of either 
gun or rod. 

We learned from our guides that we could reach our 
destination either by land or water : the canoes could be 
employed to transport us with our baggage through the 
south branch of the Muskoka River, but it would be more 
expeditious to take a wagon at Bracebridge, place the three 
canoes and other impedimenta in it, drive over the rough 
wood road to Baysville, and then take passage by the river 
to the lake. 

The next morning found our party, with the exception 
of the guides, fully prepared for the start at an early hour. 
The latter were now busy in gathering in the canoes, pro- 
visions, etc. It was probably about eleven o'clock when 
we left the hotel. The day was pleasant, the sun shone 
brightly ; the almost continuous cries of the blue jay were 
the only sounds emanating from the forest. The country 
traversed was very hilly ; large rocks were found in the 
wood road ; deep ravines were spanned by stilted corduroy 
bridges, which swayed from side to side as our wagon 
passed over them. Furthermore, as if to add to the ex- 
citement of the journey, one of the horses in the team 
which had been hired for this occasion was both vicious and 
balky, and seemed to enjoy kicking even better than eating. 
The Governor, whose peculiarities have already been men- 
tioned, seemed greatly to prefer walking to riding this day, 
a fact that may be partially explained by informing the 
reader that the only seat provided in the wagon was in 
close proximity to the vicious heels, which were handled 



28 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

with great dexterity. The day passed on ; many halts were 
made to rest the team, and during one of these the Scribe 
went a short distance into the woods, where he shot a pair 
of wild pigeons and soon returned with them to the wagon. 
We reached Baysville about one hour before sunset: the 
canoes were promptly placed in the water and found to be 
leaking badly ; but there was now no time for repairs, for 
we were anxious to reach our destination as soon as pos- 
sible in order to make ready for spending the night on a 
point of land near where the river comes to the lake. 
I have already said that the canoes were leaking badly, 
but this gives the reader an entirely inadequate idea of 
their true condition. They were certainly unfit for service, 
— old, broken, rotten birch structures. The guides pro- 
portioned the luggage to the supposed carrying capacity 
of the frail barks : guns, dogs, rods, and blankets were 
placed in position, and then we were told to seat ourselves, 
each in the stern and on the bottom of the canoe which 
had been previously assigned to us. It should be under- 
stood that each gentleman in the party was provided with 
a separate canoe, which was managed by an individual 
guide. Frank had charge of the vessel carrying the Gov- 
ernor, Jim was with Esculapius, and John paddled for the 
Scribe. 

Prior to taking our departure from Baysville each gen- 
tleman in the party had been provided with a dish for the 
purpose of dipping out the water which found its way into 
these leaky vessels. It was found, however, impossible to 
keep them afloat more than a few moments at any time 
even by the most energetic action on our part. The 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



29 



guides, therefore, kept close in to the river-bank, and when 
it became apparent that a canoe would soon sink it was 
quickly paddled to the shore, drawn upon the dry land and 
the water emptied out. Let the kind reader now imagine 
himself seated in such a craft as I have just described, 
under the same circumstances, and I think he will fully 
excuse me if I say nothing about the condition of our 
clothing, etc. 




• Say nothing about the condition of our clothing." 



During this short journey from Baysville to the lake our 
sturdy friend Esculapius completely lost his patience, and 
pitched a poor little water-spaniel off the canoe into the 
water. This was a doo; that the sfuides had borrowed for 
us at Bracebridge, that we might at least have some canine 
company while hunting partridges. The poor dog did not 
have much reputation as an assistant in hunting, but I 
really think he must have possessed a great deal of dignity, 
inasmuch as he never showed himself in our presence 
again. 

Esculapius was very frequently reminded of this sad 



30 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

event while we were in the woods, but his spirited reply 
was that he could not allow his own life to be jeopardized 
by any dog. The Governor remained silent during most 
of this journey, but his countenance expressed disgust, and 
we do not believe he has yet sufficiently recovered to speak 
patiently of these occurrences. 

In due time we arrived at the designated spot where we 
were to spend the night. We saw now a small clearing, 
possibly about two acres of meadow-land, and in the clear- 
ing there had been erected, near the lake-shore, a small 
frame barn. Prior to our arrival the grass growing on this 
field had been cut and gathered into this building, prepared 
for its reception. The sun was still shining; an enchant- 
ing view was spread out before us. Here were the clear 
waters of an inland lake, probably about ten miles in 
length, and varying in width from one-half to nearly three 
miles, surrounded with hills which were covered with virgin 
forest; while as yet there were only two or three small 
clearings visible to us from the point where we had halted 
for the night. The lake-shore at this point was sandy, 
wood convenient, and all of the essential conditions for a 
pleasant camp. The entire party, including guides, were 
not slow to leave their bath-tubs, — so-called birch-bark 
canoes, — and no regrets were expressed that we were once 
more on land. The luggage was quickly removed and 
placed in such a position as to favor drying, a process 
which was still further aided by starting a fire. The tent 
with which our party was provided, a fine commodious one, 
was finally erected after a protest on the part of our chief 
guide, who declared that it was entirely unnecessary, as we 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. :»i 

could sleep so nicely on the fresh hay in the barn. The 
proposition to sleep in the barn was opposed by the Scribe, 
an old soldier, who expressed a decided preference for a 
bed of balsam boughs beneath the clean canvas ; but the 
Governor and Esculapius favored the proposition made by 
John, who was supposed by them to know very well what 
was best for us under these circumstances ; therefore the 
tent was employed, while we remained at this point, only 
as a baggage- and mess-room. The tent having been 
erected and a fire built, the labor next in order was the 
preparation, by the guides, of the evening meal, which 
consisted of broiled ham, broiled pigeon, bread, butter, and 
tea. 

The labors of the day had prepared us for the full 
enjoyment of this meal, which was followed by the free use 
of clears, which we had brouo-ht with us. We sat about 
the camp-fire, smoking and chatting, for several hours after 
the darkness had gathered in about us. 

The guides, having gathered wood for the camp-fire, 
and performed such other duties as were required of them 
for the time being, with our consent crossed the lake in 
their canoes, for the purpose of visiting a family living in 
a log cabin distant from our camp about two miles. We 
subsequently discovered that the principal attraction for 
our oruides in this cabin was its fair and rather famous 
hostess, who seemed to be equally appreciated by the chief 
and his colored companion, Jim. It was about nine o'clock 
when the Governor, Esculapius, and the Scribe entered the 
barn, spread their blankets on the hay, and sought refresh- 
ment in sleep. Towards morning their slumbers were 



32 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



rudely disturbed by the entrance of the guides, who were 
talking and laughing joyfully, being in no manner re- 
strained in their merriment by the presence of those whom 
they had engaged to serve. Blankets were entirely dis- 
carded by them ; they threw themselves down on the hay 
without removing any portion of their wardrobes. The 
Governor and his companions now discovered that the hay 
on which they were reposing was not quite squal to a 
spring-bed covered with a hair-mattress. Deep holes had 
formed at various points beneath them ; they had slipped 
from their blankets, on which they had intended to repose ; 
their hair and clothing had become filled with hay-seed, 
etc. ; and the advantages of the barn, which had been so 
glowingly described to them by Chief John, were not fully 
realized. The Governor never winced under these pecu- 
liarly trying circumstances, a fact that has always been 
regarded by the Scribe as a marvellous manifestation of 
patience and fortitude on the part of one wholly unaccus- 
tomed to hardships. Esculapius came to the front in the 
morning smiling and happy. He evidently cared but little 
for the trifling annoyance arising from hay-seed and the 
irregular surface of the bed on which he had attempted to 
sleep ; it had not endangered his life ; it could not be com- 
pared with the danger that had threatened his life on the 
preceding day, when he had so cheerfully parted company 
with the little dog. The Scribe was not pleased with these 
sleeping accommodations ; knew that they might be im- 
proved ; but then there was some consolation in the 
thouofht that he had suffered much less in this situation 
than the Governor. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OE CANADA. 33 

Our arrival at the camp had taken place on Saturday 
evening, and consequently our first breakfast was partaken 
of on Sunday morning, while we were seated around the 
camp-fire at about nine o'clock. This meal had been 
prompdy prepared by our guides as their first duty in the 
morning, but the next thing in order was the pitching of 
their leaky canoes, — a labor that engaged their attention 
about two hours. 

Scarcely had this work been completed when the loud 
baying of the hound — the only dog now remaining with 
the party — was heard in the swamp not far distant from 
our camp. This hound had been extravagantly praised 
by Chief John, the owner, during our short acquaintance 
with him, but I think every other person in the party was 
inclined to look on him as a worthless animal. The chief 
now shouted to us joyfully, "Hear the music; get your 
guns ; my hound is running a deer. I wish to station you 
on the run-ways coming into the lake." His orders were 
obeyed with alacrity ; we were stationed ; all were joyful ; 
but it was soon apparent from the sounds emitted by the 
hound that he was running in small circles, neither leaving 
nor approaching the lake, and could not, therefore, be 
chasing a deer, which never runs in this manner, but was 
unquestionably running a rabbit. The chief guide called 
us away from the run-ways, after having kept us there 
about an hour. While standing around the camp-fire im- 
mediately after our return from the rdn-ways, Jim said to 
Chief John, " Your dog was chasing a rabbit and not a 
deer." The chief replied, " I have never known him to do 
so before." It was, however, subsequently admitted by the 

3 



34 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



owner that the dog had never been trained ; had never 
been tried in the forest on any game ; and permit me to 
say that many subsequent trials demonstrated to us his 
entire worthlessness. He could not be made to run a 
deer. The further doings of the day consisted in the 
taking of a three-pound speckled trout and the shooting 
of two wood-ducks by the Scribe. The taking of this 
beautiful fish came near causing us serious trouble, in con- 
sequence of its having been reported to the fish-warden, 
who followed us several miles down the lake to a new 
camp, where he was persuaded by the cautious, able, and 
accomplished ambassador, the Governor, to compromise 
the whole case, thus possibly avoiding international com- 
plications. It was an undeniable fact that the fish had been 
caught on Sunday, in violation of the Canadian laws. This 
law makes no allowance in favor of the hungry foreign 
sportsman. There was shot, by Esculapius, during the 
same day a ruffed grouse, which had come into our camp 
apparently for the purpose of taking a survey of camp- 
luggage, etc. I am not absolutely certain that this feat 
was performed by Esculapius ; the Governor may possibly 
have had some hand in it, but I believe that Esculapius 
claimed the honor. Sunday night was spent by the whole 
party in the same manner as Saturday night. We again 
attempted to sleep on the hay ; the guides again visited 
their fair hostess, and returned to us at a late hour ap- 
parently very happy. The next morning we were stirring 
early, — had been promised by Chief John that he would 
this day lead us into the sportsman's paradise. In answer 
to our inquiries he said, " This promised land is situated 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 35 

only about six miles from here, and there you will find an 
abundance of deer, fowl, and trout." The Governor, who 
is an expert fisherman, throws the fly most skilfully, and 
at the same time with charming grace, was highly delighted 
with the glowing description to which he had listened, and, 
therefore, took his departure from the barn in anticipation 
of the great pleasure just about to be realized. The 
morning meal had been made ready and ample justice 
done to the viands placed before us. The luggage be- 
longing to the party was closely packed and stowed away 
in the canoes. The chief had taken the Governor into his 
canoe for the trip down the lake, Frank had charge of 
Esculapius, and Jim paddled for the Scribe. This arrange- 
ment, I think, had been effected by the chief guide, who 
probably thought it necessary that he should now impress 
the Governor with his own importance and skill in order 
that the leader of our hunting-party might be made a firm 
supporter of all his plans. This arrangement for our 
journey afforded the Scribe an opportunity to question our 
colored o-uide in regard to the best localities on the lake 
for fishing and hunting. He had previously observed that 
Jim was not well at ease while John was describing the 
advantages for sport of the spot towards which we were 
now steering our frail barks. Jim approached the subject 
with, apparently, a full appreciation of the duty which he 
owed to our party and likewise to his superior, John. He 
had allowed a few careless remarks to fall from his lips 
while standing about our camp-fire. I now plied him with 
questions, which he finally answered with frankness. He 
said, in substance, " You will find no game of any sort that 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



you will be willing to shoot or hook anywhere near the 
point to which he is conducting you." I then asked, " What 
object has John in deceiving us in this matter?" The reply 
was given after a little hesitation, but without any marked 
effort at evasion. I cannot attempt to recall Jim's words, 
but they were, in effect, as follows : "John is a widower; he 
lost his first wife some years ago ; he wishes to remarry, 
and is courting a girl who lives with her parents in the 
bush about one mile from the unoccupied shanty to which 
he is now conducting you. He wishes to spend much of 
his time in the company of this girl. He thinks you are 
green, and that he can fool you into staying there while he 
is courting at your expense. I would like to see you have 
good sport, but you will find none there." This statement 
was made with a certain degree of confidence to me, and 
I quickly determined to make no use of it at present, but 
to wait until it had been verified by our own experience. 
Only a few days at most would be required for this pur- 
pose. 

Our canoe was now passing the mouth of Watte's 
Creek. Jim remarked to me that this creek afforded the 
best trout-fishing on the lake. " I am not a professional 
guide," he said, " but am acquainted with every person living 
on this lake ; have worked as a wood-chopper a great deal 
about here ; all these people fish and hunt more or less, and 
I have frequently fished and hunted with them." I inquired 
still further about Watte's Creek as a fishing locality. Jim 
said he thought there might be some ducks and pigeons in 
that vicinity, likewise adding that he would like to remain 
there one day with me ; thought I might kill a considerable 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. -^7 

number of ducks if I could shoot them on the winof. I 
preferred, however, to continue on in company with the 
Governor and Esculapius, thinking that I might now be 
of some service to them, and was determined that neither 
John nor the girl in the bush should prevent us from se- 
curing some sport on the lake. In due time we reached 
the lake-shore in front of the shanty in which John's inamo- 
rata resided ; the canoes were soon drawn on the dry land, 
and the chief proudly led us into the log structure which 
contained the fair damsel whose magnetic influence over 
our guide seemed to betoken nothing but disappointment 
and vexation for us. The maiden's mother was at this 
moment the only occupant of the little room to which John 
had conducted us. She received us kindly, invited us to 
be seated, and we all complied with this invitation, includ- 
ing even our guides, with the exception of our wily chief, 
who left the room in search of his fair lady, whom he 
unquestionably soon discovered, guided by that unerring 
influence that we have already mentioned. It was now 
about two o'clock; we partook of a lunch in this shanty, 
the hostess contributing to it bread and milk; our party 
were now refreshed and ready for new triumphs. The 
Governor asked to be conducted to the fishing-grounds. 
Frank was directed to accompany him, John having given 
his brother the necessary instructions for finding the place. 

The Governor has made a selection of flies for use 
this afternoon from the book in which he carries a large 
supply. He has likewise examined his beautiful rod, 
and finally declared himself fully prepared for pleasure. 
His face is wreathed in a pleasant smile, his heart is 



38 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

beating joyously in anticipation of coming events. He has 
started for the famous trout stream so vividly described to 
him by John as one of the tributaries of this lake. Escu- 
lapius and the Scribe now hold a brief consultation with 
John for the purpose of determining what shall be done 
by the rest of the party during the afternoon. John thinks 
it would be just as well to rest until morning and then take 
a fresh start. This did not suit the party, and it was finally 
proposed that Jim should take the luggage in a canoe, go 
to the unoccupied shanty, situated about a mile from this 
point, and prepare the same for our occupation. Neither 
the Governor nor Esculapius are yet willing to sleep under 
canvas if it can be avoided. Jim is promptly off for the 
performance of the duty assigned to him. John is to guide 
Esculapius and the Scribe through the woods in search of 
partridge. We have selected our shells, donned our hunt- 
ing-coats, and with our guns in hand are ready to be off 
at the word from John, who left us only a few moments 
ago, possibly to give a parting salute to the magnet which 
now controlled him. After an absence of fifteen or twenty 
minutes he returned to us and declared his readiness to 
lead us. We started into the woods, he leading at a very 
rapid pace, while we followed as rapidly as possible. It 
required only a few moments for him to distance us. We 
called to him to wait ; he halted, but only permitted us to 
approach within easy speaking distance before he was off 
again, this time on a slow trot. We called to him once 
more; this time he allowed us to approach somewhat nearer 
to him, but showed much uneasiness ; was apparently just 
ready to be off again when we checked these indications 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 3^ 

by a united request for a rest. We now took seats on a 
log ; were bathed in perspiration and blowing like a wind- 
broken horse. We ventured to remonstrate with him for 
travelling so rapidly ; suggested that he had kept so far 
ahead of us that had he discovered game, as he was not 
provided with a gun, the birds would in all probability have 
escaped before a shot could be fired. He told us that he 
was a very fast traveller ; was not walking this afternoon 
as rapidly as usual, but would try to moderate his pace to 
suit us. We soon started again ; he travelled now faster 
than before. We walked and ran in our efforts to keep up 
to him, but found it impossible. This chase was continued 
about three hours, when we halted in front of the log cabin 
which he intended we should occupy during the night. 
This tramp was one long to be remembered, and suffi- 
ciently severe to deter any one from entering the woods 
for the purpose of hunting, if he believed such exercise was 
required, but we knew it to be unnecessary and inconsistent 
with any success. The Governor arrived in front of the 
cabin a few moments after we reached it. His face was 
bathed in perspiration, almost livid with rage, and he di- 
rected his eyes towards John, who had just seated himself 
on a log near the cabin door. John probably felt the force 
of this piercing look, as he meekly inquired, " Did you find 
the stream which I described to you?" We found the dry 
bed of a mountain stream, but I don't believe there ever 
was water enough in it to cover a three-pound trout, except 
during the early spring when the snow is melting. Our 
whole party was tired, disappointed, and disgusted with the 
conduct of John. The colored guide, Jim, had opened the 



40 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



door of the cabin and found it contained a large quantity 
of odoriferous, mouldering hay, which had been left be- 
hind by the last occupants, who had vacated it about nine 
months before our arrival. The entire cabin consisted of 
a single room, which was probably about twelve feet square 
and lighted by a single pane of glass. This diminutive 
window could not be readily opened or removed. It was 
still closed when Esculapius, who had entered the room, 
quickly retired, declaring that the stench arising from the 
decomposition was unendurable. 

He directed that the hay should be removed, the small 
window forced open ; all of which was promptly done by 
Jim and Frank, while John was resting on the log, where 
he had seated himself on his arrival before the cabin. Let 
it suffice to say that after improving the atmospheric con- 
dition of the cabin as much as practicable, the Governor 
and Esculapius determined to occupy it as their sleeping- 
apartment during the night, while the Scribe preferred to 
remain outside, sleeping on the. ground with no other pro- 
tection than that afforded by the pure air and a cloudless 
sky. The guides had withdrawn from us during the early 
part of the evening, returning to the cabin containing 
John's enchantress. 




^::^P^ ' 



>-^-^spiJ>^. 







OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



41 



CHAPTER III. 

Grand Fishing Excursion — Watte's Creek visited by the Governor and 
EscuLAPius — Their Return and Reception at Camp — Grand Deer-Hunt, 
led by Dr. Pokorney — Chief John and his Assistants are relieved from 
Duty and go to the Rear in Disgrace — Dr. Pokorney and other As- 
sistants. 





T was about four o'clock in the mornine 
when the Governor emerged from his 
unsavory sleeping-apartment with a hag- 
gard face and despondent heart. I had 
slept soundly during the greater part of 
the night ; was now greatly refreshed and ready 
to engage with him in conversation. The Gov- 
ernor, when he discovered that I was awake, 
remarked, " I have never spent a more miserable 
night ; the atmosphere of the cabin is stifling. I 
am sick this mornine. I think we had better 



start for home ; I have had enough of thi 



is 



sort of sport." I then revealed to him the 
fact that had been confided to me by Jim. I 
spoke to him of the fine trout-fishing which 
:- could be had in Watte's Creek. He seemed, 
at first, somewhat incredulous in regard to 
the statements made to me on the previous 
"^ day by Jim, but finally the real motives 



42 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

controlling the acts of the chief guide became apparent to" 
him. I had suggested that the Governor and Esculapius, 
with Jim and Frank, start immediately for Watte's Creek ; 
that I remain behind with John ; that during the absence 
of my friends I would, with the assistance of John, put up 
the tent, make all necessary arrangements for their com- 
fort and a deer-hunt, which should follow promptly after 
their return. It required considerable urging on my part 
to bring this part of my programme into force, but soon 
after daylight Esculapius came from the cabin ; he too 
was sick, — was discouraged, but when I had explained 
our present intentions, and all the facts connected with 
the same, he readily consented to its adoption. In the 
.mean time the guides having arrived, breakfast has been 
eaten, the Governor and Esculapius, with the guides, Jim 
and Frank, are off for the fishing-ground. John remains 
behind with me. He seems tired, is ill-natured ; declares 
that neither the Governor nor Esculapius will find any 
sport at Watte's Creek. 

It was after considerable urging that I succeeded in 
getting him to take hold with me and put up the tent ; but 
this was finally accomplished, and then the balsam boughs 
were arranged in true Adirondack style. The bed and 
tent were all that a sportsman could wish. I once more 
requested John to lead me in the woods. He was a little 
slow in getting off and very slow after he had got off. 
During a short ramble in the woods to-day I shot a par- 
tridge and a very large porcupine. The following night I 
was alone in camp, — John had gone to the same cabin 
where he had spent the last night, and was not seen again 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



43 



until the next morning. The night was passed in refresh- 
ing slumber ; the weather had been delightful since we left 
Bracebridge, — no rain. The following day was spent about 
camp. John now admitted to me that his hound was 
worthless and would not run deer. Jim had previously- 
informed me that there was an excellent deer-hunter livine 
on the lake-shore, about three miles from our camp. He 
also said that this man owned an excellent deer-hound and 
would be very glad to give us some sport. Soon after 
John entered the camp I engaged him in a conversation 
relating to our proposed deer-hunt. He was not so ill- 
natured this morning as he had been during the past two 
days, and said, frankly, " My dog is worthless ; we can't 
hunt deer without a good dog. I know of only one about 
this lake, and that is owned by an old Polander, who lives 
three miles from here." I then asked, " Can you not hire 
this dog a few days?" John replied, "No; the old doctor 
is very poor, has a large family, and supports them by 
hunting; the dog is so necessary to him that he will not 
allow it to go out of his sight ; but he is friendly with me, 
and I think he will join us in a deer-hunt if we give him 
about three dollars a day. This would secure for us the 
use of the best deer-hound on this lake." I replied, "Let 
us employ him immediately." This conversation occurred 
while John was busied with the preparation for breakfast, 
and when the meal had been eaten and the odd jobs about 
the camp performed to my satisfaction I urged John to go 
in search of the old deer-hunter. Dr. Pokorney, and bring 
him to me. John was now perfectly willing to aid me in 
arranmn^ for a deer-hunt ; he was evidendy in better 



44 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



spirits that morning than he had been at any time since 
we left the camp near the barn. The attempt to deceive 
us and bring us into quiet subjection had completely failed. 
He fully realized at this moment that his original plan had 
completely miscarried, and had recovered from the shock 
arising from this disappointment. I walked to the lake 
with John when he started out to find Dr. Pokorney. 

He placed the litde bark in the water, stepped lightly 
into it, assumed a position on his knees, — the one which 
is always taken by the Indian or backwoodsman who is to 
paddle the canoe, — and was off with a light heart. After 
an absence of three or four hours he returned to me with 
the joyful intelligence that the old deer-hunter would be 
with us in our camp within a few hours. He had found 
him at his cabin, busied in stopping, with wood and mud, 
the holes existing between the logs, which, in the summer, 
were not objectionable, but which must be carefully closed 
before the approach of the cold Canadian winter. In 
accordance with the promise which the deer-hunter had 
made to John, he was in our camp before three o'clock in 
the afternoon. The object which had prompted me to seek 
this interview was immediately stated to him. He replied, 
'T am entirely at your service." I then informed him that 
I had two companions who were now temporarily absent, 
but who, I thought, would rejoin me in the evening and be 
ready to participate with us in the hunt the next day. He 
said, " I learned these facts from John to-day, and I will be 
here to-morrow morning at six o'clock to start the hunt." 

The intelligence shown by Dr. Pokorney in this conver- 
sation had greatly surprised me. John had spoken of him 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 45 

as "a doctor," but I had only thought of him in connection 
with this title as an ignorant quack. I now found myself in 
the presence of a well-educated gentleman, who was also 
evidently familiar with the rules governing polite society. 
He conversed with me in the English language, but I soon 
learned that he could also speak both German and French. 
You can, therefore, well imagine my surprise : here was 
a gentleman possessed of an excellent education — a pro- 
fessional man — living in a cold, rocky, sterile country, with 
no congenial associates, while the few other settlers on this 
lake could only be classed with ignorant adventurers, some 
of whom freely admitted that they left the front in order 
to avoid confinement in prisons. The doctor seemed to 
be about fifty years of age, was thinly clad, stooped con- 
siderably, while his shoulders drooped, and there were 
likewise observed other evidences of continued hardships 
and scanty nourishment. He was tall and gaunt, stood, 
probably, about six feet in his boots, sunken gray eyes, 
heavy eyebrows, light complexion, iron-gray hair, and 
heavy moustache. The mystery of the man's life is still 
unknown to me. He was certainly an enthusiastic hunter, 
and may he not have parted with the pleasures of civiliza- 
tion for the purpose of enjoying the wild pleasures of the 
forest ? I cannot answer this question. We found him 
there on the "Free Grant Lands," working hard to support 
a large family, scarcely able to put bread in their mouths, 
staggering under the heavy burden imposed on him, and 
with very little hope for a better condidon on earth. 

The first meeting with Dr. Pokorney was a great sur- 
prise to me. It is true, I had expected to meet this well- 



46 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

known deer-hunter, but I had not expected to meet such 
a man. He remained with me in camp, I think, about two 
or three hours, and then returned to the place that he 
called home. The Governor and Esculapius, in accordance 
with my expectations, returned to our camp this evening. 
The tent is now in perfect order; the fragrant balsamic 
odor which pervades it proclaims the presence of a couch 
worthy to receive the body of a. king. The camp-fire 
burned brighdy a few feet in front of it and lighted up 
everything about it. The necessary amount of wood has 
been gathered in and piled near at hand, so that this beau- 
tiful fire, which is the charming source of light, may be 
continued all night if desired by the campers. Our camp 
is situated near the lake-shore. It was about nine o'clock 
when we heard the merry sound of approaching voices. 
Listen one moment: Jim is singing, and that sounds like 
the Governor's happy laugh. Esculapius has discovered 
pur camp-fire ; hear his joyful shout, " Hallo there !" 
Both John and I are on our feet, peering out on the lake, 
— it is a calm night ; it is moonlight, — we can barely make 
out in the distance the two little canoes which are ap- 
proaching our camp. We shout back to our friends; shout 
answers shout ; and they quickly touch the shore at our 
feet. Behold the beautiful sight: there lay in the bottom 
of these canoes not less than forty speckled beauties, not 
one of which weighed less than one pound, and many 
weighed four. We greeted each other with a hearty hand- 
shaking. The Governor recounted to me the same even- 
ing the pleasures of this trip, and I now participated with 
him in the enjoyment he had felt while catching these fish. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 47 

He is an enthusiastic fisherman, but cares little for shoot- 
ing. Esculaplus seemed to be perfectly satisfied with the 
part which he had taken in this little excursion ; admitted 
that he had fired a crreat number of shots at ducks and 
pigeons, but showed us no game. 

The tent now presented to the Governor and Escu- 
lapius an attractive appearance, and they entered it without 
uttering a single demurrer. We all slept soundly under 
the canvas, inhaled the pure atmosphere of the forest, and 
awoke early in the morning with renewed energies and 
pleasant forebodings for the day. 

The deer-hunter, Dr. Pokorney, reached our camp 
about six o'clock that morning; was immediately introduced 
to the Governor and Esculapius. He seemed this morn- 
ing to be in excellent spirits. The Governor exhibited to 
him some of the speckled beauties with much apparent 
satisfaction. 

The guides soon announced that breakfast was ready^ 
and it did not take many minutes for our whole party to 
arrange themselves in a semicircle on the ground around 
the spot where it had been decided to place the meal. A 
rubber poncho had been placed on the ground, and it was 
on this small blanket that the cups containing the smoking 
hot coffee and the plates laden with the fried fish and boiled 
potatoes were placed. 

The whole party, including Dr. Pokorney, ate heartily, 
and every one, including John, seemed well pleased. The 
breakfast is ended, and the Governor, who is provided with 
pipes and tobacco, brings out his entire stock. There is 
now placed before our new-made friend, Dr. Pokorney, 



48 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 




Swallowing fish and fish-stories. 



at least a half-dozen fresh brier-wood pipes and several 
pounds of tobacco. He is invited to make a selection and 
proceed to the next order of business, which is smoking. 
He, being able to decide with promptness on all such mat- 
ters, was soon afterwards seen in the full enjoyment of 
his pipe. Esculapius had followed suit, but the Scribe was 
so unfortunate as to be unable to join them in this pleasant 
pastime. The Governor having supplied the wants of the 
party, now drew from an inside pocket of his coat a case 
containing a beautifully colored meerschaum pipe, which he 
leisurely proceeded to fill, and afterwards quietly smoked. 

A heavy white frost covered every bush and exposed 
surface of earth or rock. However, there is only a light 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 49 

breeze, and, therefore, the lake is comparatively smooth. 
It is a orand morninof for a deer-hunt: the bucks are 
moving in such weather at this season of the year. It 
was nearly nine o'clock before our party was ready to 
embark in their canoes for that portion of the lake where 
it had been decided that the deer-hunt should take place. 
The locality of the hunt had been chosen by Dr. Pokor- 
ney, although some suggestions had been made by John. 
These suggestions had been entirely ignored by the old 
deer-hunter, who did not seem to think them worthy of 
his consideration. He, however, did inform us that the 
locality was chosen with due regard to the wind and other 
factors involved in the practical solution of the question. 
When we started from the shore in front of our camp 
Dr. Pokorney was in his own canoe, accompanied by his 
deer-hound ; the Governor followed in a canoe with John ; 
Esculapius was accompanied by Jim, while Frank was 
paddling for me. These old, leaky canoes, which I have 
previously described, have been somewhat improved, it is 
true, by the pitch that has been employed to stop the 
leaks, but we are still compelled to use, very frequendy, 
the dishes to keep the water to a point consistent with our 
own safety, while we are still obliged to sit in a cold-water 
bath. I have observed that Dr. Pokorney's birch-bark 
canoe is nearly new and does not leak, while by a graceful 
and apparently easy use of the paddle it shoots over the 
water with great rapidity. The comparison of the old 
hunter's canoe with those which John has supplied for our 
use is not well calculated to make us feel contented while 
quiedy seated in cold water. Let us, however, dismiss 

4 



50 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



from our minds, for the present, these unpleasant thoughts^ 
and aeain resume the details of the deer-hunt. Dr. Po- 
korney took the lead in his canoe at the start, and paddled 
away from the camp about three miles, having kept in 
advance all this time before he stationed the Governor at 
a run-way where it came to the lake. The point which 
the Governor was to watch having been selected by the 
deer-hunter, John immediately brought his canoe to the 
shore, when both parties occupying it stepped to the dry 
land, while the guide promptly removed the water which 
it contained. Dr. Pokorney beckoned to the occupants 
of the other canoes to follow him, which they continued to 
do. He now proceeded on about one-half mile farther, 
where he stationed the Scribe and Frank, and about one 
mile from them he placed Esculapius with the colored 
guide. Our whole party were now stationed, and every- 
thing was in readiness to start the hound which was ex- 
pected to drive the deer into the lake. This animal had 
remained in the canoe with its master since we left our 
camp in the morning, and as soon as our party were 
properly stationed the old deer-hunter paddled back near 
to the spot where he had left the Scribe, in full view of 
whom he drew his bark canoe on the shore. The dosf 
immediately leaped from the frail bark and began to run 
playfully around his master's feet, looking anxiously up to 
his face. Dr. Pokorney spoke kindly to the animal, petted 
her a moment, and then bade her to bring a deer. She 
started immediately, ran off a few rods and then halted, 
as if to receive further instructions, turned partially around, 
and a^rain o-azed into her master's face. He ao^ain uro-ed 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 51 

her on, and pointed at the same time in the direction which 
he desired her to take. She now leaped forward into the 
woods, giving at the same moment a single yelp, and was 
lost to our vision. Nothing more was heard from her until 
after the lapse of nearly an hour, when we again faintly 
heard the music of her voice. Nearer, still nearer, are 
these sounds; clearer, still clearer, are they heard by us on 
the lake. Listen, her voice is now becoming fainter : she is 
evidently leaving the lake ; the deer which she is running 
has turned back: he is making a circle. "Never mind," 
remarked the old hunter, "she will run him so sharply that 
he will certainly come to water ; you will hear her voice 
again soon." Scarcely half an hour had elapsed when 
we again heard her voice ; faint at first, but more and more 
and more distinct every succeeding moment. Onward she 
steadily went ; she was almost at the lake. A splash was 
heard on our right, a few seconds later one was heard on 
our left; Frank whispered, "Take your place in the canoe." 
He pushed the little bark from the sand to the water, and 
I promptly seated myself in the bow. Frank paddled 
noiselessly out into the lake, while we scanned the water 
both to the right and left. After the lapse of a few mo- 
ments we discovered a buck's head, which was held above 
the water on our right. The animal was swimming away 
from the shore and towards the middle of the lake. He 
had not yet discovered us, and we desired to place our 
canoe between the swimmine deer and the lake-shore in 
order to prevent him from returning to the woods before 
we could get sufficiently near to take a shot. Frank now 
allowed our canoe to float quietly ; the deer was still 



52 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



makinof towards the centre of the lake. We waited 
patiently ; the deer was now a half-mile from the shore 
where he had entered the water. The lake at this point 
is about two miles in width. We were now ready for the 
chase ; we can cut him off from the shore where he 
entered and kill him before he can cross the lake. Frank 
handed me a spare paddle which he had in readiness in 
the canoe. The bark is headed, and we both pull away 
with all our mig-ht. The deer has discovered us : behold his 
frantic efforts. 

He has turned his head towards the shore and is 
making his greatest efforts to avoid this new danger ; he 
has evaded the dog when he reached the water, but the 
chase has been taken up by a more dangerous enemy. 




" He has evaded the dog, but- 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 53 

He is now completely foiled : the canoe has come between 
him and the shore where he entered ; he turns once more 
his head towards the centre of the lake. He has made his 
last great effort ; his doom is sealed. The Scribe has 
dropped his paddle into the bottom of the canoe and picked 
up his gun. Frank pulled steadily towards the deer and 
gained rapidly. A few moments later a white puff of 
smoke arose over the canoe ; the deer dropped his head 
and floated motionless in the water, while the sound of the 
discharge of the gun in the hands of the Scribe echoed 
around the lake. Scarcely had the reverberations died 
away when another shot was heard on our right ; still 
another: the Governor was at work. He, too, had killed a 
deer, while we afterwards learned that the third had run 
the shore in front of Esculapius, but he was too much sur- 
prised to even fire a shot at this animal. The canoes now 
came together on the lake ; we greeted each other warmly ; 
everybody was happy once more. 

It was now about two o'clock in the afternoon, and we 
quickly decided to go to our camp. The day had been 
passed very pleasantly by us and we had been rewarded 
with success. I have hunted very frequently since that day, 
but have never seen three deer driven to water by a single 
doe in a single run since that time. We continued to hunt 
deer several days — a week or more — with Dr. Pokorney 
and his wonderful doe. This animal continued to manifest 
the same intelligence ; was sent into the woods in the same 
manner each day by her master, and rarely failed to bring 
a deer to the water. This dog would probably not attract 
much attention at a bench show, although I have never 



54 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



seen her equal in the field. She was a dark liver-and-white 
female hound, called by her master " Fan ;" he did not 
know or even care anything about her pedigree. This 
grand animal was rather large when compared with the 
deer-hounds that I have been accustomed to see, and also 
unusually long and lank ; possessed of pleasant, sunken 
eyes. She, like her master, was accustomed to work, and 
certainly was not overfed. Having reached our camp, the 
deer-hunter set to work and quickly dressed both deer, 
which were left hanging out of the reach of the dogs. The 
other guides gathered the wood and prepared the even- 
ing meal, which we will designate as our dinner, inasmuch 
as we had not partaken of food since the early morning. 
Our repast consisted of trout, venison, coffee, etc., and it is 
scarcely necessary to say that it was thoroughly enjoyed by 
our whole party. Having completed the meal, and while 
the Governor, Esculapius, and Dr. Pokorney were smoking 
their pipes, the question was raised, What shall we do to- 
morrow ? Another deer-hunt was finally determined on, 
in which Dr. Pokorney and his faithful dog Fan were to 
participate. John now excused himself, and hastened 
away to report the day's proceedings to his inamorata, while 
the old deer-hunter remained with us until the sun had dis- 
appeared behind the western hills, when he bade us good- 
eveninof and started for his cabin. 

The next morning Dr. Pokorney was with us about six 
o'clock.. John reached our camp about the same hour. He 
was evidently not in the most agreeable frame of mind : 
something must have gone wrong since he parted from us 
last evening. It is now evident that he intends to direct the 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



55 



future movements of the whole party. He has Informed 
Dr. Pokorney that the hunt to-day ought to take place at a 
certain point on the lake ; they find themselves unable to 
agree on this subject, when the Governor came to the aid 
of the latter, and poor John was thus left in the minority. 
He could not good-naturedly endure all this, and remained 
sullen during the whole day. Poor unhappy man ! What 
is the matter with you ? Are you in love, and loved and 
still unhappy? How are we to explain your conduct? We 
have carefully studied your case, and have also pondered 
seriously the doctrine of the transmigrations as propounded 
by Pythagoras, and ask now the question, Has not the soul 
of some departed Huron chief found a temporary lodgment 
within the body of this unhappy man ? But the more we 
studied the antics of this curious fellow the more puzzling 
became the solution of the questions. Chief John was not 
a lover of "fire-water," but with this exception, his light, 
quick, and elastic step, keen sight, acute sense of hearing, 
extensive knowledge of wood-craft, all proclaimed the 
ruling spirit of the noble red man, and our guide in his 
own words assured us that he possessed all these ; never- 
theless there was something wonderfully conflicting be- 
tween his words and acts. It was during the second day 
of the deer-hunt, led by Dr. Pokorney, that the Governor 
declared, in the presence of the Scribe, that inasmuch as 
" a house divided against itself cannot stand," therefore 
John must take his departure. 

It was evident to us that the Governor had reached this 
conclusion after much patient thought ; but since the con- 
duct of the guides associated with him had been entirely^ 



56 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

satisfactory to us, the important question that now arose 
was, How shall they be treated in this emergency ? The 
Governor held an interview with Jim, explained to him the 
situation, and it was amicably arranged between them 
that the latter and also Frank should go back with John 
to Bracebridge. In accordance with this treaty, John and 
his assistants departed from our camp the same evening. 
It was evident to all observers that this difficult and em- 
barrassing negotiation had been conducted with masterly 
skill on the part of our ambassador, since even John 
seemed satisfied and but slightly crestfallen when he parted 
from us. Jim urged us to come back into this country 
once more and give him a chance to act as our chief guide, 
— a position which we all knew he would fill to our entire 
satisfaction, since he had at all times, while in our service, 
acted in good faith and with a true regard to our comforts 
and best interests. Dr. Pokorney had been consulted by 
the Governor before he took this decisive action, and had 
informed the latter that he could immediately supply the 
required number of assistants, canoes, etc. ; in fact, two 
colored men in new birch-bark canoes reported at our 
camp within an hour after John's departure. 

The change was found to be highly agreeable. The 
new canoes afforded us a dry, warm seat while we were 
on the lake, instead of reposing continually in a cold-water 
bath, as we had previously done. Dr. Pokorney now 
brought into camp with him his son in addition to the 
parties which I have previously mentioned. The son re- 
mained in camp, took charge of the fire and tent while the 
father and the other or-uides were en^^aofed with us in the 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



57 



deer-hunting. We were never left in camp without at- 
tendants. These guides remained with us night and day, 
although they were unprovided with tents or other shelter 
than their canoes. I frequently saw them sit with their 
backs supported by trees, sleeping soundly while their 
clothing was thoroughly drenched with water and the rain 
still pouring down on them. Their canoes, when turned 
bottom side up, — bows placed on a log or rock so as to 
admit air and light, — afforded them very fair protection 
against a storm, while the space beneath them was ample 
to enable them to turn or move as much as was necessary 
during sleeping hours. 

The attendance in camp and the guidance while in 
search of game was now all that we could wish. We 
found Dr. Pokorney well versed in deer-hunting, and at 
the same time intelligent and companionable. His son, 
a lad of sixteen, brave and hardy, frequently amused me 
by the narration of his exploits in the Canadian forests at 
mid-winter, while engaged as a companion to an old beaver- 
trapper. His story, although not entirely new, was indeed 
very interesting. The boy said, " It was in the latter part 
of the month of January that I started, in company with 
old Ben, to go back into the bush about seventy-five miles 
in order to trap beaveo The weather was very cold and 
the snow was nearly three feet deep, and we were com- 
pelled to use snow-shoes. The hardest part of our work 
consisted in carrying in our provisions, traps, and other 
things required in trapping. When we started from this 
lake I carried a pack which weighed about fifty pounds. 
The first day out we travelled about ten miles, halted for 



58 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

the night and cleared the snow from a space large enough 
for the fire and our bed. The required amount of wood 
and the balsam boughs were gathered, the fire built and 
the bed arranged, after which we prepared and ate our 
supper, and then wrapped ourselves in a woollen blanket, 
with which each was provided, and lay down for sleep." I 
inquired of the lad, " Were you able to sleep ?" thinking 
the cold would probably act as a potent barrier in this 
instance. The reply came promptly from the hardy lad, 
" Oh yes ! I slept very well, for Uncle Ben kept up a good 
fire all night." He then added, "The next morning, after 
breakfast, we again shouldered our packs and pushed for- 
ward about six miles into the forest, when we marked the 
spot and buried our luggage." In answer to my inquiry 
he informed me that they buried their packs, consisting of 
provisions and traps, to keep other trappers, who might 
chance to pass that way, from appropriating these articles 
to their own use, which might otherwise happen. The 
hiding having been completed, the old trapper and his 
assistant retraced their steps to the log cabin from which 
they had originally started on their journey to the woods. 
Here they remained only until the following morning, when 
they again^ started with other packs. This severe work of 
packing lasted more than two weeks, when they reached 
the locality that had been selected for trapping beaver. I 
have avoided a repetition of his daily narrative, lest it 
might become tiresome to the reader, although it was very 
interesting to me when minutely detailed by the junior 
participant. The story as told involved the daily doings, 
the exposures, hardships, and fatigues of the old back- 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OE CANADA. 



59 



woodsman and his youthful assistant. They were in the 
woods nearly three months, without the protection of even 
a canoe, tent, or any other shelter, during that portion of 
the time in which they were engaged in transporting 
their provisions and traps to the new field of labor. 
Having reached their destination they then erected huts, 
which they occupied as long as they remained. 

Let us now return to our camp-life on the Lake of the 
Bays, from which we have wandered so far while speaking 
of Dr. Pokorney's son. We have already described the 
deer-hunt that occurred immediately after Dr. Pokorney 
joined our party, and in addition to this we have incident- 
ally mentioned the fact that on the following day we en- 
gaged again in the same sport, which was continued day 
after day for more than a week with varying success, 
after the departure of John and his assistants. I cannot at 
this moment recall the number of animals killed, or the 
particulars of each chase, and even were I able to do so 
it would certainly be somewhat monotonous to the reader. 

When the time came for us to start homeward, it was 
suggested by Dr. Pokorney that it would be more con- 
venient for us to leave by the way of Huntsville than to 
retrace our steps to Baysville ; and consequently we 
started from this lake on which we had spent a very 
pleasant time in the company of our guides. 

We were compelled to portage our canoes and luggage 
from Lake of the Bays to Peninsula Lake, but we readily 
passed from the latter by its outlet to Fairy Lake and 
down this lake to Huntsville, where we parted with Dr. 
Pokorney and his colored assistants. 



6o 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



We remained at this frontier village only a few hours, 
having arrived in the afternoon and taking our departure 
the following morning by the old stage-coach, which put 
us down in Bracebridge the same day about sunset. The 
return to our homes was made without the occurrence of 
any important events worthy of mention here. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 6 1 



CHAPTER IV. 

The Start and Incidents of the Journey — Lumbermen and their Drunken 
Orgies — Travelling by the Royal Mail Stage in Muskoka — The Party 

ATTACKED BY FLEAS — CAMP ON CaNOE LaKE — DeER-HuNTING — GOVERNOR 

Starts for Home— The Remainder of the Party off for New Fields 

Camp on Pickerel Lake— Rain and Fish— Crossing the Horka-Porka 
Portage— Camp on Rock Lake — Trout-Fishing— Camp near Loon and 
Grass Lakes— Camp on Sand Lake— Homeward Bound. 

EDNESDAY, 13TH. — Arrived at the 

Falls of Niagara at eight a.m., and a 

. few moments later started for Toronto, 

and reached that city at one-thirty p.m. 

Dined, and afterwards saw a display of 

the fire department, given in honor of 

^^W the mao;nates of Rochester and Buffalo, 

^who are paying a visit to the exhibition 

that is now being held here. The force of the water is so 

great that no engines are necessary ; the water, rushing 

through the hose, ascends to the highest roof 

Afterwards we strolled through the city, admiring the 
beautifully laid out streets and the fine buildings. Among 
other scenes we visited St. James' Cathedral, — a magnifi- 
cent structure, — and we ascended the spire, which is three 
hundred and nineteen feet high. Here a perfect panorama 
lay at our feet ; a fine view was obtained, but it was in 
miniature, on account of the great height. Yachts were 
seen flying through the water ; vessels at anchor ; steam- 




62 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

boats, of which there was a fleet, dashing to and fro. A 
little beyond was the home of the great sculler, who learned 
to row on the placid waters of the lake, which is here 
nearly land-locked. At Toronto we procured camping- 
blankets and provisions which we would require whilst 
sojourning in the woods. We did not visit the exhibition, 
as we were anxious to drink in the ozone of the wilderness. 
Thursday, \\tJi. — Started for Gravenhurst, — had a pal- 
ace-car to ourselves. The conductor was extremely polite 
and attentive, pointing out every object of interest which 
we passed on the road. While our time was thus occupied, 
in the other car were sixteen lumbermen who were en- 
ofaofed to OTQ into the woods to cut lumber, — men who held 
a continual drunken orgy. The bottles of whiskey were 
continually passing from mouth to mouth. They were the 
most besotted set of men it was ever my lot to encounter. 
However, they kept to themselves and troubled no one. 
Reached Gravenhurst, — a place consisting of a few houses, 
— and immediately took a small steamboat, at half-past one, 
and proceeded to the upper part of Lake Rosseau. We 
had dinner and supper on board, as the boat did not reach 
Rosseau until eight p.m. Three of the lumbermen came 
to the table, and we had a scene with one of them. His 
appetite was ravenous, and plate after plate disappeared 
before him. It made no difference of what it was com- 
posed. During dinner the steward called upon him for 
the price of his meal, — only forty cents. His reply was 
that he would have to wait till he was sure that he had 
taken enough, and again he attacked the eatables. If the 
rest of the band were only able to come to the table the 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 63 

captain would not realize much from that dinner. This 
man did not come to the supper-table. His appetite re- 
minded me of an Indian at a feast, laying in a stock for 
several days. We stopped at Pratt's Hotel, newly gotten 
up and finished. The proprietor is a Bostonian ; he re- 
fused the other party, who got accommodations a little 
below. During the night they got up and stole all the 
whiskey that the landlord had. Rosseau is pretdly situated 
at the head of the lake. The hotel occupies a prominent 
location. The proprietor informed us that last summer it 
was full oi guests from Boston and its surroundings. Mr. 
Pratt knows how to run a hotel, and his charges are cer- 
tainly reasonable, as is shown by the fact that for bed and 
breakfast he demands only seventy-five cents. The hotel 
has since burned down ; the capacity at that time being 
about one hundred guests. 

We made arrangements with the driver of the mail to 
take us and our paraphernalia to Maganetawan. Our 
coach was a laree farm-waeon without a cover and minus 
springs. It was pleasanter without the first, and >ve were 
on the road but a short time when we discovered why it 
was without the second. The road, if such it could be 
called, was so stony that no springs could stand the jour- 
ney without being demolished. After an early breakfast 
the wagon drove up to the door, and one of our party 
opened his eyes at the prodigious turnout. He said that 
he would prefer a spring-wagon ; so would we, but there 
was no alternative. Thirty-five miles had to be travelled 
before we reached our destination. We took our guns 
and rods, and the driver then informed us that with our- 



64 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

selves and the other passengers the load would be so 
heavy that he could not take our provisions, but he would 
send them later. We informed him that he must take the 
luggage or not take us, and after a good deal of dilly-dally- 
ing he loaded up, and we proceeded. To describe the ride 
in that Royal mail-coach is impossible ; hardly had we left 
the hotel when our misery commenced. Our seat was a 
pine board with no back to support you, and nothing to 
hold on to as you were pitched from side to side. Now 
when we descend a hill there is a tendency to pitch for- 
ward, and again a sudden ascent impels you to turn a 
back-somersault. Walking was far preferable to riding 
in such a conveyance, especially as the horses could not 
move at a faster gait than a walk. 

We soon overtook two wagons carrying the lumber- 
men, as many of them were unable to walk, although 
some were endeavoring to do so ; and they presented a 
novel sight, too, with handkerchiefs tied about their heads 
in lieu of the hats they had lost during their drunken 
revels. The scene that one of the wagons presented was 
a disgrace to humanity : one of the number was stretched 
out on his back, — hors de co77ibat, — while another was pour- 
ing whiskey down his throat, the miserable victim in his 
stupor not knowing what physic he was taking. We 
passed this party, glad to get rid of their company. 
Arrived at Maganetawan at seven p.m., every bone in our 
bodies sore and tired. Never had such experience in our 
lives ; you pay well sometimes for your sport. That night 
before retiring to bed sent for a guide, and made arrange- 
ments with him. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 65 

Friday, \^th. — This morning the Governor and myself 
went fishinof on the river, but with no luck. I was so tired 
last night that I slept soundly, but my companions informed 
me that though they, too, were tired, sweet sleep visited 
them not. In its place they passed a restless night, troubled 
with a multitude of fleas, which gave them no rest. In the 
afternoon we went out and caught bass and pickerel under 
the guidance of a gamin called Johnny McCarthy, who was 
as sharp as a steel-trap, and knew where the fish were to be 
caught. He was the embryo sportsman. We were obliged 
to wait this day for the guide. Captain George Ross, who 
lives three miles from this village, which consists of Scotch 
settlers and Canadians. There are two small groceries 
and two inns, at one of which (kept by Clark) we rested. 

During the day we sent our traps by stage to the place 
where we were to camp, seven miles from Clark's. The 
day was fine, but it rained during the night. I was amused 
that nieht to hear the conversation of those assembled at 
Clark's. This, it seemed, was the rendezvous of the vil- 
lage. During the day a woman had died, and the village 
carpenter was engaged in making — I will not call it a 
coffin — a box ; it was original. The dead woman had 
been married a year; the people seemed to mourn her 
loss, as she was a kind person. It impressed me very 
much to see the sympathy of the neighbors. 

Saturday, i6tk. — Hired a wagon and started for the 
camp. After riding a distance we dismounted and took a 
birch canoe on Canoe Lake, and finally reached our camp. 
The tent was up and the larder was furnished with a deer, 
which the guide had killed the day before, besides arrang- 

5 



66 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. 

ing the camp. We partook to-day, for the first time, of a 
dinner under a tent in the woods. The change from a set 
table with all its conveniences to the camp with its impro- 
vised accommodations is a decided one, but I think we all 
enjoyed this dinner, although the Governor wanted a 
napkin. He was the only one for whom a cup and saucer 
were procured in Toronto ; the rest of the camp and table 
utensils were of tin. Our camp was delightfully situated 
about one hundred feet from the lake. We were much 
pleased with the good taste exhibited by our guide in the 
selection of the spot. This afternoon we went out hunting, 
and Dr. W. was the first to bring down a deer, which he 
killed a short distance from the camp. This afternoon our 
force was increased by I. Nelson, an old man, and George, 
his son, a young fellow about twenty. Our number is now 
six men all told. We have two hounds and two canoes. 

Our beds are composed of the tops of firs placed on 
Mother Earth. The night had its discomforts as well as 
pleasures ; unhappily, we had obtained some blankets from 
Clark's, and with them was the inevitable flea, which, like 
the mosquito, gives no rest. We passed a miserable night 
on account of these pests, but propose to beat them out 
to-morrow. 

Sunday. — A day of rest. 

Monday. — Went fishing on the lake ; small trout and 
chubs are the only fish the lake contains. 

Tuesday. — The Governor and myself each shot a deer. 

Wednesday. — Dr. W. went out with the gun and 
brought in some partridges. 

Thursday. — This evening we were frightened when 




" ^■'^'>' "' °— -« ™yse,f e.ch sho. , ,e„... ^ 



68 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

George set fire to the frying-pan in which he was preparing 
to cook some fish. His cries of "Water! water!" aroused 
the whole camp. The next episode was the Governor 
being nearly frozen to death. He forgot in getting into 
bed to go between the blankets, and on the dawn of day 
he became aware of his scanty covering, although we keep 
up a rousing fire before the tent all night. We have im- 
proved our camp, having erected a dining-room near the 
tent, open on the front and closed in on both sides, with a 
roof made of pine boughs. Here we have our table, and 
we are as happy as kings, eating our meals. The Gov- 
ernor insisted that it would be more civilized to eat off a 
table than off the o^round, so we followed his suo-orestion. 
The Governor and myself took with us the old man Nelson 
to visit a beaver-dam, but before we had reached it we got 
tired and returned ; took a gun with us, and killed some 
partridges, — a foolish bird. It flies from the ground and 
perches on a limb, looking down. If there should be a 
flock on the tree, the report of a gun will not frighten them 
away, and, provided you kill the lowest one first, and so on, 
you may bag the entire lot. 

Young George went out to start a deer ; did not return 
till the following day. Says that he lost his way. The 
opinion of the camp was that he got lazy and slept out in 
a haystack. 

Thursday, 21st. — Took a stroll through the woods. In 
the afternoon a deer was shot ; the hinder part was partly 
eaten by one of the hounds. 

Friday, 22d. — Broke up camp and went to the head 
of the lake. The Governor took the stacfe for Rosseau 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 69 

on his way home. George and his father went home, and 
we pitched our camp on the shores of the lake. Got milk 
from Averill's. The captain went in search of another 
guide. As we were coming down the lake in the canoes, 
which were loaded to the gunwale, one of the dogs under- 
took to jump out and come to our canoe, nearly upsetting 
the one containing the Governor. However, nothing more 
serious resulted than the shipping of some water and the 
severe fright to our friend. 

Captain Ross now went home, and Dr. W. and myself 
were alone. 

Saturday, 23^. — The captain came to the camp about 
ten o'clock, accompanied by Bob Noble, who was to go 
with us as the second oruide. We ate dinner and started 
up the lake for Maganetawan in a canoe, and reached there 
in the evening. Camped a little above the falls, near a saw- 
mill. Visited Clark, and was invited by him to rest there 
that night. Remembering the experience that we had 
under his roof on our first night at Maganetawan, we 
replied that he evidendy had too many to accommodate 
already, and only took our supper there. This evening 
the boy, John McCarthy, begged so hard to accompany us 
that we finally consented, and a happy boy he was. I 
think he slept but litde that night. He is fourteen years 
of age, and his whole delight is in fishing. He has never 
been out on an expedition before. 

Sunday, 2/^th. — After breakfast at Clark's we started 
for Burk's Falls, a distance of twenty miles. The morn- 
ing was fair, but shortly after starting it commenced to 
rain, and condnued all day. We stopped at twelve for 



70 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE ; 



lunch and then proceeded, — the captain and I in the little 
canoe and the doctor and Bob in the larger one. Well 
provided with rubber outfit, I kept dry, while the others 
were wet. Arrived safely at Burk's Falls, — named after 
Burk, who four years ago settled here, and who keeps a 
store ; there is also a post-office and a new hotel building. 
The enterprise shown by the government is wonderful. 
Every little settlement has its post-office and regular mail. 
A steamboat runs from the Falls to Maganetawan every 
other day. We tried our luck with the fish and caught a 
nice lot for supper. We camped by the river. 

Monday^ 25^/2. — Started for Pickerel Lake. Hired 
Burk's team to take our luggage beyond the first portage. 
I went with the team ; the others by canoe. After the 
portage was passed the captain and I took one canoe, the 
doctor and Bob the other. We had not proceeded far 
when we ran into a snag, and to prevent sinking before we 
reached the land, I had to hold my hand over the rent in the 
side of the canoe while Captain Ross paddled us ashore. 

With a piece of cloth and an application of warm pitch 
we were soon afloat again. At noon we took our dinner. 
The doctor got out his tackle, and in a few moments 
landed some nice bass and pickerel, which made an appe- 
tizing addition to our mid-day meal. He had also two 
''rises' of trout. 

Arrived in the evening at Pickerel Lake; went out 
and caught some bass and pickerel. There is good trout- 
fishing here. This lake is two miles long. W^e encamped 
at the head of it. Four settlers are located on its shores, 
and live by fishing and hunting as well as by cultivating 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 71 

the ground. Last Saturday our next neighbor, Mossup,. 
killed a black bear about half a mile from our encampment. 

It rained nearly all day ; too wet to hunt ; went trolling 
in the lake, and caught some very fine bass. In the after- 
noon tried to start a deer, but failed. 

Wednesday, 2jth. — Equinoctial storm; wet! wet! wet! 
Went fishine, and cauofht some fish. Have had no flesh 
meat since we left Maganetawan. Fish is our principal 
food. George went out and started a deer, but it took to 
another lake. It rained all day ; very cold ; varied by 
snowing in the evening. The wind was very sharp and 
cold. Received a visit from Mossup's two sons. Got a 
supply of potatoes from him. It is remarkable what fine 
potatoes are raised on this virgin soil. 

Thursday, 2Zth. — Still wet and cold. Tried fishing, but 
the lake was too rough for success. In hopes of pro- 
viding some partridge for the table we went out with our 
guns, but the endeavor failed. Had for dinner bouillon, 
potatoes, carrots, turnips, and onions ; splendid appetite. 
Captain Ross does not know what to do. The doctor has 
the blues ; would like to be home. I went out on the 
mountain for partridge ; no use. In the afternoon went 
on the lake and caught some fish near the shore, although 
the lake was covered with white-caps. The doctor is 
fixing his pants ; sewed the pockets up by camp-light. 

Friday, 2gth. — Rained all last night; raining this 
morning. George started a deer, — a large buck, — but 
did not get him ; he disappeared very mysteriously. A wet 
day ; drooping spirits in camp. Captain George sick : a 
bloody dysentery ; gave him the last of the spirits ; he 



72 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



went to Mossup's house. The doctor and Bob are out in 
the canoe watching for deer. In the afternoon they went 
out fishing; caught four bass and two pickerel. Made. a 
pond for the fish, but in the morning they were missing, 
having been taken by the minks. 

Saturday, 30///. — Wet morning. Went out looking for 
help ; paddled about till ten o'clock, when he got Mossup 
and his boy to come and help carry the baggage, so that we 
could go straight on without returning. The captain was 
unwilling to start, as he said it would rain ; but the doctor 
was determined, and to show it we started on before them, 
so that they had to follow. It rained a litde in the morn- 
ing, — very little. The doctor and I started with our guns 
and rods ; lost the trail, but kept on our course, and the 
first thing we met was a high mountain. We faced it, and 
by hard work, climbing and crawling, we reached the top. 
A beautiful sight rewarded our efforts : no less than three 
lakes were to be seen at the foot of the mountain. We 
also descried our party in a ravine, and built a fire to 
attract their attention. They saw it, and we hastened to 
join them. We descended the side of the mountain and 
found them all right, except that they had decided to camp 
there for the day. We decided, after partaking of a light 
meal, to proceed on our way. The account given by the 
captain of the portage was sufficient to intimidate any one 
but ourselves. Our word was Onivard ! We were told 
that we could not make the journey before night, and that 
when we reached Rock Lake, for which we were bound, 
there would be no place to pitch our tent. We were re- 
solved, however, to go on, and we did. But of all the 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 






portages, this beat them all! Through a bog, wet and 
muddy, over logs, and through bushes, well interlaced, we 
finally reached our resting-place on Rock Lake. We 
found that the only place suitable for a camp was on a 
rocky cliff, about thirty feet above the lake, not more than 
twenty feet clear on the surface, and little or no wood, as 
there had been a fire. The lake was alive with fish ; the 
doctor tried them, but they would not bite. Wearied and 
exhausted, we impatiendy awaited the cooking of a pot of 
beans ; and before they were half boiled, so great was our 
hunger, we attacked the pot. 

We had to drive pegs in the crevices of the rock, and 
in many instances were compelled to put stones as weights 
on the canvas to keep the tent in place. We slept, 
however, soundly. 

Sunday, October i. — The night was stormy; thunder 
and lightning with high winds. The guides' tent was blown 
down on them, but they were so tired that they slept on 
when they found that their lives were safe, although the 
manner in which Bob prayed aloud would open the eyes 
of any saint. The doctor and myself tried to improve 
on our bed of the previous night by knocking off some 
of the sharp points of the rocks on which we slept. It 
was truly the hardest and most uneven that we ever slept 
on, and we prefer to be excused from a repetition ; so, as 
we had to remain there another night, we tried to make 
it at least smoother, if not softer. The doctor went out 
and caught eleven large trout, and as the larder was bare, 
it is no exaggeration to add that they were very acceptable 
after yesterday's tramp and our sumptuous (?) supper. 



74 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



The captain and Bob started back after the rest of the 
baggage, which they had left where we took lunch, and 
came into camp about four o'clock p.m. with a beautiful 
specimen of a large owl that they had shot. The doctor 
had to provide food for the camp, and brought in a fine lot 
of trout. We set Bob to work, with an axe, levelling our 
bed, by cutting out stumps, driving down stones, and 
raising up others. We had to be careful, for we were 
limited in space, — liable to fall and break our necks. 

It rained all day ; the guides were in bad humor. 

Monday, 2d. — Changed camp to-day. First we had a 
portage of a quarter of a mile to Mud Lake, followed by 
a portage of half a mile to Loon Lake, both of which 
we crossed, and camped between Loon and Grass Lakes. 
In crossing: Loon Lake we trolled and caugrht some 
speckled and salmon trout, several weighing from two to 
three pounds. This is a beautiful lake, and we encamped 
on a lovely spot. There is about forty rods of ground 
intervening between the two lakes. We set to work here 
fixing our camp ; the doctor gathering a fine supply of 
young branches for a bed, whilst I was making a fire to 
burn the roots and leave the ground nice and dry where 
we were to sleep. With our delightful situation — plenty 
of fine fish and an abundance of johnny-cake for supper — 
we were happy, and slept the sleep of the just. 

Tuesday, 2>^. — Bob went out in quest of a dog that 
had followed a deer yesterday and had not returned ; 
finally discovered him in the camp of a hunter named 
Harvey, and returned with him to us. I went out for a 
stroll and got some partridges. Bob and the captain went 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 75 

after deer in the morning, but were unsuccessful. The 
doctor started out in the morning in search of partridge, 
and at four o'clock in the afternoon a furious storm arose. 
At half-past five we sent Bob out in a canoe across the 
lake, as we heard the report of the doctor's gun. The 
thunder and liofhtninof were severe. After a while we made 
a fire on the border of Loon Lake to direct them home. 
In the glare of the lightning we saw Bob, in the canoe, 
shouting with his might and main. He finally reached the 
shore, though the wind lashed the lake into high waves. 
Again we heard the report of the doctor's gun ; this time 
the captain took one of the canoes and went in search of 
the doctor. The storm increased in violence ; it was a 
terrible night. Towards eight o'clock we heard shouting 
on the lake. It was the captain returning, bringing home 
my companion, — safe, though wet to the skin. He had 
built a fire and it had set fire to a decayed tree, which had 
some time before been struck by the lightning, and for a 
great distance around the fire lighted up everything, and 
thus directed the steps of the guide through the darkness 
to the spot. The doctor had wandered to another lake, 
and as he thought he was yet on Loon Lake, he lost his 
way. He had not provided himself with a pocket-com- 
pass. It is a serious thing to get lost in the wilds of 
Canada. 

Wednesday, a^th. — A fine breakfast, — partridges and 
splendid trout. We enjoy camp-life very much. Went 
out deer-hunting, and before noon we had a fine buck 
hung up, weighing over two hundred pounds. One of 
the dogs was again lost, and Bob went to hunt him up ; 



1^ 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



took my breech-loader with hnn. Scene, — Bob returns, 
swearing like a trooper ; wet and cold, — it is now the month 
of October and ice has already formed, — wants to change 
his clothing; stands by the camp-fire, dripping wet. In 
the mean time he shouts to me, "Your gun is lost; it is 




r\..i| 



j.,_.^ It\ 






-^^^^ 




" It is a serious thincr to get lost in the wilds of Canada." 



in the bottom of the lake." He informs me that the doe 
upset the canoe, and that he was compelled to swim 
ashore. Went fishing and caught many trout, — as many 
as we desired. It rained several times to-day. The boy, 
John, set his trap for mink and caught several. Made a 
rake to go fishing after my gun that went to the bottom 
of the lake. Doctor and Bob went to find the lost gun ; 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. jy 

the captain and I after deer. We started one, which took 
to a neighboring lake. Went to this lake, and, the water 
being clear, we discovered the gun at the bottom. Took 
a line and hook and brought up the gun, the hook having 
cauofht the oruard. It seems that there was no doe in the 
boat, and that Bob was about to fire when the canoe upset ; 
both barrels being cocked, as we discovered when we 
raised the gun. We joked Bob about the canoe being 
upset by a dog when there was a man in it. It was worse 
than sleeping in a haystack. He felt sheepish and con- 
siderably "riled" ; so much so that he refused point-blank 
to accompany the doctor in the little canoe. It rained 
to-day. 

Friday, 6tk. — Started a deer this morning, but after 
some running it took a direction straight from us, so that 
we were obliged to give it up. Returned to camp, and 
after dinner the captain went to try to get a man to help 
us move, as we have decided to go on to-morrow. We 
obtained a quantity of potatoes. Several birds were shot, 
and also a marten. Tried to fish, but they would not 
" rise." 

Saturday, "jth. — Broke camp and started to Sand Lake. 
The portage was three miles long, a good even trail, and 
we had a man to assist in carrying the luggage. On our 
way one of the dogs started a deer. The captain, who 
carried on his shoulders one of the canoes bearing our 
cooking-utensils and paddles, started on a run two miles 
from the lake to which we were bound. We proceeded 
leisurely, shooting partridge as we went along; lost our 
way, and had to retrace our steps before we got on the 



78 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

right trail. When we approached the border of the lake 
we found the sand strewn with kettles and pots, and on 
looking on the lake we beheld the captain driving before 
him a very fine deer, which the dog had started two miles 
back. The doctor took the other canoe, and with one of 
the guns killed the deer. The captain had no weapon with 
him except the paddle, and this he was unwilling to use on 
the deer. He kept it swimming until we arrived. We 
encamped in the midst of a pine grove, the most beautiful 
spot it was my good fortune to see. There lay the lake 
in all its natural beauty, backed by beautiful scenery; 
trees that spring up sixty feet as straight as an arrow be- 
fore your eye would encounter a single branch. A silence 
that was solemn. The doctor and myself sat hour after 
hour gazing on the scene on a moonlight night, as the 
waters of the lake rippled on, and we exclaimed, " Oh, that 
a painter worthy of the subject was here !" Here was 
nature unadorned, in all her primeval beauty. At some 
distance from us was a house, where we obtained milk and 
potatoes, which we relished. 

October lo. — Went to visit W. Tucker, where I dined 
and procured some bread. It seemed a little strange, after 
being out in camp, to be within the walls of a house. Had 
several hunters of the surrounding country to visit us. 
They were on a hunt ; had one deer. 

October ii. — Went out fishing on the lake in a dug- 
out, and while fishing shot a deer, which I brought to shore, 
havino- towed it with the fishing-line. It was slow work 
bringing it in, as the pesky old dug-out was so easily upset. 
I astonished the doctor when I informed him that I caught 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



79 



him on the line. We had now two other deer besides 
mine. This lake is three miles long and one of the most 
beautiful of lakes. 

October 12. — Started for home. Crossed the lake, en- 
tered the waters of the South River, and paddled with a 
light heart for the land of the free. We came to Kearney, 
where there was a store, but no refreshments on hand. 
Kept on until three o'clock, and then lunched. Started 
again ; found many rapids where we were obliged to walk. 
Camped at six o'clock ; had abundance for dinner, — par- 
tridges, venison, and potatoes, no bread. Slept soundly. 

October 13. — Started early; at the first rapids one of 
the dogs started a deer ; had to wait an hour for the beast. 
The other canoe went ahead. The canoe leaked badly. 
Reached Burk's Falls at three and a half p.m. Here we 
took a steamboat, and after a safe and uneventful journey 
from this point, we reached home again October 1 6. 



8o 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



CHAPTER V. 



The Start for a Grand Moose- and Deer-Hunt — Selection of a Photogra- 
pher AND THE Chief Guide — A Romantic Wedding and the Honey- 
moon — Arrival at Rosseau Village — Canadian Stage Route — Proprietor 
AND Driver— Our Old Friend " Chris" — Our New-Made Acquaintances- 
Mr. Struce, of Brooklyn. 



J- 




HE necessary preparations for a 
grand 77ioose- and deer-hunt which I 
commenced in the month of July, 
■1884, were not completed until the 
20th of September in the same 
year. I had originally anticipated 
that I would be able to persuade 
some personal friend to accom- 
pany me ; but when I informed them that I should probably 
be away from home at least two months, and that there 
were certain hardships and privations that were inseparable 
from moose-stalking, I found no one inclined to become a 
member of my party. I was therefore placed in a position 
to organize this expedition on a basis which was strictly in 
harmony with my own wishes. The great object that I 
wished to accomplish by this trip was an improvement of 
my health, inasmuch as I was then suffering from gluco- 
suria, making it necessary for me to take very active ex- 
ercise, which to a lazy man is commonly felt to be a mean 
sort of drudgery. I therefore took advantage of my love 
of the chase, and thereby changed what would otherwise 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. gl 

have been an Irksome duty into a pleasant pastime. It 
required but little reflection on my part to discern the ad- 
vantages that might accrue from the presence of a photog- 
rapher in my party, since he would enable me to bring 
away from the wilderness so many grand scenes which, 
otherwise, would be so soon forgotten, even by myself, 
and never enjoyed by my friends. It was while I was im- 
bued with this idea that I met Anton Mildenberger, an 
educated gentleman and highly skilled landscape photogra- 
pher, who very readily consented to become a member of 
my party. This gentleman possessed in a very high de- 
gree those qualities, physical, mental, and social, which are 
so important in every member of such a hunting-party. 
The reader will readily perceive that since there is much 
heavy labor to be performed, especially on the portages, it is 
very desirable that each member of the party should be able 
to give some assistance, and it likewise requires physical 
strength to travel long distances through these unbroken 
forests. It is equally evident that, prior to engaging a 
photographer for such an expedition as I was about to start 
on, his mental and social qualides should be carefully con- 
sidered. Having given the necessary attention to all these 
points, I finally determined to employ Mr. Mildenberger. 

About the middle of August the terms were arranged, 
and he was requested to be in readiness for the departure 
on the 20th of September. I had reached the conclusion, 
prior to entering on this engagement, that the individual 
selected for this duty was neither an epicure nor a dude, 
and therefore I believed that he might be able to content 
himself in a hunter's camp. This conclusion was, in some 



g2 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

measure, based on the fact that I had learned from a thor- 
oughly reliable source that my photographer had served as 
a private soldier in the German army during the whole of 
the Franco-Prussian War ; and I was then — as I am now — 
thoroughly convinced that in such a school a strong char- 
acter is formed, frivolities forgotten, and manhood developed. 
Let the reader study the character of Anton Mildenberger 
throughout the entire story of this hunt before he declares 
that the opinion I have just expressed is incorrect. 

The selection of the chief guide, although a matter of 
great importance to any hunting-party, did not in this in- 
stance require much thought on my part, as I was thor- 
oughly acquainted with George Ross, who resides at 
Spence, in the district of Muskoka, province of Ontario, 
Canada, and with whom the reader has already been made 
familiar in the preceding pages of this book, especially 
with his exploits in deer-hunting, etc. These remarkable 
feats, which have been recorded by my friend and com- 
panion in a former hunt in these backwoods, were all 
familiar to me when I made my arrangements for a third 
visit to this grand forest. I was likewise aware of the fact 
that there were then only two competent moose-hunters 
and guides for all that region which I had determined to 
enter, and these were Captain George Ross and his 
brother, Wellington. These brothers were the first white 
men to penetrate that magnificent forest lying north and 
northeast of Pickerel Lake and the Lake of the Ba)s and 
south of the Ottawa River for the purpose of trapping 
beaver. This forest still contains many thousand square 
miles, which are in the same primitive condition as they 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 83 

were a hundred years ago. It was In this great forest that 
I spent six weeks without meeting a human being, except 
the members of my own party, or seeing even a trapper's 
cabin, with the exception of two or three that had been 
built by the Ross brothers. These brothers had been 
trapping in that wilderness about fourteen years, and are 
certain that when they first entered it it did not contain 
moose nor any trace of those animals. They say that the 
moose made their appearance here after the prevalence of 
heavy forest fires which prevailed in the country east of 
this region, and that this was contemporaneous with the 
commencement of work on the Canadian Pacific Railroad, 
I wrote to Captain George Ross, making my engagement 
with him about the middle of July, 1884; thus early in order 
that he might prepare the necessary outfit, and likewise 
construct new birch-bark canoes, and engage an assistant 
guide, etc. He promptly informed me of his acceptance, 
and promised to have everything In readiness for us. It 
was, therefore, with the fullest confidence in the complete- 
ness of my arrangements that I took my departure from 
Jersey City on the evening of the 20th of September, 1884, 
in company with my photographer. 

Nothing of Importance transpired until we reached 
Gravenhurst wharf, on the 2 2d of September. This oc- 
curred at about two p.m., and we went immediately on 
board of the steamboat " Nippissing," where I met an in- 
telligent gentleman, who informed me that he was one of 
the first settlers In the vicinity of Rosseau, having settled 
about thirty years ago In the backwoods, built for himself 
and wife a small log cabin, and afterwards cut down the 



84 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

forest-trees, changing the wilderness into a farm, on which 
he reared a family, and where he still continued to reside. 
He spoke of the sufferings and deprivations endured by 
himself and other pioneers who first ventured to settle in 
this cold, rocky wilderness, where they were generally 
widely separated from each other, and likewise at a great 
distance from those depots which furnished them with the 
necessaries of life. 

It often became necessary for these pioneers to walk 
through unbroken forests a distance of forty or sixty miles 
in order to buy provisions, or even mail a letter, while their 
only means of transportation, during the season in which 
the lakes and rivers were not frozen, was the birch-bark 
canoe ; but when these avenues of travel were closed with 
ice, they were then compelled to perform the labor which, 
in California and other portions of the United States, is 
done by pack-mules. 

Furthermore, the difficulty which attended this trans- 
portation of provisions was not by any means the most 
serious one with which they had to contend, inasmuch as 
the amount of cash carried by them into the wilderness 
was generally very limited, and consequently soon ex- 
hausted ; a condition which, in some instances, was fol- 
lowed by death from starvation, while in other cases these 
poor sufferers were compelled to subsist for many weeks 
on no other food than turnips, eaten without salt or pepper, 
while at other times a meal was made of birch-buds or 
seed-potatoes that had been planted some weeks. In 
order that the reader may understand this dreadful con- 
dition of things, he should be informed that the pioneers 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 85 

who first settled on these " Free Grant Lands" were very 
poor, possessing no live-stock of any kind, and in many 
instances they were even strangers to the American con- 
tinent, — persons who had been tempted by the offer of 
lands to leave their homes in Europe, and in many cases, 
too, these immigrants were entirely ignorant of all agricul- 
tural pursuits. 

Many of these people became quickly discouraged. 
Some turned back from the front without even attempting 
to battle with the cold climate and the discouraging sur- 
roundings ; some remained there only a few weeks or 
months, and then left the "Free Grant Lands" thoroiLghly 
discouraged and frequently half famished. However, there 
w.as still another class of these early adventurers who went 
into this wild wilderness — this land of beautifid lakes and 
hills — possessed of strong hands and strong wills, fully 
determined to make a home for themselves ; and these 
have battled bravely ; have won, and to them belongs the 
spoils. It was to this class that the gentleman whom I met 
on the boat belonged. He supplied me with much valu- 
able information in regard to the early history of the 
country about Lakes Muskoka and Rosseau, — a district 
which is now fairly settled, and where the necessaries, with 
many of the luxuries, of life are now enjoyed by its inhab- 
itants. 

This gentleman, like the old soldier or sailor whom we 
occasionally meet, was delighted with the opportunity that 
was now offered him to detail to me his struggles and his 
successes ; and I was likewise highly pleased with the in- 
formation whicii he imparted. A process similar to that 



ii6 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

which I have just described, in connection with the lands 
about these lakes, is now going on in the adjacent terri- 
tory, although I think the Canadian government -is giving 
more assistance to these struggling pioneers. 

Assistance is afforded to the immigrants by the erection 
of a house at various points along the canoe routes, where 
provisions are stored, and where the weary traveller is 
permitted to halt and refresh himself until able once more 
to move forward. Important assistance is also afforded to 
these early settlers by the government in the construction 
of wagon roads, which open up the forest soon after the 
advance of the pioneers, and the establishment of schools 
and post-offices wherever demanded by the representative 
heads of five families. It will thus be observed that the 
pioneer has no just cause for complaint against the gov- 
ernment at the present day. 

Having portrayed some of the stern realities of life in 
these regions, we will now turn to a viore romantic occur- 
rence, which we are informed was enacted on Lake Ros- 
seau and other neio^'hborinor lakes durine the summer of 
18S4. A young gentleman, the son of the pioneer whom I 
met on the steamboat " Nippissing," had determined to take 
to himself a wife. He had been employed several years 
as a clerk in a banking-house at Toronto, and it was in 
this city that he met the young lady whom he subsequently 
married. In order that the marriage might be in keeping 
with the honeymoon, it had been decided that it should be 
celebrated on a orreen-clad island in the centre of Lake 
Rosseau, — the same beautiful sheet of water near which 
he made his first appearance, as an infant, to the great 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 87 

delight of his father's heart, just twenty-five years prior to 
this nuptial celebration, which occurred on the twenty-fifth 
day of June, 1884. Very little preparation had been made 
on the island, or, in fact, was needed for the proper cele- 
bration of this important event, since the underbrush was 
not, at any point, dense ; consequently the assembled 
guests could pass readily from one part of the beautiful 
grove to another without that inconvenience that other- 
wise might have been felt, especially by the ladies in the 
party. The trees growing on this island consisted prin- 
cipally of five varieties : near the water's edge were seen 
the graceful tamarack and the beautiful balsam, while 
risino- hieh above the others and near its centre were 
observed three great white pines, and these were sur- 
rounded by a heavy growth of white and yellow birch- 
trees. 

The appearance of the island has changed very little 
since the first settlers paddled their birch-bark canoes 
throuQrh the clear waters of Lake Rosseau. 

Fire, the great destroyer of the primitive beauty of 
the surrounding forest, had left this spot untouched, and 
here stood to-day the same giant trees which forty years 
ago had served the groom's father as the beacon-guide to 
his forest home. Great changes during this period had 
been wrought on the shores of Lake Rosseau ; the set- 
tlers at various places had made clearings and built for 
themselves the primitive log cabins, which had, in some 
cases, passed away, giving place to beautiful frame cot- 
tages. Much of the remaininor wilderness has been 
burned over, killing the great forest-trees, which were. 



88 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

however, still standing, speaking to us, like the Egyptian 
pyramids, of the times that have passed ; and these dead 
trunks without branches are now surrounded by young, 
living trees, which have sprung up subsequently to these 
fires. Other changes had already been inaugurated, but 
not by the sturdy pioneer ; these originated with the city 
denizens, who have selected certain choice spots on which 
they have erected summer-homes. 

We have thus carefully described the island and its sur- 
roundings prior to inviting the reader to witness with us 
the joyful ceremony which was just about to be performed 
in this romantic spot. The appointed day was at hand; the 
sun was journeying rapidly towards the western horizon ; it 
was already three o'clock ; the hour of four had been fixed 
for the performance of the ceremony, and our informant 
had determined to be on the spot in time to witness the 
arrival of the bride and groom, who, with their city friends, 
were expected to come on the steamboat, which would land 
them on the island. The other invited guests, living about 
the lake, were expected to come in such boats, canoes, etc., 
as they possessed. Soon after three o'clock there could 
have been seen approaching the island several small row- 
boats, a half-dozen canoes, and a single dug-out. Each boat 
carried several persons, males and females, young and old, 
attired in their holiday suits : these boats contained the 
more wealthy class of pioneers with their families. The 
occupants of the canoes were chiefly males and belonged 
to the huntincr classes. These hunters were for the most 
part attired in hunting-coats, which were ornamented with 
much fringe, thus displaying a characteristic of the original 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 89 

inhabitant of these grand forests, and this was further imi- 
tated by the bidght colors shoiun in the various articles of 
dress, especially in the needle-work that ornamented their 
moccasins. 

The solitary occupant of the dug-out was a poor im- 
migrant, who had but recently arrived in this country in 
order to avail himself of the " Free Grant Lands," and 
likewise settle near his brother, who had preceded him 
twenty years, having settled on this lake in 1864. It was 
half-past three o'clock when the steamboat was descried 
approaching the island from the direction of Toronto. At 
this moment many of the invited guests residing about the 
lake had effected a landino^. The boats and canoes of 
these were drawn well on tein^a firma, while there was still 
a certain number of the small water-craft to be seen on 
the lake. 

The point selected for the landing of the steamboat 
was well chosen. It was directly in front of a large, flat 
rock, which extended from the water's edge back several 
rods into the forest, while its width was about one-third of 
its length. The upper surface of this rock did not rise at 
any point materially above the surface of the surrounding 
earth, while the water in front of it was now more than 
six feet deep, enabling the steamer to approach, run out 
its ordinary gang-plank, and deliver its passengers with- 
out the slightest danger, having been previously made fast 
by means of ropes to two balsam-trees which were stand- 
ing in convenient positions. This steamboat had been the 
principal object of attention by all parties assembled on 
the island, from the moment when she was first sighted in 



go THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

the distance until they greeted her arrival at this point. 
Especially had the group seated on her upper forward 
deck been the object of attention. This party was com- 
posed of an equal number of neatly-clad males and fe- 
males, who had seated themselves in chairs, that had been 
arranged more or less regularly around the central figures, 
— the bride and groom. 

This company was composed mainly of the bride's 
relatives who resided in the vicinity of Toronto. The 
bride was, this day, the most important personage in the 
whole party, and therefore entitled to a brief description 
at our hands, although our informant was not able to give 
us all the information that we desired, especially that which, 
related to her trousseau, and therefore our readers must 
pardon the omission of much which would certainly serve 
to embellish this part of our story. The bride had just 
attained her twentieth birthday, and had received, through 
the careful attention of her parents, a sound education. 
It had been their strongly-cherished desire to prepare her 
for the stern duties of life rather than to give her a mere 
smattering of those branches of learning that are merely 
ornamental, and often learned only to be forgotten a few 
months after leaving the recitation-room. She had, there- 
fore, been thoroughly trained by her mother in the man- 
agement of household affairs, even without neglecting the 
highly-important lessons in domestic economy. She like- 
wise possessed a thorough English education, having 
shown in school a great aptness for mathematical studies, 
in which she particularly excelled. 

In personal appearance she was comely without being 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



91 



a remarkable beauty. She had been a great favorite with 
the gentlemen, but no man lived who could truthfully as- 
sert that she had ever flirted. Her figure was symmet- 
rical and her movements graceful. She stood about five 
feet and ten inches, attired as she was on the day that she 
was married. She belonged to that class of beauties com- 
monly designated as brunettes, having a dark complexion, 
black hair, brown eyes, and a well-rounded face. Her 
forehead was moderately high and rather broad. The 
eyes were of medium size, full, and when in repose wore 
a kindly expression, but were capable, under excitement, 
of expressing the deepest love or the most intense hatred. 
The nose was rather long, but shapely ; mouth only of 
medium size; chin well rounded and not too prominent. 
It will not now surprise the reader when informed that this 
lady's countenance, in repose, seemed only moderately 
attractive, but when lighted up with strong excitement it 
became divinely expressive. The groom, who now sat at 
her side, w^as tall and rather slender, his figure erect, bear- 
ing dignified, movements slightly awkward, while the ex- 
pression of his countenance wanted a little in that firmness 
and force which characterized the bride's. He w-as fully 
six feet in height, having a light complexion, light-brown 
hair, light-blue eyes, which were slightly sunken, thin face, 
with thin straggling side-whiskers, a small nose, moderately 
large mouth, and a slightly-receding chin and forehead. 
We have now given the reader as much of the personality 
of the bride and groom as will amply suffice for this 
occasion. In the matter of dress, w^e can only say that 
the groom wore a soft felt hat, and that not a single silk 



92 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



hat was to be seen in the whole party. The ladies were 
neatly attired for the occasion, but silk and satin dresses 
were conspicuous only by their entire absence. Bright- 
colored ribbons and good cheer prevailed among the as- 
sembled females. Let us now return to the landing of the 
guests whom we have carefully surveyed on the steamer's 
deck. The moment this vessel had been made fast the 
party seated on the upper deck arose and descended to 
the gang-plank, over which they passed, the ladies resting 
gracefully on the arms of their escorts, the bride and 
groom being the third couple to land. The party passed 
forward over the smooth but gradually ascending surface 
of the rock, which has already been described, in the same 
order they had left the steamer, until they were hidden in 
the grove. The moment they stepped from this rock they 
found the earth covered with a thick layer of beautiful 
moss, extending in every direction about them for many 
rods, while in front there had been arranged an elegant 
arch, formed by entwining the branches of two neighboring 
trees, and this bower had been handsomely decorated with 
wild flowers, conspicuous among which were the wild roses 
that abound along the shores of this lake. When the first 
couple reached this spot they halted, the lady dropped the 
arm of her escort and passed to the right, the gentleman 
passing to the left; then each faced about towards the 
landing-place, thus making room for the others who formed 
under the beautiful arch. The bride and eroom were the 
third couple to take their place in nature's bower, and 
when they had faced towards the lake there were now seen 
standing to the right of the bride three fair ladies, while 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 93 

the groom was supported on his left by the same number 
of gentlemen. The invited guests now faced the bride 
and groom. At this moment there appeared before them 
an old gentleman wearing the official robes of an Epis- 
copal clergyman, holding in his hand a book. The cere- 
mony is quickly performed, congratulations are in order; 
many voices are heard on every side, but there was no 
formal wedding reception. Baskets are brought forward, — 
their contents quickly arranged on the linen which had 
been spread for this purpose on the green moss, and all 
this joyous party now partake of the refreshments, giving 
to the assemblage the appearance of a grand picnic in 
nature's grandest forest. All things must end, and so did 
this grand festival. Night was approaching, and the in- 
vited guests must return ; but we must look a little further 
after the newly-wedded couple. Before the steamer took 
her departure from the island the deck-hands had been 
observed to bring on shore a beautiful Peterborough 
canoe, and others soon followed who carried two leather 
valises, two camp-stools, and several bundles. All these 
various articles had been temporarily deposited on the rock 
near the water's edgfe. 

The remnants of the refreshments havino- been o^ath- 
ered up and replaced in the baskets, a party of men are 
seen to go down to the canoe, seize hold of the 'bundles, 
valises, camp-stools, etc., and bring them forward to the 
arch, beneath which was quickly erected a new, beautiful, 
and commodious tent. A balsam bed was quickly made 
within it, and the other household goods properly ar- 
ranged. The invited guests soon take their leave of the 



94 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. 



newly-wedded pair; the steamer takes its departure from 
the rock, where it had remained in waiting for th-e pas- 
sengers. The bride and orroom have come to the water's 
edge to receive the parting salutes of their friends ; the 
row-boats, canoes, and the dug-out have all withdrawn 
from the island, and the wedded pair have retired from 
the lake-shore to the bridal bower, where they remained 
the sole occupants of this island for about forty-eight 
hours. They then started on an extended and novel 
wedding-tour, which lasted some six weeks, during which 
period they travelled more than one thousand miles on 
these mountain lakes. The Peterborough canoe, which 
has already been mentioned, served as the vehicle for their 
journeyings, and the handsome tent which was erected on 
the island soon after the performance of the marriage cere- 
mony was their bridal-chamber. They spent only a small 
portion of their honeymoon on Lake Rosseau, but passed 
from one mountain lake to another, the husband transport- 
ing the canoe and other luggage on the portages, while the 
wife walked at his side, or more frequently followed behind 
him in true Indian style. Thus they journeyed from lake 
to lake, visiting the pioneer villages situated on these 
beautiful bodies of water for the purpose of purchasing 
such supplies as their frugal mode of life required. Here, 
on the lakes of this wild mountain country, in the bright 
summer months of June and July, they continued to bask 
in sunshine and love, undisturbed by the rude and unsym- 
pathetic crowds that are often met with on the ordinary 
highways of travel. 

We find it impossible, while contemplating the wander- 







[ [I H^TI'l 



A wedding in the wilderness. 



96 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

ings of the newly-wedded pair in this wild and romantic 
region, to refrain from following with our imagination the 
ancient Huron and his new-made wife. If we go back only 
a few decades in the history of this country we find it in the 
possession of a mighty tribe of Indians, — the Hurons, who 
were ruthlessly destroyed by their implacable enemy, the 
Iroquois. 

However, if we believe the history which has been 
transmitted to us, we find very little in the relation of these 
scenes that would be pleasing to the reader in this con- 
nection. " Female life among the Hurons had no bright 
side. It was a youth of license, an age of drudgery." It 
must, therefore, be apparent to any one that a comparison 
here would be odious, and consequently we will now bid 
adieu to the newly-wedded pair. In the contemplation of 
that which we have written on this subject, the inquiry forces 
itself upon us, Why have the names of these interesting 
persons been omitted while other details have been given ? 
In reply to this inquiry the author would say that it was 
the father of the groom who gave him most of the points 
that have been here interwoven in this narrative, and there- 
Yore he withholds the names by request of his informant. 
Furthermore, it will be observed that this story, involving a 
marriage and a wedding-tour, is only a wild flower, plucked 
from our pathway through the wilderness, presented to the 
reader for momentary gratification ; but it forms no es- 
sential part of the general character of this book. Pardon, 
therefore, our digression, and go with us to the Mountain 
House in the village of Rosseau, where we arrived about 
six o'clock on the evening of the 22d of September. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 97 

It was in the office of this hotel that I first observed 
Mr. Struce, of Brooklyn, New York, whom I recognized 
as a sportsman by his dress, and the fact that he was car- 
rying a gun. This gentleman afterwards became a mem- 
ber of our party, and remained with us a few days while 
we were encamped on Lake Ahmic, near Maganetawan 
village. The hotel at which we were stopping, now the 
only one at this point, was the resort of all the loungers 
of the village as well as travellers. 

The evening meal was served in the dining-room soon 
after our arrival, and there seemed to be about thirty 
guests in the hotel. 

Experience had already taught me that it is very diffi- 
cult to advance from this point into the forest if you are 
burdened with more than ten or twelve pounds of lug- 
gage, and consequently at an early hour in the evening I 
began to make inquiry in regard to a conveyance to take 
us to Maganetawan village, situated about thirty-seven 
miles from this place. 

I learned at the hotel-office that a stage, now owned 
and driven by a Mr. Bess, would leave for Maganetawan 
the next morning, arriving at its destination some time in 
the evening of the same day. The proprietor of this line 
was soon pointed out to me, and in answer to my question, 
" Can you take us to Maganetawan to-morrow ?" he in- 
quired, " How much baggage have you ?" I informed him 
that we had about one hundred and fifty pounds. He 
immediately replied, " I cannot take your baggage to-mor- 
row ; but I can take you and your companion, and will 
deliver your baggage for you at Maganetawan village 

7 



9S THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

within one week, at an extra charge of six dollars." The 
regular stage fare for a passenger between these points is 
a dollar and fifty cents, while for four times that amount 
the accommodating stage-owner was willing to transport 
for us, provided we allowed him one week in which to do 
the work, one hundred and fifty pounds of baggage. I 
urged this stage-driver very strongly to provide some 
means by which our-baggage would reach Maganetawan 
the next day ; was willing to give him the additional six 
dollars, but he positively refused. In fact, he showed no 
disposition to aid us in our efforts, and said that he already 
had as many passengers, who had engaged seats in his 
stage, as he could conveniently carry. This disinclination 
to accommodate travellers seemed to me very strange and 
entirely incomprehensible ; but a subsequent investigation 
supplied me with a partial explanation. This man, Bess, 
through political influence, had secured the contract to 
carry the mail on that line, but inasmuch as he was en- 
tirely wanting in enterprise, he had neglected to provide 
for the accommodation of the travelling public. The ex- 
planation of how he could afford to carry passengers over 
the line for one dollar and fifty cents, while he demanded 
four times as much for transporting the same weight in 
baggage, is possibly found in the fact that the accommo- 
dations for passengers within his stage are so bad that all 
passengers are compelled, in self-interest, to walk at least 
three-fourths of the whole distance. It will, therefore, be 
observed that the one dollar and fifty cents paid by a 
passenger really entitles him to ride only about nine miles 
on the Queen's highway in Bess's stage. This stage was 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 99 

owned and managed, in the autumn of 1880, by a good- 
natured and accommodating German, familiarly called 
" Chris," of whom I shall have something to say hereafter. 
My attempt to negotiate for the transportation of my 
party and our luggage with Mr. Bess ended in a failure. 
Further inquiry at the hotel-office afforded nothing satis- 
factory. It is true I learned that there was no one living 
in the village, owning horses, who would be willing to take 
us to our destination. This was not in the least encour- 
aging. I was determined, however, to go forward on the 
following day if it were possible. I made inquiry in re- 
gard to the feasibility of obtaining a team or transportation 
from some farmer living in the vicinity. The first objection 
made to this plan by the bystanders was, " You will find 
it impossible to get a messenger to go into the country 
among the farmers to-night ; it is too late," although it 
was not yet ten o'clock. I had already been more than 
two hours engaged in my efforts to secure transportation, 
but without success. At this moment I discovered Chris, 
and immediately approached him, when he extended his 
hand and asked if I was out on another hunting expedi- 
tion. I answered in the affirmative, and then made known 
to him my pressing wants. He said, " I am here with my 
old team, but my wagon is already loaded with merchan- 
dise for Maganetawan, some portions of which is in urgent 
demand." I saw that here was my only chance. Chris 
would like very much to oblige me ; it was not easy for 
him to say " no." He told me that within a few weeks he 
had been very unfortunate, — his dwelling-house had been 
burned, with all his household furniture; that a portion of 



lOO THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

the load on his wagon at the present time was window- 
o-lass intended for the new domicile that he was now 
erecting. I inquired, "What will you charge to take us 
with our lueeaofe to Mae^anetawan to-morrow ?" He re- 
plied, " It is worth about six dollars, but I don't think I can 
do it to-morrow." I observed that his manner was some- 
what hesitating. Chris was not entirely satisfied with him- 
self and his answer. I said to him, " Chris, remove your 
load and take us to Maganetawan to-morrow, and I will give 
you twelve dollars for the job." A smile came over his 
face ; it was evident that I had won. In a few moments 
he said, " The load shall come off my wagon and you shall 
be in Maganetawan to-morrow night. What hour do you 
wish to start?" I said, "You may suit yourself in that 
matter." He replied, "All right; let us get away from 
here very early. I will call you at four o'clock." 

It was about fifteen minutes after four when Chris 
knocked at my door the next morning. I was then already 
dressed, and so was the photographer, who had occupied 
the room with me during the night. We followed Chris 
down-stairs and there found Mr. Struce, who was at this 
moment standing with his gun in hand ready to accompany 
us. We had not yet spoken together ; he had learned 
that Chris was engaged to take myself and the artist to 
Maganetawan, and had determined to accompany us. He 
had already made an arrangement with Chris, and was 
now ready to start, instead of waiting for the Bess stage 
until a late hour. He greeted us pleasantly when we came 
into his presence that morning, saying, " Good-morning, 
gentlemen. I have determined to travel with you to-day, 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. iqi 

unless you have some objection." I promptly assured 
him that we should be very happy to have his company, 
especially as I recognized him as a brother sportsman. 
Here began a very pleasant acquaintance. 



I02 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE, 



CHAPTER VI. 

Our Departure from Rosseau — A Charming Morning and a Healthful 
Walk — Camped near Spence — Incidents which occurred there — Joined 
BY our Guides — Camped on Birch Island — Camp-Life on Ahmic Lake — 
Struce starts for Home — The Balance of the Party off on a Long 
Tramp — The Beaver's Trysting-Places — The Photographer's Sport near 
Burk's Falls — Plodding through Woods after Dark — The Youthful 
Driver — Arrival at Sphynx Shoot. 




^^T was nearly five o'clock on the morning of 
the 23d of September when our party took 
their departure from Rosseau. The dark- 
~ ness of night still enshrouded the earth ; 
the air was cold and chilly, while the 
ground was covered with a heavy 
frost. Chris's old gray horses, which 
are now at least twenty-one years of 
age, moved forward just as well as 
they did four years ago when I rode behind them over the 
same route. The morning is so chilly that Chris, Struce, 
and Mildenberger prefer to walk rather than ride in this 
wagon, which is not supplied with springs, over the rocky 
mountain road. I have, therefore, at the request of Chris, 
mounted the driver's seat, wrapped myself in the horse- 
blankets, seized the reins and whip, and am thus duly in- 
stalled in this new position. 

The photographer and Mr. Struce very soon disap- 
peared in the darkness after leaving the hotel, but Chris 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 103 

remained near the team to give me such instruction as was 
needed to pass the team safely over this road. The cold 
was so severe and the road so rough that, having ridden 
about three miles, I called on Chris to resume the charge 
of his team, while I was now ready to follow the example 
of my companions. The gray dawn of the morning had 
made its appearance in place of the dim starlight that pre- 
vailed at the time we started from Rosseau. Having 
transferred the reins to Chris I descended from the driver's 
seat, passed to the front of the team, and started forward 
at a lively pace, determined to quickly overtake Struce and 
Mildenberger. 

It was probably about half an hour before I caught 
sight of my companions, who were still about a mile ahead 
of me, and moving forward at good speed, while the sun 
was now shining brightly, lighting up the hill-tops, causing 
the frozen drops of water, which were clinging to the 
branches of leafless trees, to sparkle with the resplendent 
beauty of pure diamonds in a bright gas-light. The 
grandeur of this scene afforded me the purest joy. I 
inhaled this mountain air — loaded with ozone — as the 
hungry man partakes of the choicest viands. The rapid 
step at which I was moving forward caused me to expel, 
in the first part of my journey, the old residuary air with 
which the lungs of evejy sedentary person are more or less 
filled^ thereby enabling me to seize and appropiHate a very 
large quantity of this grand at^nospheric stimulant, which 
now caused the blood to course rapidly through every part of 
the body, producing a joyotis thrill in every fibre. 

In this mental and physical condition it was a pleasure 



I04 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



to move rapidly forward. The reader will not, therefore, 
be surprised when informed that I soon found myself in 
the company of my companions, who had taken the lead 
immediately after our departure from the hotel at Rosseau. 
We now journeyed on together, and reached the " Ten- 
Mile Lake Hotel" before eight o'clock. Here we ordered 
breakfast, which was to be served as soon as Chris should 
arrive with his team and our baggage. My companions 
had walked this morning, without food or stimulants, ex- 
cept that supplied by an invigorating atmosphere, ten 
miles. I had walked seven and did not feel fatigued. It 
was more than an hour after our arrival here before 
Chris came up with his team. 

The long journey had fully prepared us to enjoy the 
breakfast, which consisted, principally, of delicious venison, 
pure country butter, home-made bread, coffee, and wild 
honey. I am sure that our entire party, this morning, 
thought our breakfast good enough for a king. 

Every article of food placed before us was of excellent 
quality, and the serving could not have been improved. 
We complimented the hostess on her excellent table ; she 
thanked us kindly, and, having probably learned that we 
hailed from the United States, then inquired if any one in 
our party was acquainted in New Hampshire, which, she 
now informed us, was her native place. We were com- 
pelled to answer her inquiry in the negative, but she now 
volunteered the information that she had only lived in 
Canada since her marriage. 

We had already spent at this wayside hotel more than 
two hours ; the sun was still shining brightly, but it was 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 105 

necessary for us to go forward in order that we might 
reach the end of our journey this day before nightfall. 
We were now about twenty-seven miles from Maganet- 
awan, and nearly twenty-one from Spence, the home of 
Captain George Ross, whom I had engaged as our chief 
guide. It is not yet certain whether we shall remain to- 
night at Spence or go on to Maganetawan, inasmuch as I 
have not consulted with the captain in regard to our future 
movements. The team plodded steadily along the moun- 
tain-road to-day. Neither Mr. Struce nor Mildenberger 
have ridden in the wagon. They started on foot and so 
continue to journey on. 

It was about three o'clock when we arrived at Spence, 
a small hamlet, consisting of a wayside hotel, post-office, 
and about half a dozen log cabins. We halted at the hotel 
for our dinner, while Chris took this opportunity to feed his 
team. Immediately after our arrival I succeeded in finding 
a messenger, whom I sent to Captain Ross's residence, 
which is situated about one-half mile from the hotel, with 
instructions to bring him to me. The messenger returned, 
after an absence of about forty minutes, accompanied by a 
young man, who informed me that the captain was away 
from home, engaged in a deer-hunt, but would certainly 
return within a few hours, as he was expecting the arrival 
of my party on the following day. After a brief con- 
sultation with the young man, who informed me that 
he was now staying at the captain's house, and had re- 
ceived instructions prior to the captain's departure that 
should we arrive during his absence he — the young man 
— was to make us comfortable, I determined to halt at 



I06 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

this place, or near It, and await the return of our guide. 
The dinner being finished we again started forward, after 
having spent about an hour and a half at the hotel. We 
camped this night in the woods near the roadside, about 
one mile from the hotel at Spence where we had dined, and 
about five miles from the village of Maganetawan, while 
our tent was now standing within forty rods of Ahmic Lake. 

The young man who has already been mentioned as 
having reported to me on the return of the messenger 
whom I had sent for the captain, after my arrival at Spence, 
was now with us. He had brought with him from the cap- 
tain's cabin an axe, which is so necessary in a hunter's 
camp. Five rrtinutes after our arrival on the ground where 
we had determined to camp, it was plainly evident to me 
that my new-made friend was not a novice at this sort of 
work. He knew exactly what was necessary to be done, 
and was not slow in giving assistance. It required but a 
few minutes to erect our tent and make all the needed 
preparations for the night ; but this had scarcely been com- 
pleted when the rain commenced to fall, although the sky 
had been cloudless when we arrived at the hotel in Spence. 
The young man proposed to bring us our suppers from the 
captain's cabin, but this was deemed unnecessary by the 
whole party, inasmuch as we had partaken of our dinner at 
a late hour. 

The first night under the canvas was spent very com- 
fortably, while a bright fire burned in front of our open tent 
until lonof after midniofht. Notwithstandinof the fact that a 
heavy rain-storm had set in, we remained perfectly dry and 
serenely happy. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 107 

September 24. — The rain is still falling. The young 
man who was instructed by the captain to look after us 
during his absence was in camp with our breakfast soon 
after seven o'clock this morning. He came provided with 
the necessary cooking utensils to serve it hot. Having 
completed our breakfast, the photographer took up my Bal- 
lard rifle and asked the young man to accompany him to 
the lake. He had not been absent from the tent five min- 
utes when I heard the report of the gun ; other shots fol- 
lowed this ; seven had soon been fired. There was a lapse 
of probably about three minutes after the last report was 
heard when Mildenberger made his appearance before the 
tent asking for a shot-gun, saymg at the same time, excitedly, 
" / have jttst fired five shots at a partridge sitting on a tree, 
and the young ma7t has fired tiuo ; the bird has not moved, 
and I dont believe she knozvs that she is wanted!' It has 
previously been mentioned that Mildenberger had served 
in the artillery with the German army during the Franco- 
Prussian war, but these shots failed to convince us that he 
was skilled in the use of the rifle. In fact, other observa- 
tions forced the conclusion that he had not, prior to this, 
been accustomed to the use of even a shot-gun. He 
proved, however, to be a very apt scholar in these matters, 
and before he left the woods he was quite an expert in the 
use of both the shot-eun and rifle. I saw him with the 
shot-gun handsomely drop birds on the wing, while with the 
rifle he could occasionally knock off a partridge's head with- 
out injuring its body. At the particular time when he 
required a shot-gun to compel the partridge to recognize 
that she was wanted, the bird — it is thought — became im- 



I08 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. 

patient, since Mildenberger has not yet succeeded in finding 
her, although he has made long and diligent search. 

The phrase, "I don't believe she knows that she is 
wanted," became one of very common use in our party, 
and was applied on all occasions when the game remained 
uninjured after a shot was fired. 

The rain continued to fall until about ten o'clock, when 
the clouds showed some signs of breaking, and the sun 
occasionally peeped out through an open space, although 
there was very little clear sky visible during the day. 
Struce and Mildenberger succeeded in taking some fine 
bass in Ahmic Lake duringf the afternoon. I took a stroll 
through the wood, accompanied by two cocker-spaniels, 
which are to take part with us in this campaign. I was not 
fortunate in finding game : saw only a single bird. 

Captain Ross and his nephew made their appearance 
in our camp before sunset. The captain greeted me 
pleasantly. We had not met during the preceding four 
years, and as he now stood before me he appeared the 
same as when I parted with him at Spence, in the autumn 
of 1880, after we had finished that hunt. 

He now introduced us to his nephew, George Ross, and 
informed me that he had engaged this man to accompany 
us as a guide. Struce and Mildenberger were made ac- 
quainted with these men who were to become members of 
our party. It had also been previously agreed between 
Struce and myself that an additional guide would be at 
least desirable as long as Mr. Struce remained in our party. 
I therefore made inquiry of the captain about his brother, 
Wellington, with whom I was somewhat acquainted, know- 




tSMJ""-^ 



" I don't believe she knows that she is wanted." 



no THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

ing that no better guide could be found in the region of 
Maganetawan. He replied, " I think Wellington will be 
able to be with us after a few days." 

The captain, with the assistance of his nephew, made 
all the necessary arrangements for the night. Wood was 
provided, supper prepared, and the captain's tent put up. 
In the mean time it has been arranged that a deer-hunt 
shall take place to-morrow on Ahmic Lake. The guides 
will now remain constantly with us in camp ; this will be a 
marked improvement, and will add much to our happiness 
and comfort. 

The party, as now arranged, consists of five persons, 
and we are provided with five dogs, — two of them intended 
to be employed in deer-hunting, while three are cocker- 
spaniels, used only in bird-shooting. The following morn- 
ing the sport commenced at an early hour, and we were 
back in our camp before eleven o'clock. Struce and my- 
self, with the guides, had hunted deer, while Mildenberger 
had started out in search of ruffed erouse. 

The sport opened this morning fairly well. Struce shot 
a fawn, Mildenberger killed four partridges, and I took 
some bass while on the way to the point, where I was 
stationed by the captain to watch for deer. 

A good dinner was served for us by our guides on our 
return to camp. We had brought into camp some delica- 
cies, and likewise tin plates, tin cups, etc. ; consequently 
our table and culinary department were quickly placed on 
a sound basis. The camp which we had formed by the 
wayside, immediately after our arrival, was thought to be 
no longer desirable, and consequently our guides moved 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. m 

our quarters, on the afternoon of September 25, to Birch 
Island, which is situated in Lake Ahmic. 

The photographer was at the same time engaged in 
taking- some views on this lake, while I was absent search- 
ing for ruffed grouse. We were joined in the evening by 
Wellington Ross, who now becomes a member of our party. 
The sport went on, from day to day, in about the same 
manner as has been already detailed. The evenings were 
passed very pleasantly before the camp-fire ; the captain 
and his brother, although very modest men, have had a 
large experience in hunting and trapping, and they narrate 
this experience in a quaint and quiet way, after we finally 
succeed in getting them started. 

Wellington has spent a few years on the Pacific coast, 
and describes the sfame and the methods of huntino- in that 
region, as well as the nature of the country, the timber- 
growths, etc. Our friend Struce, who classes himself 
among the amateur sportsmen of the United States, has 
certainly sufficient experience to enable him, in camp, to 
add his full quota to the enjoyment of a party of hunters. 
He tells a bear story well, although he does not even claim to 
have hunted bruin. The captain has killed several bears, 
but these animals with which he came in contact and 
slaughtered were, apparently, very well behaved, and died 
without making any unusual fuss about it. 

Thus day after day was passed in hunting and fishing 
and social intercourse around the camp-fire ; but at last our 
friend Struce decided that he could remain no lono-er with 
us, and that the next day he must take his departure for 
Brooklyn. It had been intended by the whole party that 



112 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

our photographer should take a camp picture prior to this 
separation. That design, however, was frustrated by a 
pouring rain that continued during the whole day prior to 
his departure, September 29. This morning was clear and 
bright. We were up and stirring before it was fairly light. 
Having breakfasted. Captain Ross and Struce started for 
Spence, where the latter expected to meet the stage from 
Maganetawan, which was to take him to Rosseau on his 
way home. The captain's deer-dogs have not been in 
camp for the past twenty-four hours. I speak of the 
captain's d^^^r-dogs instead of employing the word hounds, 
for the reason that there is not a drop of hound blood in 
their veins. These dogs are really mongrels, although I 
presume the collie breed predominates. The collie breed 
is highly praised by all the backwoodsmen with whom I 
have come in contact in Canada. He is praised as a val- 
uable house-dog, an excellent dog with cattle, and when 
trained to run deer some claim to think him even superior 
to the hound. 

The captain's dogs were certainly very good animals. 
When placed on a deer's track they seldom failed to run 
him to water, but the one fault which I desire here to men- 
tion with regard to this entire breed of dogs is, that when 
used in hunting deer they give very little " tongue." This 
07ie defect in the dog deprives the sportsman of the ex- 
citement and pleasure which he would otherwise feel in 
listening to the voice of the running hound. To my ear 
there are few sounds more charming, I listen eagerly to 
this music in order to determine the approach of the deer, 
and the hound's loud voice on a cool, frosty morning, 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



113 



although It may be only faintly heard, serves to make the 
blood course more rapidly through my veins, while at the 
same time it cheers my spirits and warms my body. Give 
me, therefore, the musical hound in deer-hunting, instead 
of the best collie ever imported from old Scotland. 

The captain has gone in search of his pets. Wellington 
and George Ross are packing the camp equipage this 
morning, that we may be off for Burk's Falls. An ac- 
quaintance of the guides, whom they address as " Isaacs," 
has made his appearance in our camp. He is out search- 
ing for a lost dog. He is urged by the guides to take a 
hand in our moving, and finally consents. Therefore a por- 
tion of luggage was placed in his bateau for transportation 
to Maganetawan, which we reached about half-past nine 
o'clock, having travelled this morning in our canoe about 
three miles. 

These canoes and our luggage were placed on the little 
river steamer "Pioneer," which is to take us up the Maga- 
netawan River to Burk's Falls, distant from this village 
about thirty-five miles. 

The captain made his appearance soon after our lug- 
gage had been loaded on the little steamer, but he had not 
succeeded in finding his lost dogs. He is, therefore, com- 
pelled to remain behind and make further search for the 
animals, which are indispensable in hunting deer at this 
season of the year, when the trees are still covered with 
leaves. The loss of deer-hounds or other dogs that are 
employed in deer-hunting is not an infrequent occurrence, 
and commonly happens by the dogs continuing to follow a 
deer to some distant lake. The reader will readily per- 



114 



THE SPORTS.SfAS'S PAftAP/SF 



ccivc by wlut lus already been said tliat i))c deer docs not 
aluk-ays come to the exact spot at which the s|K3rtsman is 
statiorRtl. or even to the lake at which he is wantcil. 

Few doj;» |x>**cs» sufficient sagacity to return on 
their own trail and thus reach their master. I have seen 
only a single animal that would uniformly follow out this 
course. Tliat dog. an animal called "Fan." uas the prog- 
eny of Dr. Pokomey, and lias already been described io 
this book. 

When tlie captain reached us. he soon learned that 
his brother had gone to liis house in the village of Maga- 
nrtawan. and he promptly started to fmd him. in order that 
WcUinj^'ion might accom|uny us in his (tlie captain's) 
place. This arrangement may last only a few days, or it 
may be a week before the capuin's search will be rewarded 
by finding his lost pets. \Vc left Maganeuwan about 
ele\'en o'clock in the morning, and reached Uurk's Falls 
before four o'clock p.m. 

'Hie scenery along this ri%'er is certainly very* pictur- 
es<|ue. The banks arc covered with heavy forest-trees, 
and there are aquatic plants and ^ growing in the 

shallow water along the shore. I r.r- .intmint of clearing 
along the Ijanks of this river, seen from the decks of our 
liti!' st- i.iv r was VfTV lirnii* d in the autumn of 1884. 

the NfaganetatA-an in com- 
pany with the author, in iS8<x (lointcd out to us tlie ver>' 
spot where several years ago he saw his first moose. He 
Irar description of the animal, and did not seem 
well pleased with himself because he had failed to kill the 
monster with ' .e of buckshot, which he gave 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 115 

him with his compliments, this being the best he could do 
under the circumstances. 

It was during this same trip down the river that the 
captain greatly interested me by the description which he 
gave of the beaver " trysting-places." The captain is cer- 
tainly a matter-of-fact man, possessed of no romantic ideas, 
and yet the statements which he made on this occasion 
may seem to savor strongly of fiction, although I am fully 
convinced that he believes in the beaver " trysting-place," 
and in all the details that he has given pertaining to the 
same, including even the acting of the animals. The nar- 
rator commenced by saying that many years ago, while 
travelling through these woods, he discovered a mound 
that had been recently raised by the heaping up of the 
soft earth, the measurements of the same beine about two 
feet in diameter and about six inches in height, while it was 
almost circular in outline. This mound bore the positive 
impress of the animal by which it had been reared, and 
this serves as the beaver's " trysting-place." 

In order that we might understand the nature and 
necessity of the trysting-places, the captain made the fol- 
lowing statement : " It is chiefly in winter that the beavers 
congregate, and then only a single family occupies the 
same lodge or house, although there may be several fami- 
lies living within the waters raised by the dam that has 
been erected by their united efforts. The family may 
consist of a single adult, male and female, or they may 
have with them two, four, six, or eight of their own off- 
spring, which have not yet fully matured. When, however, 
these young beavers are fully grown, they go forth from 



114 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

ceive by what has already been said that the deer does not 
always come to the exact spot at which the sportsman is 
stationed, or even to the lake at which he is wanted. 

Few dogs possess sufficient sagacity to return on 
their own trail and thus reach their master. I have seen 
only a single animal that would uniformly follow out this 
course. That dog, an animal called " Fan," was the prop- 
erty of Dr. Pokorney, and has already been described in 
this book. 

When the captain reached us, he soon learned that 
his brother had gone to his house in the village of Maga- 
netawan, and he prompdy started to find him, in order that 
Wellington might accompany us in his (the captain's) 
place. This arrangement may last only a few days, or it 
may be a week before the captain's search will be rewarded 
by finding his lost pets. We left Maganetawan about 
eleven o'clock in the morning, and reached Burk's Falls 
before four o'clock p.m. 

The scenery along this river is certainly very pictur- 
esque. The banks are covered with heavy forest-trees, 
and there are aquatic plants and bushes growing in the 
shallow water along the shore. The amount of clearing 
along the banks of this river, seen from the decks of our 
little steamer, was very limited in the autumn of 1884. 
Captain Ross, when descending the Maganetawan in com- 
pany with the author, in 1880, pointed out to us the very 
spot where several years ago he saw his first moose. He 
gave us a clear description of the animal, and did not seem 
well pleased with himself because he had failed to kill the 
monster with a single charge of buckshot, which he gave 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. ne 

him with his compliments, this being the best he could do 
under the circumstances. 

It was during this same trip down the river that the 
captain greatly interested me by the description which he 
gave of the beaver " trysting-places." The captain is cer- 
tainly a matter-of-fact man, possessed of no romantic ideas, 
and yet the statements which he made on this occasion 
may seem to savor strongly of fiction, although I am fully 
convinced that he believes in the beaver " trysting-place," 
and in all the details that he has given pertaining to the 
same, including even the acting of the animals. The nar- 
rator commenced by saying that many years ago, while 
travelling through these woods, he discovered a mound 
that had been recently raised by the heaping up of the 
soft earth, the measurements of the same beinof about two 
feet in diameter and about six inches in height, while it was 
almost circular in outline. This mound bore the positive 
impress of the animal by which it had been reared, and 
this serves as the beaver's " trysting-place." 

In order that we might understand the nature and 
necessity of the trysting-places, the captain made the fol- 
lowing statement : " It is chiefly in winter that the beavers 
congregate, and then only a single family occupies the 
same lodge or house, although there may be several fami- 
lies living within the waters raised by the dam that has 
been erected by their united efforts. The family may 
consist of a single adult, male and female, or they may 
have with them two, four, six, or eight of their own off- 
spring, which have not yet fully matured. When, however, 
these young beavers are fully grown, they go forth from 



Il8 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

seeking new homes in this region. It is the natural ter- 
minus of steamboat navigation on the Maganetawan River, 
and there is at this point a very great amount of water- 
power which may be easily made available for manufac- 
turing purposes. In addition to all this, the country about 
here is heavily timbered, and the river enables the lumber- 
man to bring the logs here more cheaply than they can be 
delivered at any other point where they would possess 
the same value. In other words, nature points to this spot 
as the most desirable one in this entire district for the con- 
version of raw material into manufactured products. 

It was about five o'clock when the wagon, loaded with 
our canoes and other luggage, was ready to start from 
Burk's Falls for Sphynx Shoot, which is distant from the 
former place about three miles. The driver of the wagon, 
a boy about twelve years of age, had stood patiently by 
the horse watching the guides while they loaded our bag- 
gage. The moment this work was completed he mounted 
the wagon, found a seat on some of our luggage, and 
began to urge his horse forward. The horse was not 
much younger than the boy, but both performed their share 
of the work satisfactorily, while at the start Wellington 
and George Ross followed the wagon closely to prevent 
damage being done to our luggage. The country through 
which this rough road passes is made up of rocky hills and 
low marshy ground, but at this time, owing to the fact that 
it was unusually dry, we were enabled to traverse it quite 
satisfactorily until the darkness of night began to gather 
about us. 

Mr. Mildenberger, the photographer, had started out 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OE CANADA. 1 1 9. 

slightly in advance of the wagon, accompanied by " Ponto," 
in search of ruffed grouse. He had not been out ten 
minutes when the barking of " Ponto" was heard, and 
within the next five minutes he had fired two shots. A few 
minutes later he returned to the road with " Ponto" at his 
heels. The author was walking some distance in advance 
of the waeon which was loaded with our ba^aaQre, and was 

o 000' 

therefore, at this moment, in full view of our amateur 
sportsman, who drew proudly from his pockets two fine 
birds which he had just shot, having killed them with the 
shot-gun, since he had not become sufficiently expert in the 
use of the rifle to be able to convince a ruffed grouse that 
he " was wanted" when the gun was fired. 

The photographer now sent " Ponto" once more into 
the woods. Soon after a loud and lively barking was 
heard, and our amateur sportsman was again quickly lost 
to our siofht; had eone a^ain into the dense woods that 
form the boundary on either side of the rough country 
road throughout the greater part of the whole distance 
between Burk's Falls and Pickerel Lake. The sound of 
his eun was again heard ; the dos^ soon after this rushed 
once more across our front, but quickly returned to a spot 
not far distant from where the last shot was fired. In a 
few moments the sound of another shot resounded 
throughout the forest ; the photographer is already flushed 
with victory. Shot after shot is heard. Darkness was ap- 
proaching and he was soon compelled to return from the 
woods, because it was so dark that he could no longer see 
the game ; but he was not satisfied, although he had killed 
si.'c beautiful birds in somewhat less than In hour. He 



I20 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

complained that darkness had so soon cut short his 
sport. 

He was now compelled to walk in the centre of the road, 
by the side of the author. Onward they trudged while the 
twilight was rapidly disappearing. The rumbling sounds 
of the wagon were occasionally heard in our rear, while the 
guides were aiding our youthful driver. The stars had be- 
come visible, but the moon had not condescended to make 
her appearance. 

Large trees stood in close proximity to the wagon-path. 
Some had fallen across it. The woodman's axe had in 
some cases cut its way through the trunk of the fallen 
giant of the forest, while the hardy son of toil had rolled 
the obstruction to one side to allow a vehicle to pass. In 
other instances the fallen trunk, being somewhat smaller, 
had not been removed, and the driver was compelled to 
pass over it, or if the condition of the ground at this point 
was favorable, a road would be made around the obstruc- 
tion, while in those cases where a tree had fallen since the 
last vehicle had passed, the driver was left to solve the 
question in accordance with his own judgment. 

Another troublesome condition arose from the frequent 
intersection of this road by the so-called " log roads," — 
roads cut for the purpose of removing the white pine mill- 
logs which had been recently cut in this section. These 
roads resembled greatly the one on which we were now 
travelling, and consequently, in the existing darkness, we 
found ourselves wandering off into these by-roads. In 
order to avoid as far as possible this annoyance, the photog- 
rapher, George Ross, and myself kept in advance, lighting 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 121 

our way as well as we could with matches, moving along 
cautiously, with one or both hands extended before our 
eyes when left in total darkness. In spite of these pre- 
cautions we strayed frequently from the proper road off 
on these by-roads, often calling to each other in order to 
prevent too great separation. In the mean while Welling- 
ton remained by the wagon to assist our youthful driver. 

Nearly two hours had been spent in this toilsome man- 
ner when a shout from the photographer announced the 
glad tidings that he had found a log cabin that was in- 
habited. He called loudly to me ; I shouted back to him, 
having strayed off on a log road about one-fourth of a 
mile from the road leading to Pickerel Lake (the road that 
we wished to follow), but failed to make myself heard by 
Mr. Mildenberger, although I heard him. He had learned 
at the cabin that we were just above Sphynx Shoot, or 
Falls, and that the river was only a few rods from the cabin 
and to the riorht of the road. 

The photographer was now joyful ; he rushed into the 
woods in search of the author, shouting at the top of his 
voice, " This way ! This way !" I soon succeeded in mak- 
ing him understand, and then shouted back to him, " Stand 
where you are !" He did not obey the injunction, but con- 
tinued to advance towards me. We were soon so near 
each other as to be able to speak in an ordinary voice, 
while at the same time we could easily understand each 
other. We finally met, and he conducted me back to the 
cabin. We found this surrounded by a few acres of newly- 
cleared land, the clearing extending to the river, and even 
to the point above the falls that we desired to reach. 



122 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



The wagon, accompanied by Wellington, came up soon- 
after our return, but George Ross could be heard plunging 
through the brush a few rods from the road. He, too, had, 
like myself, strayed off on a wood road, but had heard the 
photographer's shouts, and these guided his return. The 
fence surrounding the clearing was opened so as to allow 
our wagon to enter ; we were bound to reach the river to- 
night. The horse and wagon passed cautiously over the 
cleared fields, while Wellington held his post on the right 
of the wagon, and George had taken a position on the left. 

Our canoes and other luggage had reached the objec- 
tive-point and were quickly taken from the wagon. The 
boy driver had quietly unharnessed his horse and turned 
him loose to graze in the field. The chief cultivated 
articles now remaining ungathered in this clearing were 
the turnips. I asked the boy how he was to get back to 
Burk's Falls to-night. He replied, "I shan't try to get 
back there to-night. Ise going to stay with you all." The 
reply to the brave boy was, " That is right. We will give 
you something to eat, and you can make a bed on the 
ground where we all sleep." 

A large pile of logs was found which had been heaped 
up for burning when the ground was cleared ; but the fire 
had failed to consume them, consequently it was only ne- 
cessary to rearrange them and apply the match. This was 
done ; a grand illumination followed, the field was lighted 
around us, the silvery surface of the idver was nozo visible ; a 
good supper was quickly made ready, a rubber poncho zvas 
spread on the ground and served as a table ; ive ate, drank, 
and were happy. When the meal was finished we spread 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OE CANADA. 



123 



our blankets on the ground, and with the starry canopy 
above us were able to sleep soundly without canvas or any 
other artificial shelter. 

The boy remained with us, enjoying well the food, but 
when our blankets were spread out he showed, by his 
manner, a disinclination to camp in the open air, and soon 
after said, " I think I will go to the cabin ; I have a cousin 
there." He immediately started off, returning a little 
after daylight the next morning. He breakfasted with us, 
harnessed his horse, and was off at an early hour for 
Burk's Falls. 

When thinking of the boy's coolness and forethought, I 
could not avoid comparing him with our city boys of the 
same age, and the only comment which I will here make is, 
that this youthful driver is now receiving an education that 
prepares him thoroughly for a life in this wild country. 







'■^■-^■■'-'^--'--''m^^^Mr< 




^J^^ifiT-LalE-'" ^r" 'V^''^: 



124 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



CHAPTER VII. 

The Movements of our Hunting-Party — ^Crossing the Hor-ka.-por-ka Port- 
age — Fishing in Rock Lake — Another Advance — Deer-Hunting, etc.— 
The Journey from Trout Lake to Long Lake — Camp on Long Lake — 
More Deer-Hunting — An Exciting Contest, in which the Photographer 
Wins. 




ARLY in the morning of September 30 
we were up and stirring. The daylight 
had not yet made its appearance, but the 
pfrand fire kindled last evenino- was still 
^burning brightly. There was a very heavy 
frost last night, but we did not suffer from 
the cold; being wrapped in our blankets we 
slept nicely. The breakfast was prepared 
by our guides ; the photographer and myself had made our 
morning toilets while standing on a rock that projected into 
the river, having brought to this spot soap, towels, tooth- 
brushes, hair-brushes, combs, etc. This labor was per- 
formed in the gray dawn of the morning, and when com- 
pleted we repaired to the breakfast, which had been spread 
for us on the rubber poncho in the usual style. 

The packing of our luggage followed our morning 
meal. The canoes were placed in the water and loaded 
ready for the start. It had been previously decided that 
the photographer and myself should walk through the 
woods to Pickerel Lake, while the guides paddled the 
canoes up the river to the same point. The only diffi- 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 125' 

culty that we anticipated was that of following the stream 
through the wilderness up to the lake. It is true that we 
were provided with a compass, but this instrument pos- 
sessed little value for us here, since there was some ques- 
tion in regard to the direction we ought to take. The lake 
was thought to be distant from Sphynx Falls about five 
miles, and it was considered very desirable to reach it at an 
early hour in the day, in order that we might cross over to 
Mossup's Landing and make a start the same day on the 
crossing of the Hor-ka-por-ka Portage. The guides be- 
fore pushing the canoes from the shore that morning at 
Sphynx Falls gave us such information as they possessed, 
and when the good-by had been said they were off on the 
water, and we turned into the forest. We found some 
ruffed grouse, but no other game during our morning 
tramp. 

We wandered about much in the wilderness, and visited 
the river frequently to determine whether we were travel- 
ling in the right direction. Thus we were enabled to de- 
termine our course, and finally reached Harvey's Bridge, 
hear Pickerel Lake, about one o'clock p.m. 

Few incidents occurred during this long walk, and none 
of sufficient importance to be worthy of mention here. 
The morning was bright and beautiful, but before noon 
clouds had made their appearance and rain began to fall. 
The rain, however, did not continue for more than two 
hours, when the sun reappeared and filled our hearts with 
joy. This walk had been through the woods, including 
swamps and rocky hills, while our pathway was obstructed 
with much fallen timber. 



126 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

We had expected to meet our guides at Harvey's 
Bridge, where they had agreed to await our arrival, should 
they reach that point in advance of us ; therefore their ab- 
sence at the time of our arrival satisfied us that we were 
in the advance. It was nearly an hour before they made 
their appearance with the luggage and canoes. We im- 
mediately took places in the bark canoes, and were pad- 
dled over to Mossup's Landing, the southern extremity of 
the Hor-ka-por-ka Portage, which connects Pickerel Lake 
with Rock Lake ; points which are said to be distant from 
each other only three miles, but I am sure that I walked 
more than six miles the first time that I made the tour. 

The portage crosses over the top of Ball Mountain, 
and as you approach Rock Lake you are compelled to 
traverse an alder swamp about one-half mile in width. 
This portage has been greatly improved since I crossed for 
the first time, in 1880. The underbrush has been cut out 
and some of the more troublesome obstructions overcome, 
or at least greatly lessened. 

The southern end of this portage is now passable for 
an ox-team with a jumper for a distance somewhat less 
than a mile ; consequently we had hoped to find Mossup 
able to give us a start on this part of our journey with his 
oxen. In this matter, however, we were doomed to dis- 
appointment, inasmuch as our friend was not provided with 
the necessary vehicle. The luggage, including the canoes, 
with which we were now burdened, it was thought would 
weigh about one thousand pounds, — no unimportant impe- 
dimenta ; and, consequently, the task of transporting all 
this across the portage seemed formidable to us when we 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 127 

learned from Mossup that he could not render assistance 
with his team. 

The guides had firmly counted on this aid, and for this 
purpose sought out Mossup immediately after our arrival 
at this end of the portage. I did not deem it wise to hesi- 
tate, nor to attempt to transfer our luggage to Rock Lake 
without additional assistance ; and therefore immediately 
employed Mossup and his son to aid us in making the 
transit. This question having been settled, we started off 
with our packs, properly arranged, to travel as much of the 
Hor-ka-por-ka Portage as we might before nightfall. The 
guides selected a camping-ground about three-fourths of a 
mile from Mossup's Landing, and made two trips over this 
portion of the portage. The photographer and myself did 
not return with them when they made the second trip, but 
went in search of ruffed grouse, which were found in great 
abundance around Mossup's small clearing. We spent a 
pleasant night in camp, and were moving with the first 
appearance of the gray day in the morning. 

Having learned on the previous evening that there was 
another settler in the vicinity of Mossup's who would prob- 
ably be willing to assist us in portaging, I sent for him, and 
he made his appearance in camp very soon after daylight, 
joined us at our breakfast, and tramped with us on the 
trail. Our party now consisted of seven members, and it 
was a pleasing sight, when standing on some high moun- 
tain rock, to look down on these sturdy men who were toil- 
ing patiently up the mountain-side. The author had started 
out from camp in the morning burdened with two rifles, 
three shot-guns, and a fishing-rod, while the photographer, 



128 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. 

who followed him, was carrying a much heavier load. The 
guides were each supposed to carry a pack weighing about 
one hundred pounds, and the settler, whom he had just 
employed, about the same amount. The settler, Emerson, 
who made his appearance this morning, is the largest man 
in the party, and he seems to possess about as much 
strength as an ordinary pack-mule. These backwoodsmen 
are generally very strong men and thoroughly accustomed 
to carrying heavy packs, while at the same time they are 
satisfied with a moderate compensation, one dollar being 
the amount always demanded when meals are furnished to 
the laborer. 

The chief guide, however, does not rank as a laborer, 
and he is commonly paid about two dollars and fifty cents 
or three dollars per diem, furnishing the canoes and the 
necessary dogs, but his assistants are paid one dollar a day. 

It was now the first day of October ; the sky was clear 
and the sun was shining brightly, while we toiled up the 
side of Ball Mountain, with happy anticipations of grand 
sport that would amply compensate us for all this toil. In 
due time we reached the mountain-top, where a halt was 
called, that we might view the surrounding country and 
admire its strange beauty. The photographer here deter- 
mined to take a view showing our party as we appeared at 
this moment. 

This illustration is intended to show the party as they 
appeared when carrying their burdens on the Ho-ka-por-ka 
Portage ; and, consequently, young Mossup is seen stand- 
ing beneath the canoe, which is held in the same position as 
it is carried, while Emerson is supporting on his shoulders 



130 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

a sack of flour which weighed one hundred pounds. It 
should now be understood that we have left civilization 
behind us ; that our eyes are turned towards the grand 
wilderness which we are about entering, and that within it 
we are bound to remain six or ei^ht weeks without seeine 
a human habitation. The photographer has caught up this 
view — this grand wilderness — and fixed it on paper, that I 
may present it to the interested reader who has concluded 
to follow us in our ramble, — to camp with us in the forest. 

The author and the photographer reached Rock Lake 
about eleven o'clock, closely followed by the guides and 
their assistants ; but this was only their first trip, while one- 
half of our luggage still remained on the top of the 
mountain. Consequently, after a brief rest, Wellington, 
George, Emerson, and Mossup, Sr., returned to bring up 
the balance. I retained young Mossup to paddle a canoe 
for me while I fished in the lake. 

The trout-fishing was grand, and I caught a fine lot of 
these beauties, while the photographer was taking a view 
of this lake and the guides and their assistants were bring- 
ing down the balance of our luggage. 

We dined about two o'clock, on lake-trout, just taken 
from the water. After dinner, Emerson, Mossup, and son 
returned to their homes, while our party proceeded to cross 
Rock Lake, which is connected by a half-mile portage with 
Mud Lake. We reached the latter lake about four o'clock, 
but much of our luoforasfe remained behind on Rock Lake 
and must be brought over this half-mile portage before we 
can proceed farther on our journey. 

We succeeded in crossing Mud Lake, and camped on 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 131 

the portage between the latter and Loon Lake. Mud Lake 
is a small body of water, probably about half a mile in 
leno-th, and the portage which connects this lake with Loon 
Lake does not much exceed the same distance. 

Captain George Ross, who had parted with us at the 
village of Maganetawan to hunt up his dogs which had 
strayed away, joined us this morning, October 2, in our 
camp near Mud Lake, before we had breakfasted. He has 
brought the doQfs back with him, and we can now engrao-e in 
a deer-hunt whenever it is thouorht best. Still-huntino; is 
impracticable until the leaves have fallen, which has not yet 
occurred, and consequently the dogs are required for the 
purpose of enabling us to provide for the wants of our 
camp. 

We broke camp at an early hour and started off for 
Loon Lake, which was reached in due time. This lake is 
probably a little more than two miles in length, and is 
separated from Grass Lake by a narrow strip of land 
which does not exceed more than eight rods in width ; con- 
sequently the portage is traversed in a few moments. 

The captain brought to our camp this morning another 
canoe. We have with us at this time three canoes. The 
luggage was promptly carried over to Loon Lake this 
morning, loaded into our canoes, in which we promptly 
embarked, and were paddled by our guides up the lake to 
the narrow neck of land, which has been previously men- 
tioned ; crossed the same, and at once started forward on 
the smooth water of Grass Lake. We encamped at one 
o'clock on the west shore of this body of water, near its 
northern extremity. The camp is situated in the woods. 



132 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. 

only a few rods from the water's edge, thus affording a 
very picturesque view of the lake and rising sun. It re- 
quired only a few moments to erect our tent and make the 
camp, and the next labor which followed was the prepara- 
tion of the dinner. This was disposed of and a deer-hunt 
promptly inaugurated by Wellington, who started into the 
woods with the does about three o'clock in the afternoon. 
The captain and Mildenberger watched the northern ex- 
tremity of the lake while George and I went to the south- 
ern part of the same. These points are separated by some- 
thing more than one mile ; nevertheless we heard distinctly 
the sound of Mildenberger's gun when he shot the deer just 
as it broke from cover and before it entered the water. 

The author soon after this returned to camp, where he 
found the happiest man on the American continent (at that 
particular moment), an amateur sportsman, who had just 
won his grandest triumph, — had killed larger game than can 
now be found in any part of Germany. The ambitious 
military officer zvho has just won his first gi^and victory could 
not be happier. 

The photographer in his childhood dreams had never 
anticipated so grand a success as a sportsman. The deer 
that he had just killed was not ruthlessly slaughtered in 
the water, but was struck by the deadly missile while still in 
the air, and only a few seconds after it broke cover. 

It is now fashionable for our sporting papers to con- 
demn entirely the use of dogs in deer-hunting, not even 
admitting that the question is one which might properly be 
discussed ; thus certain harpists seek to become authorities 
in all these matters. 




' He shot the deer just as it broke from cover." 



134 ^-^^ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

Every sportsman will cheerfully admit that the taking 
of game ought to be restricted within certain limits. What 
are these limits? In order to speak intelligently on this 
question it is very necessary that the speaker should be 
familiar with the localities in which the game is found, the 
various methods employed for its capture, the necessities 
of the people inhabiting the game regions, and the condi- 
tion of the game at the various seasons at which it is 
hunted. In those localities where the game is already very 
scarce it may be highly important for the sportsman and 
other interested parties to limit, or even entirely stop, the 
destruction for ceidain periods. 

Although the interests of the sportsman are commonly 
identical with those of the inhabitants residing in game 
countries, nevertheless the necessities of the latter may be 
such as to know no bounds. In the district of Muskoka, 
Canada, it is safe to assert that fifty deer are killed by the 
still-hunters where one is killed after having been run by 
dogs, either on the run-ways or in the water. The deer 
killed on the run-ways and in the water are usually con- 
sumed in the sportsman's camp, and if the price of this 
venison were determined by the money outlay made by 
this class of men while seeking the game, it would probably 
vary from twenty-five cents to one dollar per pound. 

The deer killed by the still-hunter in this region is 
generally consumed in the lumber camps, where it is sold 
for four or five cents per pound. 

The great body of the sportsmen entering the district 
of Muskoka are residents of the United States, and would 
not remain in this climate durinof the cold months of au- 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



135 



tumn and winter, when still-hunting can be advantageously- 
practised ; while the venison is in better condition during 
September than in any other month of the year. Further- 
more, the music of the hounds when running deer eives 
an additional pleasure to the sportsman. In this section of 
country, were it possible to prevent the sale of venison in 
lumber camps, the deer, which are now very abundant, would 
soon become more numerous than sheep have ever been 
on the hills of Vermont, even though the pioneer hunters 
are permitted to kill deer at will, and the true sportsman 
allowed to continue to hound the eame. 

It has not been my intention to discuss thoroughly the 
question that I raised ; this would require more time and 
space than I can give to the consideration of the subject; 
but I desired rather to direct the reader s attention to it, 
hoping thereby to arouse thought on this and other kin- 
dred topics. 

We continued the deer-hunt on October 3, notwith- 
standine a drizzline rain, which continued to fall during- the 
most of the day. This day there were two deer killed, 
although I find that nothing happened of any particular 
interest or worthy of notice here. The following day 
Wellington Ross, who had been with us almost constantly 
since our arrival in the district of Muskoka, took his de- 
parture for home. He had shared with us the pleasures 
of the hunt and served us faithfully as a guide. The other 
members of the party engaged during the forenoon in an 
unsuccessful deer-hunt. The afternoon was spent by the 
photographer and George in making negatives about the 
lake, while the captain went with me in search of ruffed 



1^5 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

o-rouse, in which we were, however, unsuccessful, ruffed 
grouse not being as abundant here as they were about 
Mossup's and Rock Lake. During our stay on these lakes 
we discovered a beaver-house which was at this time occu- 
pied by a family of beavers. I spent a part of one evening 
with the captain watching for this interesting family, the 
members of which never, or at least very rarely, make their 
appearance in the waters about their house much before 
sunset. We arrived on the water In proximity to this 
dwelling at the proper time, but failed to see the beaver, 
although the captain says the acute animal saw us. The 

statement was based on the fact that we heard a sound 

■f 

which the captain recognized as the beaver's alarm-signal, 
which Is followed by the rapid disappearance of the master 
of ceremonies, who neither reappears nor permits any of 
the members to show themselves for several hours after 
the alarm has been sounded. We remained here, keeping 
perfectly quiet for about an hour, but heard nothing more. 

It was after dark when we reached the camp, but we 
were informed on our return that a flock of wild geese had 
passed over it, going southward. The sight of the geese 
so affected George Ross that he caught up his Winchester 
rifle and sent several bullets after them, although the pho- 
tographer thinks that their flying was not In any manner 
Inconvenienced by the shooting of our guide. 

The afternoon of the 5th of October was spent In 
making preparations for our departure on the morning of 
the 6th for Lonof Lake. We had killed more deer while 
in this camp than we had consumed. The captain placed 
one-half of the largest deer that we had killed in his canoe 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OE CANADA. 137 

and carried it to a poor widow who lived several miles 
from the camp. He also sent for other settlers, who ap- 
peared and carried away all our surplus game. Conse- 
quently, on the morning of the 6th, we were ready to 
strike our tents and move forward to new fields of sport. 

There had been a thunder-storm during the night 
prior to our departure, but the morning was clear, with a 
strong breeze. We broke camp about 8.20 a.m. and went 
to the head of Grass Lake, en route for Long Lake, reach- 
ing the latter point at one o'clock, having crossed three 
small lakes and four short portages. We dined at the 
foot of this lake, and after dinner paddled up to the head 
of the same, where we encamped. Our camp is very 
pleasantly situated in a dense forest, but also quite near 
the lake-shore. During the afternoon the captain and 
myself took a stroll about a beaver-dam at the head of 
the lake in search of beaver. We succeeded in finding 
one family here. We also trolled a portion of the time 
that we were absent from camp, and caught six fine lake- 
trout. 

We are now in the virgin forest, where the lumberman 
has not destroyed its original beauty by the removal of a 
single pine-tree. Here we see nature in all her wildness 
and enchanting beauty. Here the landscape is clothed in 
nature's robes of green during the spring and summer 
months, dotted here and there with her silvery lakes and 
rivers, while in autumn she adds to these charming colors 
her lovely golden tints. 

The lover of nature cannot resist the grandeur, the 
enchanting beauty, and overwhelming sense of his obliga- 



I og THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

tions to Deity, when he travels along nature's highways 
and views this magnificent scenery. It is a more eloquent 
and forcible sermon than has ever been preached from any 
pulpit in Christendom. 

It is, to me, a sincere regret that I cannot picture to 
the mind of the reader the beauty and grandeur of these 
scenes ; and likewise that I cannot convey to him the un- 
speakable pleasures and the gratitude which I felt while 
worshipping at nature's shrine in these grand forests. I 
sincerely wish that the whole world could enjoy these 
things as I enjoyed them ; but neither the author nor the 
photographer can present them with nature's power. 

Having spent the day very pleasantly, surrounded with 
novel scenes, we retired early to our tents for repose ; but 
sounds which were novel to my ears soon aroused me from 
my slumbers, and I listened more than half an hour to the 
mingled bowlings of a pack of wolves. These animals 
are not dangerous to mankind ; they differ widely from 
European wolves, and are principally troublesome in this 
country because of their sheep-killing proclivities. This 
music that we heard to-night, the howling of the wolves, 
was repeated every night for more than a month ; in fact, 
we heard it nightly as long as we remained in this dark 
wilderness. 

These serenades were the only evidences we had of 
their existence, until after the snow had fallen so as to 
render perceptible their tracks, which were then occasion- 
ally discovered. 

The forenoon of the next day, October 7, was spent 
in trout-fishing, grouse-shooting, and exploring the sur- 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 139 

rounding country. The captain conducted me about half 
a mile up the side of a steep hill, which had its base on 
Long Lake, to another lake situated on the top of this 
hill or mountain. While I recognize the fact that all 
mountain lakes occupy different planes or levels, some 
higher and others lower, still it seemed very unusual to 
climb the face of a steep hill, commencing at one lake, and 
find another just where you had expected to reach the 
hill-top. This lake was nearly round and probably some- 
what less than one-half mile in diameter. We saw, during 
our morning peregrinations, many old moose-tracks, and 
also many spots in the woods where these animals had 
browsed ; while a few of these moose indications were 
certainly of recent origin. 

The captain thought it wise to tarry in our present 
camp several days, to kill deer and dry the venison, in 
order that we might have a supply of meat while engaged 
in moose-hunting, independent of that which we might be 
able to kill during this period. 

We had unanimously agreed that it was inexpedient to 
take dogs with us on the moose chase. In this particular 
our experience fully confirmed the wisdom of our con- 
clusion. The moose cannot be driven to water by deer- 
hounds, or any other species of dogs with which I am 
familiar ; and, therefore, had we taken these animals with 
us, they could only have served to announce our presence 
to the game which we sought, without being able to render 
any assistance. These facts will become more apparent 
to the reader when he has read other portions of this 
book, when the story of the moose-hunt has been told 



140 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



from beofinninof to end. We are now enterinsf on nature's 
grandest preserve, — we find here the " King of the Cana- 
dian Forest," alias moose, deer, beaver, black bear, black 
wolf, speckled- and lake-trout, duck, ruffed grouse, etc. 
Here is abundance of sport for the true sportsman. 
Durins" the morninof stroll we saw several beaver-houses 
which were occupied, and examined a large amount of 
their fresh work. These sights were highly interesting to 
me, but inasmuch as they have been so frequently de- 
scribed by others, I shall omit them here. 

It was already after twelve o'clock when we reached 
our camp. The guides prepared our dinner, which was 
speedily partaken of, and then we got off on a deer-hunt. 
The captain started into the woods with the dogs. George 
Ross and I entered a canoe, the former paddling across 
the lake to a point that commanded a view of a large 
portion of this water. We then stepped on dry land, and 
there patiently awaited the coming developments. We 
carefully scanned every visible portion of the lake. An 
hour passed and still we were watching ; soon a grand 
splash was heard near the shore on the opposite side of 
the lake ; the guide caught sight of the water which was 
thrown high into the air, but the head of the deer was 
scarcely visible to him while the animal was swimming 
towards us. The deer, which, at first, swam directly towards 
us, soon changed his course and headed towards the foot 
of the lake. This change brought him plainly Into view. 
A few minutes later the dog was seen running from the 
woods where the deer broke cover. The head and antlers 
of our game were visible above the waters of the lake, 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 141 

while he was swimming majestically without fear or even 
anxiety. We stood nearly half an hour watching the 
movements of this deer, since we could not safely move 
lest we should be discovered by the game and give him 
an opportunity to return to his forest home. The reader 
should remember that this animal took to the water from 
the shore nearly opposite to the point on which we were 
standing, that the deer swam almost directly towards us 
until he reached the middle of the stream, then turned 
downward, which gave us, in due time, an opportunity to 
come in unperceived behind him. Patiently we awaited 
this opportune moment. When it arrived, the canoe, which 
had been drawn up on the shore near us, was quietly 
shoved out upon the water. Ross gently stepped to the 
stern with his paddle in hand, steadied our little bark while 
I entered its bow, where I seated myself and placed my 
rifle at my right side. Ross carefully pushed the little 
craft from its moorings, placed himself on his knees in that 
part of the canoe which properly trimmed it, and silently 
plied his paddle. 

The little canoe moved noiselessly but rapidly forward, 
every stroke of the paddle bringing us nearer to the game. 
There was another paddle lying near my hand ; I seized it 
and gave a helping hand, greatly increasing the speed. 
Forward, forward we went ! We were unperceived, al- 
thou^jh within ten rods of a beautiful buck, which was 
swimming in the middle of the lake directly before us. 
My paddle was changed for my rifle. Nearer, still nearer 
we approached. The rifle was raised ; the bead was drawn, 
just below the base of the animal's skull. We were six 



142 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

rods distant from the deer. A little puff of white smoke 
covered the bow of our boat; the crack of the rifle was 
heard, and the lifeless body of the deer floated on the 
water, which was slightly tinged with blood. Thus ended 
this chase. The carcass was towed to shore in front of 
our camp, and the captain met us there, having returned 
from the woods, where he had gone to start the dogs. The 
dog which followed the buck that I had just shot was also 
now in our camp, but the other was still absent. Nearly 
two hours had elapsed since the buck was shot. There 
were now on the shore, in front of our camp, the captain, 
George Ross, and myself, while Mildenberger had gone 
back into the forest In search of ruffed grouse. Suddenly 
the captain sprang from the rock on which he had been 
seated, placed his right hand on his forehead in such a 
position as to shade his eyes, while he leaned slightly for- 
ward and gazed steadily out over the surface of the lake a 
few seconds without uttering a single word. This position 
was one that I had frequently seen him assume. I there- 
fore recognized the fact that he had sighted game, or was 
at least swayed by this thought, and now endeavored to 
solve the question. Thus he had stood for a few seconds, 
when he simply exclaimed, ''A deer in the lake f and 
instantly sprang forward to the canoe. I had followed him 
closely with rifle in hand, expecting to make the chase with 
him ; he quickly pushed the frail bark into the water and 
hastily said, " Doctor, let George go with me in the canoe ; 
it will be a hard chase; we will drive the deer to you." A 
few seconds later the canoe was on the water, the captain 
in the bow and George Ross in the stern, each on their 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 143 

knees with a paddle in their hands. The little birch-bark 
was rushing rapidly forward, propelled by the power of 
four strong, muscular arms. The sight is a grand one, and 
called to mind the impetuous charge of a squadron of 
cavalry in war times. The captain is most determined and 
energetic when in the pursuit of game ; like the grandest 
charger in the squadron, he is bound to take the lead, while 
the others can only follow. 

This peculiarity of the man has been demonstrated 
frequently in my presence in the chase, and all his fellow- 
huntsmen and guides are ready to grant him this position. 
I had seated myself on a rock, soon after the departure of 
the guides, to watch the deer, whose head was. visible to 
me in my position, although fully a mile away. I could 
not, however, at so great a distance, determine whether 
this animal possessed antlers or not ; but the leisurely 
manner in which it was swimming satisfied me its pursuers 
were undiscovered until they had made at least three- 
fourths of the whole distance. The animal, when first dis- 
covered, was nearly opposite to our camp and within a 
few rods of the farther shore. The guides, in order to 
succeed in the accomplishment of their purpose, were com- 
pelled to make a considerable detour to the rear of the 
animal, and finally come up between it and the shore. 
Fortunately for us they had remained, for a considerable 
time, undiscovered, and the animal, in the mean time, was 
gradually leaving the shore while swimming down the lake. 
The moment, however, came when the pursuers were dis- 
covered, and the deer then made the most frantic efforts. I 
could see it spring foi'ward with all its power, raising its 



144 ^-^^ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

I 
head high in the air with each grand effort, but the guides 

are pulling stronger than before on their paddles. They 
seem, when viewed from my position, to be only a few rods 
in the rear of the animal, but the deer is heading for the 
shore and seems about ready to bound into the forest. It 
is now evident to me that the chase can only last a few 
seconds. / sprang from my seat ; I recalled the fact that 
the guides have no gun i?t the boat ; I realize that if they 
had one they could now easily kill the animal ; they are 
almost on it. An instant later ajid the canoe is seen between 
the deer and the shore ; a loud shout is heard from the 
guides ; they wave their hats ; they are victorious, and the 
disappointed deer now turns and swims towards the middle 
of the lake. Its grandest effort has been made ; fatigue and 
disappointment slozv down its movements. It was now an 
easy task for the guides to direct the animal to any point 
on the lake. The canoe was kept in the rear, and when 
it was brought forward towards the right of the deer, it 
would cause the animal to oblique to the left, and vice versa. 
In this manner they proceeded to cross the lake, bringing 
the doe in front of the rock on which I was seated ; but 
while she was still about six hundred yards away they 
called on me to take a shot, I demurred against their 
request, inasmuch as the portion of the animal now visible 
did not much exceed the dimensions of a pint cup. The 
first ball fired fell short about fifty yards, and then rico- 
chetted nearly across the lake. Another shot was fired 
with no better result, and thus I continued for several 
minutes, but not without making some improvement. The 
shots were pronounced by the guides to be accurate, so far 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 145 

as the line of the target was concerned, but the balls still 
fell short of the mark. 

The photographer, who was absent in the woods when 
I commenced firing, now made his appearance, and seizing 
the Winchester rifle, began to compete with me. He was 
able to fire two shots with the repeater while I could fire 
one from the breech-loading Ballard. The contest between 
us was now very lively, and we succeeded in persuading 
the guides to bring the game nearer to us, so that the 
animal was not more than one hundred yards from the 
muzzles of the rifles. The bullets now fell in very close 
proximity to the doe's head ; none were more than four 
or five inches from its centre. Six or eiMit shots have 
been fired with this degree of accuracy, when I send in 
one that breaks the skin over the base of the animal's 
skull. She dodges her head downward, but quickly brings 
it up again, when a shot from Mildenberger ends this trial 
of skill. The guides shout aloud and lustily cheer the pho- 
tographer, who proudly puts down his rifle and wipes the 
perspiration from his brow. 



10 



146 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



CHAPTER VIII. 

Drying Venison — A Grand and Beautiful Mountain Gorge — The Meeting 
AT THE Beaver-Dam — Our Photographer Lost in the Wilderness— A 
Lonely Night on Buck Lake— The Horrible Dream — The Lost Man 
Found — The Unexpected Meeting with a Bull Moose. 




HE preparation for the moose-hunt 
was now commenced by cutting the 
flesh of the deer, which we had just 
killed, into strips or slices, and dry- 
ing the same on a scaffold erected 
for the purpose over our camp-fire. 
This labor, however, did not inter- 
fere seriously with the continuation of deer-hunting, trout- 
fishing, and bird-shooting ; but, inasmuch as we have fully 
described these sports, we shall hereafter entirely omit, or 
pass very rapidly over, them, lest a too frequent repetition 
of that which is very interesting may become monotonous. 

We remained on this lake ten days, during which 
period the venison was fully dried, and we had a very 
enjoyable time. The weather was generally very pleasant, 
althougrh we had a slirrht snow-storm and occasional rains. 
The photographer took many negatives, and among others, 
a view of our camp, which appears as a frontispiece in this 
book. Game was found here in great abundance, and our 
larder was always well supplied ; in fact, there was no time 
during our stay on this lake when we had not plenty of 
venison, trout, and ruffed grouse; nor was it found ne- 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 147 

cessary for us to spend more than a small portion of our 
time in procuring these necessities ; consequently, both 
long and short journeys were made into the surrounding 
forest with no other object than spending our time pleas- 
antly. It should, nevertheless, be here confessed that 
nature frequently rewarded us for these labors, even be- 
yond our expectations, revealing to us at such times her 
grandest secrets. It was during our stay on this lake that 
the photographer and I started out one afternoon, taking 
with us bird-dogs and shot-guns, although the chief object 
of this trip was not to gather in partridges for food, but 
rather to study nature in this grand solitude. We AValked 
together probably about one mile, chatting pleasantly in 
the mean time, when I separated from him for the purpose 
of investigating a deep and dark ravine, which I was at 
that moment entering. The desire to be alone, entirely 
alone, so far as human companionship was concerned, had 
taken complete possession of my soul. I therefore in- 
formed Mr, Mildenberger that we would separate here, 
and that I would rejoin him at the head of the lake. Two 
bird-dogs remained with me, while one accompanied the 
photographer ; eve^t this co^npanionship was noio more than 
I desired. Faithful Ponto commonly afforded me much 
satisfaction by his persevering efforts to find game, and 
little Romp often amused me by his wild antics ; but that 
afternoon I frequently wished that they were both back in 
camp. 

The sun was shining brightly, but nevertheless the 
depth of the ravine which I had entered was so great, and 
the shadows of the giant trees which overhung its borders 



1^8 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

SO dark, that I soon found myself in a sort of twilight. 
This peculiar light gave a strange and weird appearance 
to those objects situated at the bottom of the ravine, while 
the autumnal frosts had touched the foliage of the trees 
growing from its sides, as well as those which overhung 
it, imparting to it many of the most beautiful colors of the 
rainbow, which it rivalled in beauty. Great rocks and 
grand boulders, frequently covered with ferns, were often 
seen in the bottom and on the sides of this half-lighted 
chasm. Gi'andeur and beauty were here combined. As I 
proceeded up this mountain gorge, the scenes presented 
were truly kaleidoscopic : the surrounding landscape pre- 
sented an endless variety of beautiful colors, which a mar- 
vellous play of light and shade blended in the formation 
of pictures that were frequently artistic, although at other 
times they were grotesque and comical. 

Slowly I advanced through this fairy-land, often halting, 
and sometimes seating myself on some convenient rock 
in order to study more carefully the effect of a passing 
cloud, or the flight of a bird which chanced to come in 
such a position as to throw its shadow within my view. 
In this manner the time passed rapidly, and my promise to 
meet the photographer at the head of the lake had been 
completely forgotten. It w^as not until late in the afternoon 
that I was stimulated, by the increasing darkness in the 
deep, dark mountain gorge, to quicken my pace, in order 
that I might be able to return to camp before nightfall. 

Finally, hurried forward by the thought that I might 
be compelled to spend a night in the woods, where the 
charming scenes just described had been dispelled by the 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 149 

increasing gloom, I soon found myself at the end of the 
gorge and on the top of the mountain. The entire length 
of this deep ravine did not exceed two miles, but I had 
spent within it more than three hours. Having reached 
the mountain-top, I was now convinced that I had an 
abundance of time to return to our camp by the way of 
the head of the lake ; and I was prompted to start in this 
direction by the belief that Mr. Mildenberger would prob- 
ably remain in that vicinity until I could join him. It now 
remained for me to determine the direction which I must 
take in order to reach this objective-point. I seated my- 
self for a few moments, thought on the subject, and then 
proceeded on my journey, but had not taken a dozen steps 
when I caught an instantaneous glance of a fine buck 
not more than forty yards from me on the slope of the 
mountain. This animal rushed down the mountain-side 
with such rapidity that I was unable to get a distinct out- 
line of his form at any time after he had taken his first 
leap, although the movements of the underbrush and a 
shadowy figure were visible for a few seconds. Romp 
started promptly after the fleeing animal, and Ponto soon 
joined in the chase. The direction taken by these fugi- 
tives was towards the head of the lake, and therefore I 
followed after them. I had tramped, I supposed, about 
two miles, when I came to a cedar swamp, which I unhesi- 
tatingly penetrated, and soon found myself standing on 
the edge of a considerable brook, which I thought would 
enter the lake near the head of that body of water ; con- 
sequently, I started down this stream, which I followed 
about two miles, when I heard a shout from the photog- 



150 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE ; 



rapher. I was delighted to hear his voice, but gready 
surprised to find him in such a dense jungle. I had pre- 
viously observed that the brook which I was following had 
overflowed its borders, — had, evidendy, quite re- 
cendy assumed unusual proportions, since the trees 
now nearly sub- 
mergfed were 
still apparently 
healthy. 

It is a well- 
known fact to "^ 
backwoodsmen 
that trees 
when com- 




Beavei-dam and house. 



pletely submerged soon die. I was not, therefore, sur- 
prised when the photographer, whom I had approached 
so nearly as to now be within speaking distance, although 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 151 

I could not yet see the objects which were immediately 
about him, said, "I am standing on a recendy-constructed 
beaver-dam, while the beaver-house, not yet fully com- 
pleted, is situated very near." 

I finally succeeded in reaching the spot where my pho- 
tographer was standing, learned that he had been there 
two or three hours, that the bird-dogs had been in his 
company a considerable portion of this time, having evi- 
dently followed the deer which I had seen on the top of 
the mountain into this vicinity. Mr. Mildenberger was 
evidently greatly interested in the labors of this animal, 
and while contemplating it had forgotten the lake. He 
failed to give me any information in regard to the route 
by which he had reached his present situation. It was, 
therefore, necessary to follow the brook down to the lake,, 
which feat was successfully accomplished ; in fact, the task 
was not very difficult when we had succeeded in getting 
below the dam, where the stream once more possessed its 
natural boundaries, although its course led us through a 
very dense growth of alders and other swamp vegetation. 

The lake was reached soon after sunset, and the firing 
of a few sienal-Qfuns brought the elides with the canoes 
promptly to us on the shore, where we had already built a 
fire for the purpose of revealing our whereabouts. 

There occurred on Tuesday, October 10, while we were 
encamped on Long Lake, one of the most exciting events 
of our sojourn in the forest, although it was only fortunate 
in its happy termination. Captain Ross and the photog- 
rapher started this morning into the woods, the former 
for the purpose of starting a deer, while the latter was 



152 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

intent on shooting ruffed grouse. We were somewhat sur- 
prised when the captain reached us, about one o'clock in 
the afternoon, unaccompanied by Mr. Mildenberger, inas- 
much as the latter possessed no knowledge of woodcraft, 
and was therefore extremely liable to become confused and 
fail to reach our camp. It had also been observed that the 
photographer was entirely indifferent in regard to danger 
in this particular; and even Wellington Ross, prior to sepa- 
rating from us, had expressed the opinion that Mr. Milden- 
berger would yet be compelled to spend one or more 
nights in the wilderness without the society of his comrades. 

The moment the captain reached camp this afternoon he 
inquired if the photographer had returned, and when an- 
swered in the negative, he expressed considerable anxiety. 
He said, "I left him early in the morning, and expected to 
find him near the spot where we had separated when I re- 
turned there about one hour since; but he had taken his 
departure and could not be found. I then thought that 
probably he had grown weary of waiting for me and had 
retraced his steps to the lake, fired a signal for a canoe, 
and thus reached the camp." 

Immediately after dinner the guides started out in 
search of the lost photographer, each having arranged with 
the other to go in a different direction, in order to cover as 
much space as possible before nightfall, while they carried 
with them their guns, which they continued to fire at in- 
tervals for the purpose of attracting Mr. Mildenberger's 
attention and aiding him in finding the camp. The search 
was earnestly kept up during the whole afternoon, and only 
terminated with the commencing darkness of evening. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OE CANADA. 153 

while the firing of euns was continued until nine o'clock. 
This firing since nightfall was stimulated by certain in- 
distinct sounds heard by us, which we thought to be the 
shouts of the lost photographer, although there was some 
doubt in our minds on this subject. 

The anxiety felt in our camp for our lost companion is 
very great this evening. It is greatly feared that he will 
attempt to travel in the woods at night. This effort might 
be productive of fatal results. Again, it is thought possible 
that fear and anxiety may possibly affect his intellect, and 
thus cause him to wander away from the sounds of our 
guns and otherwise interfere with us in our search and his 
safe return to camp. The reader, in order to fully com- 
prehend the fears and anxieties of those in camp, must 
remember that the lost man was a complete stranger to 
our country, a German, whose knowledge of a wilderness 
had been gained from a few acres of woodland in his boy- 
hood home, or possibly a small park containing trees and 
small streams. Furthermore, his residence in America 
since his arrival on these shores has been limited entirely 
to large cities, with no knowledge of our rural districts at 
the time he started on this journey. The anxiety which we 
felt for his safety was likewise intimately connected with the 
objects which we desired to accomplish by this journey into 
the wilderness. The author had started from his home with 
the determination of ensfaofine in a erand moose-hunt be- 
fore he returned, and had employed the photographer that 
he might be able to present to his friends in the future 
some pleasant reminiscences of the doings of his party in 
the Lake Lands of Canada. The party was now just about 



154 



THE SPORTSAIAN'S PARADISE; 



engaging- in the chief object of the expedition. It will, 
therefore, be observed that both sympathy and self-interest 
combined to increase our solicitude for the safety of Mr. 
Mildenberger. 

The fruitless search for the missing man during the 
afternoon had served to greatly increase this anxiety ; and 
therefore the entire conversation around our camp-fire 
during the evening related to a further prosecution of the 
search for the photographer. This subject was thoroughly 
discussed, and it was finally agreed that the captain should 
start from camp in the morning with the earliest dawn of 
day, and that George Ross and the author should follow as 
soon as it became evident to them that the captain's first 
effort had failed. The captain, during the discussion which 
occurred in the evening around the camp-fire, had ex- 
pressed the opinion that Mr. Mildenberger would be found 
in the morning at Mountain Lake. In our contemplation 
of the condition of the photographer, we were comforted 
by the thought that the weather was now clear and mild, 
and therefore he would be relieved from the physical suf- 
ferings that might otherwise attend a separation from us. 
We were likewise aware that he was supplied with matches, 
which would enable him to build a fire, and thus render his 
surroundings in the woods more endurable at night than 
they would otherwise have been. 

The author spent a restless night in his tent ; his sleep 
was disturbed ; his companion was absent, and there was 
some doubt as to his safety. He awoke before it was light; 
awaited rather anxiously the first dawn of day, which made 
its appearance about 5.45, when he called the captain and 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 155 

asked him if it was not time to start on the search. The 
captain rubbed his eyes and rephed in the affirmative. We 
then both arose and stepped from our respective tents into 
the open air. At that moment we heard the voice of Mr. 
Mildenberger. It was indistinct ; he evidently was a great 
distance from us, but we both now felt assured that he 
was still alive. We recognized the voice as that of our pho- 
tographer. The captain quickly fired two shots, hoping 
that Mr. Mildenberger would hear the sound; and then 
he promptly started for the shore where his canoe was 
lying ; the little bark was shoved off on the water, and, oc- 
cupied by our sturdy backwoodsman, she glided away on 
the smooth surface of the lake with great rapidity. We 
listened intently to the shots fired from the captain's rifle, 
and also to his lusty shouts. We had expected that these 
sounds would elicit a reply from our lost friend, but no an- 
swer was heard. The captain paddled quickly across the 
lake ; the canoe was drawn on the shore ; the sound of his 
voice and the report of his rifle were heard more than half 
an hour after he entered the woods ; but both gradually 
grew less distinct, and finally were heard no more. We 
had expected to hear some answering shots or shouts from 
Mr. Mildenberger, but none have reached our ears since 
the early dawn. Is he wandering away from us ? Has he 
failed to hear our shots ? These were the questions asked 
in our camp. George has prepared our breakfast and we 
have attempted to supply nature's demand. We found 
little pleasure around our board this morning ; could not 
enjoy our food ; two of our members are absent, the cap- 
tain and Mr. Mildenberger, and when will they be with us 



1^6 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

again ? The latter query, like those so recently asked, 
could not now be answered. It has been more than three 
hours since the captain left the camp. George was busied 
with the labors attending the drying of the venison. The 
author was perched on a high rock at the lake-shore, ready 
to announce the first appearance of the lost. 

The captain's canoe was seen on the lake approaching 
camp ; but the distance was too great for its occupants to 
be discerned. This discovery was made by the author and 
promptly announced to the guide in the camp, who imme- 
diately came to the lookout. 

We are still unable to make out the number of persons 
in the canoe. Great was our suspense ! Great our anx- 
iety to know the result of the captain's search ! After a 
time we were able to distinguish two voices. Gladness 
filled our hearts ; a joyful shout from us was answered by 
a similar one from the canoe. Two forms are now visible ; 
two paddles are driving the little bark rapidly forward ; 
it will soon be halted at our feet. Shout after shout was 
heard from our friends, and shout answered shout. Our 
joy was great and unrestrained. The canoe touched shore, 
was drawn on dry land, and a joyous handshaking fol- 
lowed. A breakfast was quickly prepared for the pho- 
tographer and captain. They were hungry, and unques- 
tionably greatly enjoyed the repast. 

Let us now return to the photographer's wanderings, 
and detail his joys and sufferings as he has reported them 
to us. The morning of the clay on which he was lost, when 
he started out with the captain, was perfectly clear and the 
sun was shining brightly. He soon found himself thor- 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. ^^^ 

oughly engrossed in partridge-shooting, and had no thought 
of danger, or that he should wander away from camp so 
far that he could not readily find his way back again. He 
told the captain, when they separated, that he would soon 
return to the lake ; but, since the shooting was very good 
in the early part of the day, he thought very little af the 
promise. In fact, he did not think it necessary for him to 
pay any attention even to the direction in which he was 
journeying, and consequently he pushed heedlessly for- 
ward, passing lake after lake, over mountain and hill, until 
nearly three o'clock in the afternoon. At this hour he 
began to feel hungry; halted; dressed and broiled one of 
the partridges which he had killed in the morning. While 
thus engaged, it- occurred to him that he was lost, and 
would probably fail to reach camp that night. These 
thoughts impaired his appetite and rendered him somewhat 
nervous. The deer-dogs, which the captain had taken with 
him into the woods in the morning, approached the pho- 
tographer soon after this lunch. He could not persuade 
them to remain with him ; and, inasmuch as he supposed 
that they were now returning to camp after their unsuc- 
cessful chase, he attempted to follow them ; but they were 
soon lost to his vision. The dogs reached camp before 
dark, thus succeedinsf better than Mr. MildenberQ^er. 

The old bird-dog, " Bummer," started with him in the 
morning, but he too returned to camp. It will, therefore, 
be observed that the photographer was entirely alone in the 
wilderness, — that even the dogs had most ungenerously re- 
fused to stay with him. When he fully realized that he was 
lost he walked rapidly, hoping still that he might reach some 



158 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

familiar point in the woods ; but everything was strange, — 
forest, lakes, mountains, and hills all refused to grant the 
assistance he desired. The anxiety of mind which he felt 
when he first discovered that he was lost had steadily 
increased, every hour adding to his sufferings, until he 
finally found himself plunged into the most intense mental 
agony. He now realized that he was a stranger in a 
strange land, — a wanderer in a wilderness so large that 
it was possible for him to spend several months in wander- 
ing without ever coming in contact with a single human 
beinor. About an hour before sunset he reached a laro-e 
lake, or at least one much larger than any he had seen 
during the day, after leaving the one on which we were 
encamped. This lake, he thinks, was about two miles in 
length and about one mile in width. He shot a duck, and 
then concluded to camp for the night on the shore of this 
lake. He saw a high cliff at a point on the shore, having 
a perpendicular rock wall rising more than one hundred 
and fifty feet above the surface of the lake, and he deter- 
mined to climb up to this high point and take one more 
view of terra firma ; then, if nothing better offered, he 
would spend the night there. The cliff, or promontory, 
which we have mentioned, possessed but one rocky, per- 
pendicular wall ; the other sides were steep slopes covered 
with heavy forest-trees, while there occasionally cropped 
out a rocky stratum or ledge. These slopes were chiefly 
covered with a heavy growth of birch and maple, although 
there were to be seen, near the summit, several large 
white-pine trees. The photographer had reached the lake- 
shore about one hundred rods from the southern base of 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 159 

this high cHfT, and consequently it required only a few min- 
utes' walk, when he was prepared to commence the ascent. 
He had walked very rapidly during the latter part of the 
day, was now greatly fatigued, and consequently he found 
the ascent of the steep slope very difficult and even pain- 
ful to him. The steepness of the acclivity was so great 
that it was impossible for him to make a direct ascent of 
its face ; so he was compelled to tack from one point to 
another, in imitation of the course pursued by the mariner 
under certain circumstances. The reader will readily 
understand that, under these circumstances, it was im- 
possible for the photographer to make very rapid progress 
in the ascent ; still he labored on, drawing himself up by 
seizing hold of bushes or any other projecting substance, 
frequently resting in order to gain strength to enable him 
to make a new effort, and thus, after having spent an hour 
in this severe toil, he finally reached the summit of the cliff 
Let us now look upon him as he then appeared, after he 
had accomplished the ascent and stood on the top of the 
cliff, overlooking the lake and surroundino- forest. The 
reader would have pronounced him, even at this moment, a 
strong, athletic man, but would have been surprised when 
he observed that his face was livid, eyes protruding and 
reddened, forehead, face, and hands covered with large 
drops of perspiration, -while every muscle in the poor suf- 
ferer's body trembled from over-exertion. Thus appeared 
our photographer when he first stepped forward on the 
high cliff and gazed around him, but only for a few mo- 
ments, when he was observed to totter and then sink down 
upon the ground, where he remained prostrate for some 



l6o THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

minutes, but finally raised himself to a sitting posture. Be- 
hold him as he now sat there ! partly doubled up, lower 
extremities extended and resting .on the earth, elbows rest- 
ing on thighs, head drooping forward and clasped on either 
side with a hand, — a perfect picture of despair. The face 
is turned towards the earth, the mind is dazed, and he can- 
not now recall his own doings during the day. Fortu- 
nately, this mental condition was of short duration, — lasted 
only about a quarter of an hour, — when he fully regained 
consciousness and realized the fact that he was lost. He 
once more assumed the standing position, and now carefully 
surveyed the lake and the surrounding landscape. There 
was nothing visible but this single lake, surrounded by 
miles and miles of dark forest. He recalled the fact that 
during this day's journeying he had passed eight or ten 
lakes, but he observed nothing in the appearance of this 
wilderness to indicate, at this time, their existence or locality. 

The sun had just disappeared behind the western hori- 
zon. He now examined the contents of his pockets, and 
discovered that he had only two cartridges for the shot-gun 
left. He instantly resolved that he would do no more 
shooting for the present, unless it became necessary for the 
preservation of his life. There was no more time to be 
lost by inactivity, wood must be gathered for the night's 
fire, and some evergreen boughs placed on the surface of 
the fiat rock in order to prepare it for a seat during his in- 
voluntary sojourn. The photographer now set about the 
performance of these duties, which engaged his attention 
until the darkness of night had settled down about him. 

In the mean while, he had built a fire on the front part 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. i6i 

of the plateau, about one hundred feet back from the per- 
pendicular wall which has already been described. This 
plateau was an oblong piece of ground, containing about 
one acre, which formed the top of the high cliff, and was 
covered from near the perpendicular wall which fronted 
on the lake with whortleberry-bushes and a few dwarfed 
evergreens, while on the rear of the plateau there were 
found those trees common to this wilderness. 

Having carefully located our photographer where he 
has concluded to remain until the dawn of the morrow, 
we are now interested in knowing how he spent the in- 
tervening hours. The task has been made easy for the 
author, he having received a full statement from the pho- 
tographer, who always seemed anxious to impart to others 
a knowledge of his feelings and doings on this gloomy 
night, thus showing a willingness to place his friends in 
possession of a very valuable experience without their 
being subjected to the ills from which he suffered. He 
informed me that, having built the fire, gathered the wood, 
etc., he then walked to and fro and attempted to collect 
his thoughts, but could do so only very imperfectly ; re- 
membered that he had game in his pockets, but fully 
realized the fact that he could not eat; was greatly fatigued, 
but could not sleep. Burdened with his troubles, disap- 
pointed and sad, he exclaimed, "What shall I do?" The 
answer came to him in the twinkling of an eye. " Yell !" 
and yell he did ! It was these tremendous shouts that 
echoed through the forest, and were heard in our camp 
between eight and nine o'clock on the evening of the day 

when our photographer strayed away. These shouts were 

II 



1 62 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

but indistinctly heard by us ; we supposed that they were 
made by a human being, but there were doubts in our 
minds on this point. They came to us at intervals of five 
or ten minutes. We fired guns in response to them, but 
it made no difference ; it did not change even the length 
of the intervals. We thought it was strange that he did 
not "yell" immediately after the discharge of our guns. 
It was strange, but he has since explained all this by say- 
ing, "I did not hear your guns; I did not hear your 
shouts;" and consequently it still seems strange to me 
that we were able to hear his "yells." These facts can 
only be explained by some one who possesses a more 
thorouofh knowledofe of acoustics and our acoustic rela- 
tions at that moment than your humble servant. 

The reader will be still further astonished when he 
learns that it has been definitely determined since that 
eventful day that Mr. Mildenberger was separated from 
us by no less than four English geographical miles. The 
photographer, having yelled till he was tired of this exer- 
cise, still continued to walk, walk, walk ! Although sorely 
fatigued, he was so much disturbed in mind that when he 
seated himself for a moment he could only remain in that 
posture for a few seconds. The hours dragged slowly on, 
midnight came, and he now seated himself before the 
blazing fire, closed his eyes and did sleep. It was the sleep 
of exhaustion, — a troubled slumber. In this condition he 
dreamed that he was a soldier once more ; that the fates of 
war had gone against him. The army to which he belonged 
had been operating in a wild country ; had suffered a most 
disastrous defeat ; the soldiers had fled from the field ; had 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 163 

entered a great wilderness, in order to effect escape, but 
that they were closely pursued by a savage and relentless 
foe. Listen ! He even now hears the shouts of the vic- 
tors ; they have probably picked up some stragglers from 
the defeated army. A few moments later and he hears a 
lively discharge of firearms. These sounds are followed 
by some desultory musket-shots, then all is quiet once 
more. The photographer now fancies that the victors 
have come upon a considerable body of his comrades, who 
have attempted to defend themselves rather than surrender 
as prisoners of war. He now realizes the imminent dan- 
o-er with which he is surrounded. He imagines that he 
is fleeing rapidly before the enemy ; and we know that he 
is restless and constantly moving. Behold him now ! His 
eyes are widely open ; he glares wildly about him ; still he 
slumbers. In this disturbed sleep he sees the merciless savage 
peering from behind every forest-tree and bush upon him. 
He calls aloud, " What shall I do ? I am already sur- 
rounded!' He now beholds the brutal, bloody, and fiend- 
ish Troquois hidians creeping stealthily upon him ; they are 
in full war-paint a?id armed with their barbarous instru- 
ments of war. This is their moment of triumph over a poor 
defeated Httron I They have risen to their feet, and now 
rush forward upon our sleeping soldier I The instru7ne7its 
of death are already uplifted ; an unearthly yell is heard 
lohich echoes from lake to lake ! Our photographer springs 
to his feet ; looks wildly about him. He is now awake ; 
nevertheless he hears a doleful sound : the wolves are 
howling to-night like so many demons. He had frequently 
heard them howl, but never before did their voices sou7id so 



I 64 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

near and hatcfiii. They are no longer musical to his ear, 
but truly demoniacal to-night. He had been seated by the 
fire about two hours, but in his horrible dream he had 
suffered the pangs of a thousand deaths. There was no 
more slumber for him that niMit. He would not even seat 
himself before the fire, but walked again "to and fro," 
endeavoring to recall the meanderings of the previous day, 
and to determine upon some plan by which he could return 
to the camp. The dawn of day finally appeared. His 
plan was now matured. He would endeavor to retrace 
his steps ; if he could do this, then he could finally reach 
us once more. The idea that it would become necessary 
for him to retrace his steps had not occurred to him during 
his wanderings of the previous day. He had moved off 
boldly then, trusting to good luck rather than any knowl- 
edore of woodcraft to brinor him back to us. This man, in 
fact, had been absolutely reckless in his wanderings since 
he entered the forest. He did not, apparently, realize 
that there was danger in straying about the wilderness 
without the aid of a guide who was familiar with every 
lake, mountain, and hill. 

He had never yet attempted the practice of that pre- 
caution which even the best guides frequently take in this 
grand forest, and which they learned from the Indians. I 
have frequently observed that my guide, the moment he 
started from camp, commenced to break the twigs or small 
branches of the bushes with which he came in contact, care- 
fully turning the broken twig backwards towards the camp, 
and continued this practice until he was nearly ready to 
start homeward, when he would face about and return on 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 165 

this trail. This procedure is not practised after the snow 
has fallen, so long as it remains capable of receiving the 
impression which makes the trail. Thus we find him suf- 
fering from his own neglect ; but we feel assured that he is 
fast learning to live, and we trust that he may live long to 
learn. Let us now return to him. He is surrounded by 
the gray dawn of morning ; is now ready to attempt to 
retrace his steps. He utters one tremefidous yell, which is 
heard distinctly in our camp, four miles away. He now 
starts on his return ; the captain at the same time sets out 
in search of him. They met in the woods ; it was a joyous 
meeting; the woods resounded with their joyful shouts. 
We have already described the return of the lost photog- 
rapher to our camp, but have said nothing in regard to his 
personal appearance. This description is possibly unneces- 
sary to those who have read carefully his adventure. 

It is entirely natural that the reader should suppose the 
photographer's expression to be perfectly woe-begone, and 
at the same time that it should be haggard. I can assure 
him that even these words fail to convey any adequate idea 
of the poor man's personal appearance. He had certainly 
suffered during the last eighteen hours about as much as it 
is possible for any man to suffer in that brief space of time, 
but it had taught him a valuable lesson, one which he did 
not forget while we remained in Canada, and if you desire, 
even at this date, to hear from his own lips a sad narrative 
of his experience during the night that he was lost in the 
wilderness, it is only necessary to ask him about that night 
which he spent on Buck Lake. 

Our party now encamped on Long Lake, spent the 



I 66 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

time intervening between the return of the photographer 
and the 15th of October, was spent, very pleasantly, in deer- 
hunting, partridge-shooting, trout-fishing, and the taking 
of negatives. On the 12th of October occurred a very un- 
expected and memorable event in the life of the author, — 
his first meeting with a large bull moose face to face. It is 
feared though that this incident will lack pathos for our 
readers, as it did not result tragically for either the man 
or the moose. The morning of this eventful day was 
spent by our party in deer-hunting and fishing. Mid-day 
found us, however, back in our camp. Both the captain and 
myself remained in camp until about four o'clock, when I 
started out for a tramp, taking with me two bird-dogs and 
a shot-gun. The first part of this tramp was entirely un- 
eventful, and the meeting which I now report did not occur 
until about half-past five o'clock. I was at this time walking 
quite rapidly down a ravine which was bounded on either 
side by low hills. The dogs were running a few rods ahead 
of me, when I was suddenly startled by a noise in the 
bushes, and instantly beheld, standing before me, a large 
bull moose within less than six rods of the muzzle of my 




OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



167 



CHAPTER IX. 

A Shot at a Bull Moose — Following the Moose Trail — Moose-calling — 
Breaking Camp on Long Lake — Camp on Trail between Upper Long 
AND Sugar-Bush Lakes — Bad Weather and Consequent Delay — Prep- 
aration AND Start on the Reconnoissance, 



% 



.^^^^^^''^ HIS animal was probably 
lying down when he dis- 
covered me, and the noise 
' which attracted my attention 

to the spot where I saw him was 
probably caused by his rising. I 
must confess that I was taken some- 
\\hat by surprise. I realized at 
this instant that I was ill pre- 
' ^^ pared to meet this sort of 
^C^ft^j game. The bird-dogs ap- 
peared still more sur- 
prised ; they stood where I first discovered them, — only 
about twenty feet from the king of the forest, but showed 
no disposition to move, and they were also silent as the 
grave. This position was firmly maintained by them until 
the animal had finally concluded to withdraw from us, and 
had actually started off, when the dogs promptly followed 
and gave tongue in great abundance, although I observed 
that they kept a very respectful distance from the fleeing 
beast. The first glance which I obtained of this huee 




1 68 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 




" The first glance which I obtained of this huge animal was while he was standing 
with his side towards me." 



animal was while he was standing with his side towards me. 
I dropped instantly on my knees in order that I might 
more readily make search for a cartridge charged with 
buckshot. I thought I had some in the pocket of my 
hunting-coat. I drew from my pockets all my cartridges ; 
placing them on the ground before me, after examining 
each separately, I discovered, to my sorrow, that all were 
loaded with number five shot. 

What could I do ? The moose was now facing me, 
having changed his position and advanced a few steps 
nearer towards me. He was now looking directly at me, 
and seemed to be deeply interested in what I was doing. 
At that moment I removed from my pocket a Winchester 
rifle cartridge, calibre 44, and the idea struck me, I will 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 169 

put this down on the bird-shot and blaze away at this 
animal. Prompted by this thought, I dropped a rifle car- 
tridge into each barrel of my shot-gun and fired at the 
moose's head. The old king of the forest did not imme- 
diately change his position, but within a few seconds he 
lowered his head and shook it violently, while at the same 
time he stamped on the ground. It was evident that I 
had only succeeded in enraging the old monster. He was 
now acting like an infuriated bull which had been assailed 
by the horseman and afterwards attacked by the banderil- 
leros in a Spanish bull-fight. 

I did not stop to discuss the question, What will the 
moose do under these circumstances ? In fact, the thought 
uppermost in my mind at that moment was, What shall I 
do ? How can I kill the monster ? I remembered that 
after firing the shot I had thoughtlessly lowered the 
muzzle of my gun, thus allowing the rifle-bullet to fall from 
the barrel which I had not yet discharged. I now began 
to search for another rifle cartridge, I finally found two. 
The thought now occurred to me, it will be prudent to 
reload the barrel that had been emptied. Unfortunately, 
I had trouble in removing the empty cartridge. While 
thus engaged, the animal began to move sluggishly, not 
directly forward, but forward and slightly to the left. He 
had not taken many steps when I succeeded in getting the 
empty cartridge out of the barrel and a loaded one into 
its place, then quickly the rifle cartridges were dropped on 
the bird-shot. This work had been performed too tardily. 
It is true the animal was still within sight. The gun was 
quickly raised, but I was unable to draw a clear bead on 



170 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



the fleeing monster. I waited a few seconds, hoping for a 
better opportunity ; but finally he made his escape without 
my firing another shot at him. I have already said that 
the movements of this animal were sluggish at first, but 
they gradually became more rapid, and he had not trav- 
elled more than five or six rods when his antlers were 
thrown on his neck, and his movements had become so 
rapid as to make his body indistinctly visible. The most 
rapid movements of the animal have been described as a 
shambling trot, which I am convinced is correct, while its 
walk is not less awkward. The bird-dogs, that had re- 
mained immovable and as silent as the dead in the tombs 
of Egypt until the great monster had fairly started away 
from them, now followed in hot pursuit and gave an abun- 
dance of tongue. 

The striking of the great antlers of this king of the 
forest against the small tree and brush, as he rapidly 
passed through the woods, made nearly as much noise as 
our discreet dogs ; but these sounds were soon lost to my 
ears. 

I do not think that either myself or the moose was ever 
entirely satisfied with the termination of this meeting. It is 
true that the moose rather reluctantly withdrew from the 
field after I had drawn blood, but he did not thereby yield 
to the demand which I had made. The bird-shot fairly 
peppered the poor animal's face, while the rifle cartridge 
went far from the mark at which it was aimed. 

I now started for the lake-shore in order that I mio^ht 
signal the captain to come for me with a canoe and take me 
back to the camp, my wishes in this matter being made 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



171 



known to him by the firing of a prearranged signal. I 
took the precaution, however, in this case to break the 
bushes along my route to the shore, so that I might be able 
to return to this spot the next morning in company with 
my guides. The captain now made his appearance, and 
we returned to camp. 

This day had been cloudy, and there was an occasional 
sprinkling of rain, whilst during the night there was a 
pretty heavy fall. I dreamed much during the sleeping 
hours of the niq-ht of moose and moose-huntine. We 
arose the following morning soon after daylight. It was still 
cloudy, but the rain had ceased. We started immediately 
after breakfast for the scene of my meeting with the moose. 
The precaution which I had taken on the previous day en- 
abled me to readily approach the spot. We discovered 
this morning' that an old tree standinof near where the 
moose's head had been had received the rifle cartridge. 
Prior to this meeting with the moose, the question had 
been frequently discussed around our camp-fire whether it 
were practical to trail these animals without the assistance 
of a tracking snow. The captain had firmly maintained 
that it was impracticable, more especially at this particu- 
lar season while the ground is covered with newly-fallen 
leaves, which lie very lightly on the earth-mould in which 
the impression of the foot is made. The captain, however, 
informed us that he had never attempted to follow a trail 
of the moose under these circumstances, but was, neverthe- 
less, fully assured that it could not be done. The author, 
on the contrary, stoutly maintained that it was possible, that 
this fact had been repeatedly demonstrated by other sports- 



1/2 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



men, and that it was only necessary to examine their 
records to prove its feasibiHty. The captain said in reply 
to this argument, "I don't believe very much in these 
statements made in books, but I shall test this question at 
the first opportunity." 

Here was the opportunity, and the captain was not slow 
to avail himself of it. We started off on the trail, which 
we followed without intermission until about two o'clock in 
the afternoon. This trail was very circuitous. We started 
on it about a mile from our camp, followed it about eight 
miles, and were then within three hundred yards of our 
tent. This morning was cloudy ; some rain fell, though not 
enough to seriously embarrass us ; but the rainfall of the 
previous night made the trailing of the moose more difficult 
than it would otherwise have been. The morning's labor 
has demonstrated the fact, to the entire satisfaction of the 
captain and all the others in our party, that a moose may 
be quite easily trailed without the aid of a tracking snow. 
It is true that some difficulty is found in those cases where 
the trails intersect each other, where the animals have 
passed principally over rocky ground which is not covered 
with a sufficient amount of earth-mould to receive the im- 
pressions, and likewise in those cases where the earth is 
covered so completely with a short, thick underbrush that 
the animal's foot does not really come in contact with the 
earth. 

The captain was very sceptical in regard to moose- 
calling, and I attempted to convince him by reading from 
Frank Forester's "Field Sports" the following: 

" Another, and yet more fatal, method by which man 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 173 

treacherously turns the poor brute's very pleasure into a 
lure to certain death, is to simulate the cry of the cow 
moose, which is easily done by immersing the lower end of 
a common cow-horn partially in the water of some pool or 
river, and blowing through it in a note very easily acquired, 
which perfectly resembles the lowing of the female, and 
which rarely or never fails to bring down the finest of the 
bulls from their haunts in the mountain glens, to the am- 
bush of the lurking hunter, in search of their amorous 
mates. The Indians use for this purpose the bark of the 
beech or alder, or a postman's tin horn, and with this rude 
implement are perfect adepts in producing the sound re- 
quisite to call the bull to his love. The afternoon and the 
silence of the moonlight niaht are the best times for this 
mode of hunting, and cowardly and treacherous as it may 
appear, it is perhaps the most perilous and not the least 
excitins: method of attacking these o-iant deer. For, in the 
first place, the bull moose may generally be heard roaring 
in the upland glens, responsive to the simulated call, long 
ere they reach the hunter's station, and the interval be- 
tween each successive bellow, nearer and louder, and more 
full of passionate fury, is necessarily a moment of the keen- 
est excitement. Then comes the tramp of his approaching 
gallop, the crash of branches torn asunder by his impet- 
uous charge, and at last the presence, in the full heat and 
heyday of his amorous rage, of the forest champion. 
Again when he discovers that it is a cheat, and that ho cow 
moose is on the spot expectant of his caresses, his fury is 
tremendous and appalling ; for, shy and timid as is this 
monstrous animal at every other season, during the rutting 



174 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

time he is dangerous and savage in die extreme, and will 
even attack a man when provoked, if he cross his path in 
his moments of wanton dalliance. 

" If he discovers then the hunter who is luring him by 
playing with his tenderest passions, he will charge him on 
the instant, fearless ; and woe betide the luckless wight 
whose hand trembles in the aim, or whose rifle misses fire 
at that crisis. A bull moose seventeen or eighteen hands 
in height, with antlers of six feet spread, and hoof as big 
as an ox's, the edges of which cut like a sabre, and which 
he can handle as deftly as a prize-fighter, is anything but a 
pleasant customer at close quarters," 

This statement, however, failed to carry conviction to 
the captain's mind, and his reply was that he had never 
heard this moose-calling, although he had spent much time 
in these forests. In answer to this statement I merely 
called his attention to the fact that he had only been ac- 
quainted with the moose ten or twelve years, since they 
were not previously found in this section of Canada; and 
that, even according to his own admissions, he had never 
spent any time in the moose country during their rutting 
season. "This is all very true," replied the captain. "I 
shall now keep my ears open, and if I hear these bulls 
bellowing, then I shall be prepared to admit the truth of 
the statement made in the book." He had only a short 
time to wait, since the next move brougHt us fairly into 
the moose country, and while we were still pushing for- 
ward on the portage, having scarcely yet reached the 
Sportsman's Paradise, the loud bellowing of a bull moose 
was distinctly heard by our whole party. The captain 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. j 7^ 

listened attentively to these sounds, and then exclaimed, 
" I am satisfied that there is no animal in these woods that 
can make such a noise but the old bull moose ; let us now 
listen for the voice of the cow." The packs were quickly 
placed on the ground, and every ear was attentively listen- 
ing for these sounds. It was not many minutes before the 
old bull's bass voice was distinctly heard bellowing to his in- 
amorata, and the more modest tones of the cow were soon 
heard in reply. The captain instantly said, " I am con- 
vinced by my own ears, and nothing less would have ever 
satisfied me." These sounds were frequently heard by us 
during the ensuing month while we remained in the moose 
country, but we soon lost our interest in them, inasmuch 
as the question which had been raised, in regard to calling 
these animals, was now effectively settled. 

Our departure from the camp on Long Lake took place 
on the 15th of October. The leaves had mostly disap- 
peared from the deciduous trees in this wilderness, thus 
extending our vision, and affording us a better opportunity 
to " still hunt" successfully. We had awaited this condition 
of things with much anxiety, but a still further improve- 
ment would probably soon follow. A light tracking snow 
would now render most favorable the conditions for moose- 
huntino-. The fallino- of the leaves had admitted ligfht into 
the woods, and now a slight fall of snow, three or four 
inches, would enable the sportsman to noiselessly follow 
his game under the most favorable circumstances. The 
most favorable condition for still-hunting commonly follows 
soon after a fall of snow. Durinof the storm the o-ame 
remains inactive ; but when it has ceased, the moose, deer. 



176 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

and other animals come out from their covers and leave 
their fresh imprints on the snow, where there were pre- 
viously no tracks or traces. Under those circumstances 
no time need be lost in an examination of the track for the 
purpose of determining whether it be new or old ; but 
when several days have elapsed since the fall of snow, then 
it remains to be determined whether the imprints are fresh 
before the sportsman spends much time on them. The 
reader will now remember that this hunt was organized 
especially for the purpose of hunting the moose, and, inas- 
much as our guides were entirely inexperienced in the art 
of " calling," it therefore was necessary for us to depend 
entirely on trailing them. The halt on Long Lake was 
preparatory for the work which was to follow. 

Having spent considerable time in these preparations, 
and also in awaiting the arrival of those conditions favor- 
able to moose-hunting, we finally broke camp about eight 
o'clock on the morning of October 15. We travelled in 
our canoes as far as the head of Long Lake. We then 
crossed over the portage from this lake to Beaver Pond. 
The distance from Long Lake to the pond is about a mile 
and a half. The guides were rather slow in bringing up 
our luggage this morning; and, therefore, for the purpose 
of passing the time pleasantly, I started off into the woods, 
taking with me Ponto and Bummer in search of partridges. 
I found a number of birds about two miles from the pond, 
and killed two with my rifle. I then made an attempt to 
return to the place which I had left in the early part of the 
day. This was a much more difficult task than I had an- 
ticipated ; but, after having wandered about some time, I 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 177 

finally struck the trail which I had passed over in the 
morning. I was now in doubt in regard to the direction 
which I should here take, but started off promptly, knowing 
full well that I should soon recognize some familiar object. 
I soon found myself once more on Long Lake. It was 
now entirely clear to my mind what must be done. It was 
only necessary for me to turn about and follow the trail 
back to Beaver Pond ; which was very easily accomplished 
owing to the fact that the passage of our party over the 
same during the day had converted it into a well-marked 
pathway. I soon reached this pond, but a new difficulty 
was now encountered. The photographer and both guides 
had moved forward from this spot towards the next lake, 
taking with them all the baggage, and inasmuch as they 
travelled in the canoes, the trail was lost at the water's 
edge only a few feet from the spot where I had been in 
the morning, but I did not know where I would be able 
to pick it up again. There was no time to be lost. Dark- 
ness would soon be on us. I now determined to walk 
around the pond; a somewhat difficult task, owing to the 
marshes or swamps that surrounded it. I was fortunate 
in finding the trail made by our party where it left this 
pond, and promptly started forward on it, being happily 
rewarded by coming up with my friends after a brisk walk 
of about twenty minutes. The trail that I was now fol- 
lowing I found to be remarkably clear, owing to the fact 
that it had been so recently made. The photographer and 
guides had halted on the portage, erected their tents, and 
were prepared to spend the night pleasantly. 

The deer-dogs were absent from the camp this morning 



178 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

when we moved out, and have not yet made their appear- 
ance. The following day was spent on the portage. The 
captain returned in the morning to the old camp on Long 
Lake, and there found the missing dogs, which he immed- 
iately brought forward. George Ross commenced at an 
early hour to carry forward our luggage to the next lake. 
The following night found us encamped on the portage 
leading from Upper Long Lake to Sugar-Bush Lake. I am 
aware of the fact that having written much of Long Lake, 
it is unfortunate to be compelled to write of another lake as 
Upper Long Lake, but this condition of things seems un- 
avoidable, since these names are the only ones which have 
heretofore been applied to these bodies of water. It was 
eight days after our departure from the camp on Long 
Lake, where we had prepared our venison and made every- 
thing ready for the grand moose-hunt, before we really 
started out on the long-contemplated reconnoissance. This 
time was not, however, spent in complete idleness. The 
reader will remember that we started from Long Lake on 
the morning of the 1 5th of October, and that we reached 
our camping-ground, which is on the portage between Upper 
Long Lake and Sugar-Bush Lake, on the evening of the 
1 6th, thus having consumed two clays in travelling towards 
the moose country. This camp is situated about ten rods 
from Upper Long Lake and a half-mile from Sugar-Bush 
Lake. While the guides were clearing the ground which 
we had selected for our tent, they discovered a considerable 
number of modern Indian relics. This discovery led them 
to look about the spot more carefully, and a few minutes' 
observation was sufficient to satisfy the whole party that 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 179 

this ground had been occupied as an Indian camp within a 
few years. The most of die large trees had then disap- 
peared, but since that time a thick underbrush had sprung 
up. The captain remembered that an Indian tribe had 
located here about ten years previously, engaged in the 
manufacture of maple-sugar during a single season, and 
then departed for parts to him unknown. It was this fact 
which had given the name (Sugar-Bush) to the lake that 
was situated about half a mile from our camp. We dis- 
covered about here many old birch-bark vessels, some of 
which were employed by them to receive the sap as it 
came from the trees, and others that had evidently been 
used to transport it from the trees to the spot where it 
was evaporated, or " boiled down," as the backwoodsmen 
say. 

The weather during our stay in this camp, prior to 
taking our departure for the reconnoissance, was exceed- 
ingly changeable. One day it might rain. The next would 
probably give us a variety; thus, in the morning it might be 
cloudy, but before noon we might get rain, snow, and hail, 
followed by a cold night and the formation of ice. In other 
cases the rainfalls were accompanied with heavy thunder 
and followed by warm sunshine. This sort of weather was 
not encouraging to any party of sportsmen contemplating 
cutting loose from their base, leaving behind them tents and 
blankets, sleeping in the woods without shelter, and all this 
exposure and hardship merely for the love of the chase. 
Furthermore, the reader should at this point fully under- 
stand that even now we are having very fine sport. Since 
our arrival here we have killed many deer, have taken 



l8o THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

many trout, and the photographer has kept our larder 
amply supplied with ruffed grouse. In this camp our sup- 
plies have been most plentiful, and I have been rather re- 
luctantly compelled to think that our guides have very litde 
anxiety to go forward ; but my wishes in this matter do not 
harmonize with theirs. I came into this wilderness for the 
special purpose of hunting the moose, and I am determined 
to accomplish this object. 

We find many moose-tracks in these woods ; we have 
spent two days in trailing, but they have thus far eluded 
us. I am saUsfied, in my own mind, that we are scarcely 
yet on the border of the Sportsman's Paradise. That 
there is such a place I am not prepared to deny ; but the 
all-important question at this moment is, How shall I now 
reach it? It is feared that the reader, at this moment, is 
ready to assert that my faith is not well founded. I must, 
therefore, ask him to keep silence for the time being, while 
I assure him that I have studied this question very care- 
fully since my arrival in Canada, and have still an abun- 
dance of faith. Let the reader carefully review with me 
the ground-work of my faith before he follows me on my 
reconnoissance, because I wish him to become an enthusiast, 
in order that he may enjoy this moose-hunt as I enjoyed 
it. Therefore I will here confide to him the fact that, prior 
to my departure for Canada in 1884, I had posidvely 
learned that Captain Ross and his brother, Wellington, 
had already killed several moose in this country. The 
exact number I had not yet learned. After my arrival, I 
ascertained from the captain that he had killed ten and his 
brother had killed a somewhat smaller number. I now 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. i8i 

endeavored to locate the place where these successes had 
occurred, and, at the same time, to fix the limit or the ex- 
treme range of the moose. Both the captain and Welling- 
ton aereed that their successful moose-hunts had taken 
place near the divide of the water-sheds of the Maganeta- 
wan and Ottawa Rivers, about twenty-five miles west of 
the source of the Petarwawa River. They were united 
in asserting that they had killed their moose within a space 
of less than two miles square, but they supposed that the 
moose ranged over a space in this forest seventy-five miles 
square. Wellington supposed the centre of the moose 
region to be near the source of the Petarwawa River, and 
he was inclined to urge us forward to that point as the 
most desirable spot to commence our hunt. 

The captain, however, opposed this suggestion on the 
grounds that it would be almost impossible to transport, 
from a point so distant, our trophies. It was also apparent 
to me that, inasmuch as neither of my guides had ever 
been in the Petarwawa country, it would probably be 
better to keep on the ground with which the captain was 
already familiar. The question which I raised in the early 
part of my sojourn in the woods, during this hunt, was, 
How shall we most advantageously locate the whereabouts 
of moose in the greatest abundance? The fact was recog- 
nized by all our party that the moose might be found 
scattered over a very large portion of this territory, but 
it was also unquestionably true that in certain districts 
they would be found in large numbers. I had carefully 
discussed, with the captain and his brother, the most prac- 
tical method of startincr a moose-hunt, and had sues^ested 



1 82 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

to them the plan which was finally adopted, and designated 
by us as a reconnoissance. 

This plan, as adopted, required the consideration of 
two very important subjects. It had been determined that 
the reconnoissance should include the making of a circuit 
of eighty or one hundred miles. The performance of this 
task would require about four or five days. We have 
already considered some of the questions pertaining to 
the locality of the hunt, and have finally determined that 
our circuit shall embrace the ground which has already 
been so successfully hunted over by the captain and his 
brother. 

The next important question demanding our consider- 
ation is. Where shall we abandon our tents and luggage ? 
The point selected for this purpose must be such as will 
recommend it on account of its proximity to the ground 
on which the hunt is to be made, while it is likewise 
highly important that it should not be too far removed 
from some point which is accessible to an ox-team and 
jumper, inasmuch as the lakes and rivers will be frozen 
over before our hunt is ended, and thus closed against our 
canoes. These questions were all carefully discussed, and 
the captain's thorough knowledge of the country enabled 
him to determine for us all these highly-important points. 
He assured me that our tents and other luo-oraQ-e could be 
brought to a point about five miles distant from the nearest 
settler's cabin, and there, he thought, we could obtain the 
services of the ox-team and jumper. It should be re- 
membered, however, by our readers who are unacquainted 
with these grand forests, that some sort of a road must 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 185 

exist in order to make the ox-team and jumper available 
in these cases. The captain informed us that the road 
which now terminated at the settler's cabin was only avail- 
able for this sort of travel ; and we therefore determined 
to move our camp from its present location forward to 
Camp Lake, where we would be only about five miles from 
Mr. Harkness's clearings, the nearest pioneer settler. 
This movement was finally postponed until after the re- 
connoissance, for the reason that it was thought barely 
possible that our discovery of moose in some unexpected 
part of the forest might render some other base more 
desirable. The arrangements for this reconnoissance con- 
templated the maintenance of camp in our rear, where the 
trophies of the hunt, the photographer's instruments, and 
other luggage could remain safely in the care of Milden- 
berger, while the captain, George Ross, and myself were 
making our tour through this grand forest for the pur- 
pose of determining the exact locality where the moose 
were to be found in the greatest abundance. It therefore 
became necessary for the guides, before our start, to pre- 
pare the wood for Mr. Mildenberger (inasmuch as he had 
not yet become expert in the use of the axe) which would 
enable him to keep the fire burning during our absence. 
It was also thought necessary to take enough bread to 
serve the whole party through the entire reconnoissance. 
Attempts at these preparatory efforts were often made last 
week, but in every instance the work was interrupted by a 
storm. The weather has been very unfavorable. Storm 
after storm has interfered with our plans. I am now tired 
of and impatient with these delays. I must soon push 



1 84 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

forward the reconnoissance and thus put an end to this 
anxiety and doubt, whether the weather becomes more 
favorable or not, as I can no longer endure this suspense. 
Deer-hunting has already become monotonous to me, and 
I am determined to seek in this grand forest larger game, 
other scenery, and new excitement in the chase. 

I am told by the captain that the exposure and fatigue 
inseparable from moose-stalking is so great as to deter 
many of the pioneer backwoodsmen from attempting to 
participate in it. He pictures for me the discomforts that 
may arise from a severe storm at this season of the year, 
when we are separated from our tents and blankets, and 
thus compelled to endure its merciless peltings after a long 
and weary day's tramp. He reminds me of the fact that 
when I first came into the Canadian forest, only a few years 
since, I was scarcely able to endure the hardships of an 
ordinary deer-hunt, and then asks me. Can you nozv tramp 
forty miles in a day, sleep on the frozen ground at night, 
and repeat this effort for several days continuously? He 
likewise kindly suggested that he, accompanied by George 
Ross, could make this reconnoissance while I remained in 
the camp with the photographer, and thus avoided the 
hardships attendant on the discovery of the most favorable 
locality for moose-hunting. It should here be remembered 
by our readers that it was now, at this time, our intention 
to discover the whereabouts of the game which we sought, 
rather than to kill the same. 

This proposition was rejected by the author, since it did 
not harmonize with his wishes. He desired greater activity, 
new sports, and changed surroundings. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 185 

The 23d day of October had been reached ; our party 
was still encamped on the portage between Upper Long 
and Sugar-Bush Lakes ; the preceding night had been 
cold and rainy, the morning was cold and cloudy, with oc- 
casional gusts of wind accompanied by falls of snow and 
hail. This damp, cold atmosphere is productive of a chilly, 
disagreeable sensation which seems to permeate every part 
of our bodies while we stand listlessly about our camp- 
fire. These disagreeable sensations, coupled with autumn's 
grave and cheerless surroundings, have caused me to think 
this morning of my fireside and family. The leafless trees, 
sombre clouds, angry gusts of wind, and the pelting storms 
do not commonly produce in me the most agreeable mental 
conditions, but that morning I was especially gloomy. It 
was therefore necessary that I should make some effort to 
arouse myself from this horrible condition of despondency. 
I could not bear the thought of remaining one day longer 
Inactive in camp. It was therefore necessary that we 
should start immediately on our long-premeditated recon- 
noissance, and .start we did, although the weather was most 
unpromising. The announcement to my guides that we 
would make ready and leave our camp as soon as possible 
was, I presume, owing to the unsettled state of the weather, 
somewhat of a surprise; however, but little preparation was 
now required, and before nine o'clock we took our de- 
parture from camp. We started off in the direction of 
Sugar-Bush Lake, and discovered a fresh moose-trail within 
three hundred yards of our tent. These imprints of the 
animal's feet left in the soft earth were so clear that we 
were entirely satisfied as to his identity, and it was equally 



1 86 ■ THE SPORTSMAN' S PARADISE; 

certain that this traveller had crossed at this point during 
the previous night, since there were no tracks at this place 
during the preceding day. The tracks indicated that the 
animal had passed leisurely within a few rods of our tents 
while we were probably sleeping, and near us there were at 
that moment five dogs. This is the second moose which 
has come within close proximity to us during the night 
since we reached the Lower Long Lake. Having spent a 
few moments in the examination of this trail, we then 
started forward and soon reached Sugar-Bush Lake, where 
we entered our canoes, paddled across, and were soon 
tramping once more in the forest. Hail and rain, with fitful 
gusts of wind, now alternated with each other, but my body 
was warmed with the exercise and my spirits buoyed up in 
anticipation of the grand and exciting chase on which we 
expected so soon to enter. Sunshine was no longer neces- 
sary for my happiness, and the " blue devils" which made 
time hang so heavily on my hands in the morning had now 
been driven off. 

Our route this morning took us through a heavily- 
wooded and somewhat hilly country, although our pro- 
gress was not much impeded by underbrush, and this, in 
fact, is generally true of the great forest in which we are 
now journeying, except where we are so unfortunate as 
to enter its swamps and low ground. We have, hereto- 
fore, travelled through this forest in our canoes, keeping 
on the lakes and rivers as long as this was practicable, en- 
deavoring to avoid, so far as possible, long portages, but 
the country in which we are now about making our recon- 
noissance is not so well adapted to this mode of travel. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 187 

The lakes are less numerous and the portages are longer ; 
and, furthermore, we could not, in this way, accomplish the 
object of this movement, since we would not be brought 
into contact with the evidences of the presence of moose, 
which are generally found only in the forest. 

The canoes we therefore abandoned on Suear-Bush 
Lake, and we now endeavored to follow the ridges and 
high ground as much as possible. The captain is carrying, 
this morning, a tomahawk, one tin cup, one coffee- or tea- 
kettle, one rubber blanket, one single woollen blanket, 
a small quantity of dried venison, bread, coffee, tea, and 
salt. The reader will now observe that we have aban- 
doned nearly all our camp luggage, that we are not even 
supplied with knives and forks, and possess only a single 
cup from which to drink our coffee, although there are 
three persons in the party. The captain estimates the 
weight of his pack at fifteen pounds, and, therefore, may 
be regarded as in light marching trim. He walked in front 
of the party, George Ross and myself following behind, 
sometimes in true Indian file, while at others we fell into 
position on the right and left flanks. The captain's ad- 
vance was at all times noiseless, while his keen and prac- 
tised eye penetrated into every nook and corner. He 
likewise listened to every sound, and instantly recognized 
the voice of every bird and beast of the forest. The long 
and active experience which he has had in the Canadian 
forests has made him an expert in all matters pertaining 
to woodcraft, trapping, and hunting. The morning's 
journey passed without the occurrence of any incident 
worthy of narration. At one o'clock we halted on a high 



i88 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



ridge, which, at this moment, was whitened with snow, and 
started a small fire in order to prepare some coffee. A 
few moments after this halt was made, George Ross dis- 
covered a partridge standing on the ground about thirty- 
yards from him. He raised his Winchester rifle and fired 
two shots at the bird's head. I then called to this guide 
to stop shooting at the bird and give the captain and my- 
self a chance. This he readily consented to do, and then 
we took our two shots, but still the bird remained un- 
harmed, and finally concluded to fly off without causing 
the waste of more ammunition. This failure to kill our 
game must be explained, I think, by the extreme politeness 
of the bird, which continued to render obeisance to us by 
unceasingly bowing its head from the moment when it was 
first discovered until it flew away. 

Lest the reader should, however, find himself inclined 
to think that the failure was simply due to a want of skill, 
which he may now imagine that he possesses, I will here 
only venture to suggest that, when an opportunity offers, 
he, too, should try, as an experiment, to decapitate, with a 
rifle, an exceedingly polite partridge while it is constantly 
bowing Its head. 




(Lv iSiJ ^ 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



189 



CHAPTER X. 




The First Dinner — Killed a Deer — Following a Moose-Trail — Camped on 
THE Trail — Preparation for spending the Night — Our Lean-to — A 
Snow-Storm — Long, Dreary Tramp — Discovery of a Moose- Yard — A 
Highly-Exciting Chase — Killed two Red Deer — A Disgusted and Angry 
Captain — Honest Toil brings Refreshing Sleep — The Hunt resumed. 

OFFEE having been prepared, the captain 
opened his pack, drew from it some dried 
venison and cramper, a preparation vuhich 
is sometimes by courtesy called bread, 
and then proceeded to distribute these 
articles to the party. He then filled 
the tin cup with hot coffee, passed the 
same to me, and when I had taken a 
drink of this delicious beverage I returned it to him, 
and he proceeded to quench his thirst, and then passed 
the cup to George Ross. In this manner the cup was 
kept circulating, and we were thus supplied with our 
coffee. The captain was the only individual in our party 
supplied with a hunting-knife. George Ross and myself 
were, however, provided with rather small pocket-knives ; 
it will therefore be readily seen that the captain was 
able to make the rough sections of dried venison and 
cramper with his knife, while we could with our own im- 
plements make the necessary subdivisions, and thus pre- 
pare our food for mastication. Neither forks nor plates 
had been provided for this reconnoissance ; fingers taking 



I go THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

the place of the former article, while a chip from a neigh- 
boring tree, or a suitable piece of birch-bark, served as a 
very good substitute for the latter. The earth, which we 
commonly employed as a table, and which we likewise 
used in lieu of camp-stools or chairs when taking our 
meals, was now covered with snow, and consequently we 
remained standing while taking this mid-day meal. 

Ample justice having been done to the coffee, dried 
venison, and cramper, and without waiting for dessert, 
finger-bowl, or cigars, we moved forward. We had pro- 
ceeded about one mile from the spot where the halt had 
been made for our dinner when the captain, who was 
leading the party, being only a few yards in advance of 
George Ross and myself, raised his right hand as a signal 
for us to come to a stand-still ; but he soon after beckoned 
us to come forward to the spot where he stood. He had, 
at the moment when he gave the signal to stop, just 
reached a point near the top of a ridge, which we were 
ascending, that enabled him to overlook this eminence and 
obtain a view of another ridge, distant about one hundred 
and fifty yards. The instant he gave this signal it was 
plain to both George and myself that he had sighted game. 
His manner at such times was always characteristic, and 
could not be misinterpreted by those who were familiar 
with him. The instant he sio^hted orame he would throw 
up his right hand and then remain as motionless as a 
marble statue, unless he desired to bring either George 
or myself to his side ; but the second signal was sure to 
follow the first during this reconnoissance, since the cap- 
tain did not carry a gun. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 191 

Promptly after the second signal was given, in this 
instance, both George and myself were at the captain's 
side. He now whispered in my ear, " There stands a fine 
buck on the next ridge ; what shall we do, kill him or 
not?" Prior to our departure from the old camp this 
morning I had told the captain that I preferred not to kill 
game, except one bull moose, the head of which I desired 
as a souvenir, unless the flesh could be used as food ; 
hence this conversation, in which the captain urged the 
slaughter, and I rather reluctantly consented to it. Al- 
ready the novelty of deer-shooting had worn off with me, 
having been in the woods now more than a month, and I 
therefore found myself strongly disinclined to continue the 
slaughter except to keep up the food-supply. 

The captain's next inquiry was, "Will you take the shot 
or shall George have it?" My answer was in favor of 
George, who now dropped quietly on his knee, drew a fine 
bead on the animal, which was at this moment slowly walk- 
ing along the ridge, and within a few seconds pulled the 
trigger which sent the leaden pill from his trusty Winches- 
ter rifle into the side of the beautiful creature, which had 
not yet either scented or seen danger. The instant the 
white puff of smoke was seen to issue from the muzzle of 
the gun the deei^ leaped high in the air and bolted forward 
zuith the speed of the wind, the motion of the animal being 
now so rapid as to render -his form indistinctly visible, but 
after thus running about five hundred yards its movements 
became perceptibly slower, more irregular, and it was evi- 
dent that the bullet had struck a vital part. A moment 
later the captain shouted, "He has fallen !" quickly after- 



192 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



wards, " He is up again !" but scarcely had these sounds 
passed away when the deer passed over a ridge and was 
thus lost to view. We started promptly forward to the 
spot where the animal had been seen to fall ; there we 
found the ground covered with blood, and from this point 
we could easily follow him by the bloody trail. He was 
finally found dead on the slope of a hillock only a few 
yards from the spot where he had been last seen. 

It took the captain but a few moments to remove the 
skin and cut from the carcass a choice piece of venison 
sufficient for our supper and breakfast, when we were again 
off on the tramp. 

The storm had now ceased, a little later a bright sun- 
shine had lighted up our pathway through the woods, the 
snow which covered the fallen leaves rapidly disappeared, 
while the fitful gusts of wind which prevailed in the morn- 
ing were entirely absent in the evening. The morning and 
the early part of the afternoon had passed without the dis- 
covery of any fresh moose signs, but our search was re- 
warded later in the day, when we struck a very promising 
trail. The herd consisted of three animals, presumed to be 
one bull and two cows, but I think there is a certain amount 
of uncertainty in the prognosticating of the sex, since it is 
entirely based on the size of the track made by the animal. 
We discovered that these animals had been browsing- near 
the point where we struck their trail, and furthermore, the 
tracks had evidently been made since the snow had melted 
off. Both these discoveries were very encouraging, since 
the moose commonly lies down after eating, and conse- 
quently the hunter reasonably expects to find him within a 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 193 

short distance of the last feeding-ground, while in this in- 
stance the snow had disappeared within the hour preceding 
our arrival on the trail. 

The captain having familiarized himself with all these 
peculiarities of the trail, speedily and forcibly enjoined upon 
us the necessity of moving forward with the greatest de- 
gree of caution, lest by a careless step a noise might be 
made which would frighten away the game that we now 
sought. We are now in a high state of excitement. The 
grandest game in the Canadian forest is now abnost within 
our reach. Our hearts are beating strongly ; hope buoys us 
up ; the long tramp of the day is forgotten ; we feel no 
fatigue and fear no failure. The captain creeps along 
through the brush, over the fallen trees, over the rotten 
twigs, which are frequently so well hidden by fallen leaves 
as to be wholly imperceptible, but there is no sound pro- 
duced by his movements. He trails game as cautiously as 
the cat follows the mouse. The sportsman who attempts 
to follow him should keep well in his rear, but within easy 
hearing distance, so that in the first instance the game may 
not be frightened by a mis-step, and secondly that he may 
be able to come quickly into position when shooting is to 
be done. 

Having spent about two hours on this moose-trail, 
which was at first very circuitous, but which finally lost 
much of this peculiarity, we were reluctantly compelled to 
halt in order to make the necessary preparations for 
spending the night ; we therefore encamped on this trail, 
with the intention of following it up in the morning. The 
first thing done was the selection of a suitable spot on 

13 



194 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

which to erect our lean-to. The place selected for this 
purpose was by the side of the body of an old fallen tree, 
where the ground was favorable for our bed, — free from 
stone, etc. The body of this tree formed a wall, which 
was about two feet high, for the lean-to ; and, inasmuch as 
it rested firmly on the ground at this point, effectually kept 
out the wind on this side of it. The next thing done was 
the preparation of four poles, employed to support the 
roof, which consisted of a rubber cloth, the dimensions of 
which were about five by seven feet. The poles were 
about ten feet in length, with a diameter at the base of 
two and a half inches and somethino- less than one inch at 
the top. The poles, properly sharpened at the base, were 
driven into the o-round on the side of the trunk of the 
fallen tree opposite to the one on which we intended to 
make our bed, and the distance was so chosen that when 
these supports rested on this wall, which served as a ful- 
crum, or prop, the anterior portion of our roof was raised 
about four feet above the ground. The rubber cover was 
then placed over these poles and made fast by the use of 
shoe-strings, that we had brought with us, after which the 
ends of our habitation were closed by evergreen boughs, 
selected for this purpose. It will now be seen by the 
reader that the lean-to has been so constructed as to close 
the sides of it against the wind, and that only the front 
remains open, before which there is placed a fire, which 
is kept burning during the whole night, and which may be 
easily so managed as to supply the requisite amount of 
heat. It was still necessary to provide wood for the fire 
and balsam twigs for the bed. This was promptly done, 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



195 



the wood being placed in such a position as to occasion 
little inconvenience to put it on the fire when it was re- 
quired, while the twigs were arranged in the most ap- 
proved style for the bed. The next order of business 
consisted in the preparation of the evening meal, which 
was composed of venison, coffee, and bread. The fresh 
venison was cut into suitable- pieces and then roasted on 
the spits over our fire, while the coffee was prepared in 
the usual manner. The fresh deer-skin was brought into 
use as a partial cover (although the only one we pos- 
sessed) for the balsam twigs composing our bed. Having 
completed our evening meal, we then took such positions 
about the fire as enabled us to dry our clothing, after 
which we made ready to retire by simply removing our 
boots, which is done as a precautionary act to prevent the 
destruction of the same by fire. The balance of the 
wardrobe is retained on our bodies as an additional pro- 
tection against cold, since we only possess a single blanket 
with which to cover the whole party. The author has 
detailed thus minutely the preparations made for spending 
the first night while we were out on our reconnoissance, 
and this will answer for the succeedino- ones while we were 
thus engaged. 

I suffered somewhat from the cold during the night, 
especially my feet, but my body was pretty well protected 
by sleeping between the captain and George Ross. The 
first part of the night was comparatively warm, but before 
the dawn of day it became very cold, and ice formed nearly 
or quite an inch thick on the little pools of water near us. 

Thus terminates the record of the first day spent on 



196 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

our reconnoissance, while the second begins with the fol- 
lowing- entries : 

Friday, Octobei' 24. — We encamped last night on the 
moose-trail, but it is obliterated this morning by a slight 
fall of snow. The leaves were wet last evening, but are 
firmly frozen now ; consequently the slightest movement 
in walking is attended with a degree of noise entirely in- 
compatible with success in still-hunting. There is no 
possibility of our killing game until we are ablp to move 
about more quietly. The storm continues, — fine, hard 
flakes of snow, closely allied to hail, are falling about us, 
and producing considerable noise by coming in contact 
with the frozen leaves and various parts of the forest-trees. 
The morning was dark and gloomy, but we started off on 
our tramp soon after daylight, having eaten our breaklast 
while it was yet dark. 

The entire party is in good spirits, and, notwithstanding 
the severe and prolonged efforts made yesterday, there is 
no complaint of fatigue or other ill effects arising from 
our tramp. The author found himself somewhat annoyed, 
however, by the entrance of snow into all the crevices of 
his clothing, especially about his neck, where it was con- 
stantly melting, and the cold water gravitating downward 
over the various parts of his body. Under more favorable 
circumstances the remedy for this annoyance would have 
been very easy; but no man in our party is, at this time, 
in possession of a handkerchief, and consequently " the ills 
which cannot be cured must be endured." 

During the whole forenoon the storm continued, and 
at one o'clock, when we halted for our lunch, the ground 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 197 

was everywhere covered to the depth of about two Inches 
with snow. Thus far the day has passed without the oc- 
currence of any important events. In fact, we have seen 
only a single deer-trail, no ruffed grouse, and only two red 
squirrels. The conditions for still-hunting have, however, 
gradually improved, until now we are able to travel without 
much noise. Our party is cheerful ; there is no despond- 
ency, although the prospect for sport is not flattering, in- 
asmuch as the storm causes game to remain under cover. 
Dinner consisted of dried venison, bread, and coffee. The 
last of our fresh venison was consumed at breakfast this 
morning. The midday meal was partaken of in the same 
manner as that already described in connection with the 
first day's tramp, and consequently it need not be more 
fully detailed here. The start was made promptly after 
the completion of this repast, inasmuch as we were less 
comfortable while standing than when walking. 

We have walked rapidly since our start to-day, have 
not turned aside for any purpose, and are off at the same 
pace and pushing forward In the same direction. About 
two o'clock in the afternoon we altered our greneral course 
from northeast to west, and continued in the latter direc- 
tion until nearly three o'clock, when we struck a fresh 
moose-trail. Here besfan the most excitinof chase it has 
ever been my good fortune to participate in, one in which 
our party saw not less than twenty moose, fired probably 
thirty shots, killed two red deer, but absolutely failed with 
the larger game. The following of the moose-trail, which 
we first discovered this afternoon, led us within twenty 
minutes into a large moose-yard, where the tracks of these 



198 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

animals were as numerous as the tracks of cows about a 
large dairy-barn soon after the first fall of snow in autumn. 
Here was probably about one acre of this forest which 
had been so thoroughly tracked over within an hour that 
it was wholly impossible to follow out the trail of any par- 
ticular animal, on account of the numerous intersections 
and obliterations caused by the wanderings of this nu- 
merous herd. 

Slowly, cautiously, and stealthily the captain moves 
over this yard. He discovers every bush which has been 
cropped, every tree that has been peeled, and does not 
even nesflect to examine the evacuations: these he finds are 
still warm. George Ross and myself follow closely behind 
the captain. Our anticipations are now of the most de- 
lightful sort ; the gods are favoring us ; the storm ceased 
just before we discovered the moose-trail, and now the 
conditions are most favorable for the chase. Nature has 
provided a carpet which deadens the sounds that would 
otherwise be made by our foot-falls ; the same covering 
leaves the impress made by the animals' feet, while the 
clouded sky enables us to" behold objects equally well in 
any direction. We had now reached on the outskirts of 
the yard a point where seven tracks diverged from the 
common centre, and this trail we had followed only a short 
distance when the captain turned to me, whispered in my 
ear, " These moose have been here within thirty minutes ; 
follow me slowly ; make no noise !" I was momentarily 
puzzled by the positive assertion of my guide. 

How could he so positively say, " These moose have 
been here within half an hour?" A glance at the tracks 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 19^ 

afforded the explanation. These imprints did not contain 
a single flake of snow ; and therefore it is evident that 
they have been made since the storm ceased. The captain 
now asked me to keep close to him, in order that I might 
be in a position to fire on the game the instant it was 
discovered. This request was cheerfully granted. The 
movements of the captain now became still more cautious, 
while George Ross and myself followed the example of 
our leader. Slowly and cautiously zuj moved forward. 
Every object, whether near or distant, if zuithin the limit of 
our vision, was carefully scanned. Twenty minutes have 
elapsed since we discovered that this trail had been made 
after the storm ceased. At this instant the captain's right 
hand is raised. It is a signal for these zuho folloiu him to 
halt and remaijt silent. It is obeyed with alacrity. The 
captain peers steadily for a few seconds into the forest. 
I was standing only a few feet behind him. He beckoned 
me, with a slight movement of his hand, to come to his 
side. The request was promptly obeyed. At this instant 
I photographed the expression of his face, which still re- 
mains indelibly impressed on my mind. His eyes were 
fixed and glared intently on the game which he had just 
discovered. His lips were tightly closed, his teeth com- 
pletely hidden. The muscles of his face were rigidly fixed, 
exhibitinof the most intense excitement and resolute determi- 
nation. His body was as immovable as a statue. He nozsj 
sharply whispered, " Don t you see them ? There / there / they 
are running I Fire, fire at them!" I had not been able 
to get a glimpse of the herd, although they were standing 
huddled together not more than one hundred yards from 



200 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. 

me, until they began to move ; and then it was only a few 
seconds until their bodies seemed like shadows flying 
through the woods, on account of the rapidity of their 
movements. The fact that the captain was the best rifle- 
shot in our party had been already conceded. We all 
recognized his ability, including both the accuracy and 
rapidity with which his shots were delivered. Neither was 
he ignorant of his prowess, or in the least averse to chaffing 
those who might not possess his skill ; consequently I had 
determined, prior to our departure from our camp, near 
Supfar Bush Lake, that I would o-ive him the doubtful shots 
and take the more certain ones. The reader should now 
remember that the captain is not provided with a rifle ; but 
I now acted promptly on my conservative resolution and 
quickly passed him my Ballard rifle, saying, " Take the 
shot ! Fire away !" He seized the gun and instantly fired. 
Another cartridge is placed in position and quickly dis- 
charged at the retreating herd. The Ballard is dropped 
to the ground and the captain shouted to his nephew, 
"Give me your Winchester!" This request was promptly 
complied with ; the captain was now in the possession of 
the desired rifle with a full magazine, and instantly started 
on a full run after the game. Behold his rapid strides ! 
The best Indian runner would have been distanced by him 
in this chase. George has caught up my rifle ; we both 
follow at our best speed ; he leads us from the start and 
gains on us rapidly ; bang ! bang ! goes the captain's rifle 
while he is still runninof. He had run about eiofht hundred 
yards, when he suddenly stopped, raised his gun, and de- 
liberately took aim, firing four shots during this halt. 




The woods are full of them. 



202 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

George Ross and myself arrived on the spot while the 
sound of the last was reverberating through the forest. We 
saw at this instant a bull moose, which had been standing 
about one hundred yards from our leader, start forward on 
a run. This bull had evidently belonged to the first herd 
that we discovered ; had been prompted by curiosity to 
halt in order to get a better view of his pursuers ; had 
already received the polite attention of the captain, but 
now triumphantly moved off The captain was certainly 
greatly excited and greatly disgusted, probably because 
the old bull paid so little attention to the demand which 
he had made upon him to halt ; but not a full minute 
elapsed after the cessation of this firing when another 
herd of these animals, which we had not previously seen, 
started up about three hundred yards to the right of the 
trail made by the herd that we had been following, al- 
though the latter were, at the moment of their start, 
slightly in the rear of the spot where we were standing. 
Another race now ensued, which was no less exciting 
than the former. The instant that the captain heard the 
sounds they made while rushing through the woods, he in- 
stantly dropped his pack, which he had carried during the 
whole of the first race, and was off in the twinkling of an 
eye. The course taken by these animals led us down the 
gentle slope of a long hill ; consequently I was enabled 
to keep nearer to our leader, although still falling con> 
siderably in his rear. 

At the base of the slope there was found a small brook, 
which the captain crossed in this race. Having crossed 
the stream, the captain threw up his hand as a signal for 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 203 

me to approach him more cautiously, and quickly com- 
menced firing again. He discharged his rifle four times 
in rapid succession, from this point, at a full-grown cow 
that was standing not more than seventy-five yards from 
him, although partially hidden from his view by an inter- 
vening evergreen. This animal now, in entire disregard 
of these polite attentions, started off on a shambling trot, 
and was followed by George Ross, who continued to blaze 
away at varying intervals during a chase which was kept 
up for nearly a mile, when it became apparent to the pur- 
suer that the old cow was getting the best of the race. 
When this animal passed beyond the reach of the captain's 
bullets, it is putting it very mildly to say that he was dis- 
gusted with the results. This feelinof of dispfust was visible 
in all his movements, as well as in his facial expressions. 
Words were not adequate to express his feelings. Having 
remained silent a few minutes, he suggested that we pro- 
ceed to the spot where the cow was standing when he 
fired the shots, and make an examination of the surround- 
ings. This was now done, but only increased his feelings 
of diso^ust ; inasmuch as we failed to find the slightest 
trace of injury to the animal, not even a single drop of 
blood or a lock of hair, on the newly-fallen snow, although 
there was the unmistakable impress of the animal's feet 
in it. In this examination only a single point was settled 
in the affirmative, to our mutual satisfaction, viz., the cap- 
tain had undoubtedly been firing at a living moose, and 
not at an apparition, which might have been conjured up 
in certain brains. Let the reader, how^ever, here under- 
stand that the captain is not a sportsman against whom 



204 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

such a charge could be well maintained. His habits are 
above reproach ; he neither drinks nor smokes, and in all 
things is a plain matter-of-fact person, not even given to 
fiction nor any sort of exaggeration. Having completed 
the examination of this spot, we turned slowly away from 
it and walked side by side, possibly about ten rods, when 
the captain discovered a fine buck that had been feeding 
within fifty yards of us. I saw this beautiful animal a few 
seconds later than my guide. 

The captain said, " Let me now try my skill on this 
deer since I have failed on the moose." The rifle was 
then raised ; the captain took an unusually long time in 
taking aim, but the gun was finally discharged ; the buck 
sprang high into the air, and all was quiet once more. 

The captain quickly remarked, " I killed that deer, al- 
though I have so surprisingly failed to-day with the 
moose." There had been considerable delay after the 
shooting. Our conversation, in the mean while, had not 
related to this buck ; in fact, neither of us thought much 
of this affair, but we naturally conversed on the more ex- 
citing chase of the moose ; consequently, when we went 
in search of the carcass, it was not until after much delay 
that we could find even the spot where the animal stood 
when the shot was fired. Having at first been baftied in 
our search, we returned to the spot where we were stand- 
ing when the shot was delivered, took our directions from 
this point, then found the animal's tracks in the snow, but 
were still unable to find his body ; however, when we 
circled around these imprints, we found the object of our 
search within twenty feet of the point where he had re- 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 205 

ceived his death wound. He had made but a single leap 
and fallen dead. The deer was promptly skinned, and a 
choice piece selected for our present wants, after which the 
balance of the carcass was left behind for the use of the 
wolves. We now retraced our steps to the point where 
the captain had dropped his pack, when he started on the 
second moose chase. Here George Ross joined us and 
reported in glowing terms the incidents of his race, and 
the various causes of its failure. He regretted that his 
feet were not encased in moccasins instead of the heavy 
boots that he was then wearing, and assured us with much 
confidence that, had he been thus attired, he should cer- 
tainly have provided him^self with a hairy overcoat, which 
the old cow would now probably continue to wear, instead 
of himself, durinof the comino- winter. 

This young man talked wildly about the overcoat which 
he had barely failed to secure, and romanced nearly every 
day on this subject as long as he remained in the woods 
with us. The storm now recommenced, — snow falling once 
more, — night was approaching; the lean-to must be put 
up, wood and boughs gathered, and our frugal meal pre- 
pared. The captain desired to take one more look for 
game before darkness covered the earth. He was not 
satisfied with the results of his shootinof durinor the after- 
noon. He wished to make an effort immediately, to re- 
deem his good name ; consequently, after having urged 
George and your humble servant to make the necessary 
preparation for the night, he sallied forth once more in 
quest of moose. 

He had not expressed, either to George or myself, his 



2o6 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

wishes on this subject, but his manner indicated plainly the 
thoughts which were uppermost, — even the desires of his 
heart. Both George and myself set about the performance 
of the task that had been assigned to us. This labor was 
agreeable, — better far than standing still in the wild storm 
and allowing ourselves to be buried beneath the falling 
snow. 

One hour of brisk activity found us prepared for the 
evening meal and awaiting the captain's return. The 
twilight of the evening had gathered around us, when we 
heard the captain's rifle discharged twice, — the second shot 
following the first so quickly that George had been unable 
to complete the exclamation, "He is after them again," 
before he was interrupted by the second sound. The 
question now raised by George was, " What has the cap- 
tain killed?" It was thought probable that the firing had 
been occasioned by the discovery of a moose, since these 
animals were certainly more numerous on this ground than 
the red deer ; but it was not by any means certain that the 
captain had killed one of the kings of the forest. 

It was nearly half an hour after these shots were heard 
when the captain returned to our camp-fire. His face was 
livid with rage and he stormed like a sailor, but no words 
of profanity passed his lips. Neither George nor myself 
ventured to attempt any sort of conversation with him, and 
he rattled on wildly, — " I will never hunt moose again ! If 
these guns were my property I would break them over the 
nearest tree and start for home to-morrow morning !" On, 
still on, he went ! After the storm had raged in all its 
fury for half an hour he cooled off slightly, and then nar- 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 207 

rated to us occurrences which had taken place after his 
separation from us. He said, " I discovered, very soon 
after leaving you, another herd of moose, in which there 
were two large bulls ; succeeded in getting within fifty 
yards of one of these animals, which was standing with his 
head towards me ; no other part of his body being visible 
at this time. I was unwilling to fire at the forehead lest 
the ball should glance from the bone without doing any 
signal service. I determined, therefore, to wait a more 
favorable opportunity when the game moved from its pres- 
ent cover, — hoping he would then present for my shot a 
more vulnerable part of his body. I had not long to wait 
when the movement was made ; but, to my great disgust, 
the moose so turned as to become immediately and en- 
tirely invisible to me, and I could not again secure a 
glimpse of this fleeing animal ; in the mean while, all the 
other members of this herd had made their escape." The 
captain here added, " Was not this luck enough to make 
a saint swear.'*" The interrogatory which immediately 
followed was, "What did you shoot at?" "I had started 
to come in when an old buck jumped up before me. I 
fired at him ; the first shot broke his leg, and the second 
brought him to a full halt. It was then nearly dark and 
I did not stop to skin him, but will attend to that in the 
morning." 

Thus ended the day's chase, and as supper was now 
ready, we proceeded to refresh ourselves as the next order 
of business. The performance of this labor produced a 
most salutary effect on our worthy captain. The angry 
expression I had observed on his face immediately after 



2o8 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

his return to our camp-fire had now been replaced with a 
pleasant smile. The terrible blizzard had passed away, 
and instead of the rag-inor storm we now had sunshine. 
It was now perfectly safe to chaff the captain on his want 
of success, — a pastime that he greatly enjoyed, when it 
was done at some other person's expense, — and it should, 
likewise, be acknowledged that he had always previously 
patiently submitted to this treatment when we were so 
fortunate as to have an opportunity to make the applica- 
tion. Such an excellent opportunity to cancel the old 
score had never before offered since I had been in our 
leader's company. 

I now ventured to suggest to the captain that he was a 
dead shot whenever he drew a bead on a bird or deer, 
but he was not so sure of his game when he sought to kill 
a moose. The captain willingly admitted that the results 
of the chase during the day seemed to justify my conclu- 
sion ; and furthermore assured me that he would do no 
more moose-shooting while he was accompanied by George 
Ross and myself, but leave that part of the sport to us. 

The evening was spent pleasantly under our lean-to, 
while a grand wood fire burned in front of it, although the 
snow continued to fall and was driven by the wind into 
every part of our imperfect shelter. We passed the night 
comfortably, — slept soundly, were thoroughly refreshed, 
and made ready for work the next morning. The earliest 
dawn of day found us busied with the preparation of the 
morning meal. The ground was now covered with snow 
to the depth of nearly five inches, although the prevail- 
ing wind had kept it from collecting upon the trees. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 209 

We have determined to spend the mornnig in search 
of moose in the vicinity where we discovered them yes- 
terday. The captain thinks it probable that there may 
still be some herds which have remained undisturbed on 
these feedinor-grounds. The whole forenoon was spent 
without sighting the object which we sought. It was 
scarcely light this morning when we started from our 
camp. The captain led us promptly to the spot where 
he had shot the old buck on the previous evening. We 
found him buried beneath the snow, and quickly removed 
his skin, which was added to the captain's pack. We then 
proceeded to search diligently for moose, — found a single 
trail, — followed it about two miles, having started him from 
his bed during the tramp ; but, inasmuch as the wind was 
unfavorable, he scented us from afar and was off without 
affording us even a momentary glance at his lordship's 
person. The storm had ceased before we left the camp 
this morning, although it was still cloudy, but the sun came 
out towards noon without producing any visible effect upon 
the snow, since It was yet cold. We returned to the camp 
where we had spent the previous night soon after twelve 
o'clock, prepared our dinner; discovered that our bread 
and coffee were exhausted, and therefore decided to start 
immediately for our camp near Sugar-Bush Lake. The 
captain thought we might succeed in reaching this point 
some time during the forenoon of the next day. It was 
with feelings of despondency that we moved away from 
the scenes of our recent chase, that had afforded us much 
pleasurable excitement, although we had failed to secure 
the coveted prize. 

14 



2IO 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



CHAPTER XI. 




The Discovery of Moose — The Killing of two Moose and the Wounding 
OF Another — Our Camp on Moose Hill — The Return to Sugar-Bush 
Lake — A Severe Rain-Storm — Return to Moose Hill— The Dead Moose 
Photographed— Another Expedition — The Bear — A Snow-Storm — A 
Hard Tramp. 



T was now thought Impossible 
that we should find another op- 
portunity to engage In a moose- 
chase durlnor this reconnols- 
sance, and consequently we 
began to look about us for 
smaller game. We arrived at 
Trout Lake about half-past two o'clock ; discovered a flock 
of ducks ; fired several shots at them, and then started to 
walk around this body of water, which was surrounded by 
a cranberry marsh, but had proceeded only a few rods when 
the captain, who was In advance, discovered a fresh moose- 
track. It was finally determined, after a brief consultation, 
to follow this trail a short distance. In order to determine 
the prospect of success, while our further movements 
would depend entirely on the result of this investigation. 
Consequently the captain threw down his pack and took 
the lead In this movement The trail led directly from the 
lake into a cedar swamp which bordered on the cranberry 
marsh. This swamp was filled with fallen trees, a dense 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 211 

underbrush, and stagnant pools of water. We had not 
followed the trail more than twenty rods when it was dis- 
covered that the old bull moose had been joined by two 
cows, and the trio had been very recently feeding in the 
swamp. The captain was much elated by this discovery, 
and confidently expressed the opinion that these animals 
would be discovered lying down near the spot where the 
browsing had taken place. Our leader was in high spirits ; 
rapidly and noiselessly passed over all obstructions ; sighted 
and carefully examined every object in the neighborhood 
of the trail which we were following. 

He soon emerged from the swamp and commenced the 
ascent of a hill where there were fewer obstructions to our 
progress, but prior to his reaching this point the author 
of these pages had fallen about six or seven rods to the 
rear of the leader, although George Ross had succeeded 
in keeping somewhat nearer. 

The captain's advance is now much more cautious ; he 
evidently expects to find the moose on this high ground. 
He takes a few steps forward, then halts, carefully surveys 
■ every object within the range of his vision, and has thus 
approached within about seventy-five or eighty yards of 
the summit of the hill which we are climbing. He has 
suddenly halted again, and at the same instant thrown out 
his right hand as a signal to his followers to be more cau- 
tious in their movements. George Ross has cautiously 
moved forward to his side ; but the gaze of our leader has 
remained steadily fixed on some object in the immediate 
front. He stands as immovable as the trunks of the o^reat 
forest-trees with which we are surrounded. Behold him! 



2T2 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. 

he is noiv whispering to his nephew ! I know he hxs sighted 
game. A moment late?' he beckoned to me to come foj^cuard ; 
repeats this signal tiuo or three times befoi^e I reached his 
side. In the inean time young Ross has raised his rifle and 
stands with it raised in readiness for instantaneous action. 
I reached the captain's side ; he seized my arm and drew 
me about ten feet to the left of George Ross ; had not yet 
spoken a word; but now whispered, "See that moose 
standing behind the underbrush? Fire at him!" Before 
I had time to raise my rifle George Ross had fired his first 
shot. The object which had been pointed out to me by the 
captain as a moose was almost completely hidden by the 
underbrush, only a small portion of the animal's flank 
being visible. The aim was taken at this part ; the shot 
was fired ; the animal now quickly changed his position 
and presented to me his rump. The captain was standing 
at my side ; the instant the first shot was fired he shoved 
another cartridge into my rifle ; I dropped quickly on my 
knee, took very deliberate aim, and forwarded my com- 
pliments once more. The animal at which this shot was 
fired now disappeared before I had sufficient time to reload 
my rifle. 

I now ran a few feet to the right of George Ross, who 
had remained stationary and continued to shoot rapidly. 
From this new position I caught sight of another moose, 
and fired another shot. Game was no longer visible from 
the spot where we were standing, and consequently we 
started up the hill at our best speed. A few seconds later 
our entire party was standing about the dead cow, on 
which George Ross had expended his fusillade. She had 




Fire at him !" 



214 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



never moved from the spot where she was standing when 
young Ross fired his first shot ; when unable to stand 
longer she fell on the opposite side of a log and was thus 
lost to his view. The captain glanced momentarily at the 
dead animal, raised his head to survey the surroundings, 
discovered the old bull which I had mortally wounded, and 
instantly exclaimed, "See the old monster!" This was 
the signal for a new start; our party rushed forward until 
we were within about twelve feet of this animal's head, 
which he now lowered, and at the same time uttered a low 
bellow that greatly resembled the angry threatenings of 
an enraged bull. The captain instantly caught hold of my 
arm, as if to keep me from danger, but I scarcely think 
this precaution was necessary, since I had already observed 
the angry warnings given by the old forest king. 

The captain having warned me of the danger, now 
leaped into the air, danced like a school-boy, seized me 
by the hand, offered his congratulations, while his face was 
wreathed in joyous smiles. 

The scenes enacted here reminded me of those which 
I had witnessed many years ago on the battle-fields during 
the war of the Rebellion, when the staid generals became 
boys once more after gaining important victories. Well do 
I still remember the many manifestations of joy which fol- 
lowed Sheridan's victory at Cedar Creek, Virginia. Gen- 
erals Sheridan, Custer, Torbert, and many other gallant 
officers in the Federal army were boys that day, when they 
learned the extent of their victory. It is hoped that the 
reader will pardon this wide digression from our subject 
and return with me to the summit of the hill in that grand 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



215 



forest, where these moose were slain, since a careful de- 
scription of the scenes enacted here will not fail to interest 
any sportsman. 

Already the shooting has been described which occurred 
on the slope of this hill while the moose were standing on 
its summit ; and there remains little to be said of the old 
cow, since life was extinct before we reached the spot 
where she fell. The bull, when discovered, was about 
four or five rods distant from the point where the cow 
had fallen. He was at this moment standing on his fore- 
feet, drao^orino- his hind limbs alonof on the o-round, 
endeavoring occasionally to get once more into the natural 
standing position, but all these efforts were fruitless. The 
poor animal had been paralyzed by the ball that had been 
fired at his rump, and passed upward, wounding the spinal 
cord in the lumbar region. The appearance of the old 
bull was not only pitiful but likewise savage at this mo- 
ment. He was so severely wounded that he could not 
escape from his enemies, or even make that defence which 
his gigantic proportions declared him fitted for under 
more favorable circumstances. The size of the animal 
may be inferred from the fact that he was found to meas- 
ure between the top of his shoulders and the bottom 
of his hoofs seventy-eight and one-half inches, while his 
symmetrical antlers showed a spread of nearly six feet. 
We viewed this noble beast while he was yet alive ; the 
hair on his whole body was standing erect, thus naturally 
increasing the apparent size of the animal and like- 
wise giving to him a more savage aspect. The long, 
erect hair, covering the top of the shoulders, increased the 



2i6 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



seeming height of the moose at least six or eight inches ; 
and the same remark is equally applicable, except in 
degree, to the other parts of the body. The wild boar, 
in his own forest garb, could not present a more frightful 
appearance than did the king of the Canadian wilderness 
at this moment. It is true that this bull could not present 
the same formidable tusks, but his great antlers and mag- 
nificent proportions more than compensated for all that 
w^as wanting. Notwithstanding the fact that he was so 
severely wounded as to be able to make but very little 
progress in his efforts to escape, still our party remained 
at a very respectful distance from his antlers. Our first 
attention having been given to the personal appearance of 
this animal, our succeeding thoughts were directed to the 
relief of his sufferings, and for this purpose I sent a ball 
through him a few inches behind his shoulders. This last 
shot produced no marked effect; therefore I quickly fired 
another shot a little behind the base of his skull, which frac- 
tured the upper portion of the vertebral column and like- 
wise wounded the medulla oblongata, which injury was 
followed by instantaneous death. The captain proceeded 
to disembowel the animals we had killed ; and while thus 
engaged discovered that another cow had been wounded 
by our shots, but had succeeded in getting away. His quick 
eye promptly detected three fresh beds in the newly-fallen 
snow, and likewise that the trail from two of them led to 
the dead animals, which were now lying only a few yards 
from the same, while the other led away from the scene of 
action. , The latter trail was well marked by the blood- 
stains left by the fleeing animal. It was instantly decided 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



217 



that we should follow up this trail. The blood-stains V 
were numerous about the bed from which the cow «■ 
had so recently risen, and the white snow was found ^41^^ 
to be copiously marked during the first half-mile ,/'>^*iv; 

of the trail, but alter this distance had beenv f, fr 

, , 1 • 1 ^^ '^ 

passed over these markings were less numer- . , ' ' ."X 

oub. It was confidendy thought by our guides, 

while we were making the first part of our 

journey along this trail, that we would soon 



find her lifeless body, but we continued 1' i-^,i. 
our search until warned by the near ap- 
proach of sunset that we ought 
to retrace our steps and make 



.^K^ 










The dead monarch. 



■2 1 8 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

the required preparation for the night. The pack, which 
the captain was carrying at the moment when he discovered 
the moose-track near Trout Lake, still remained where he 
had then dropped it. It was with some regrets that we 
started on this retrograde movement, since we still thought 
that another hour spent in the search would probably be re- 
warded by the capture of the wounded animal. Neverthe- 
less, we were greatly cheered by the results that had already 
been obtained, and we now retraced our steps with light 
hearts and speedy action. While thus retracing our steps 
we were naturally led to take a retrospective view of our 
doings during the day. In the morning we had started 
from our camp in joyful anticipation of successes just about 
to be realized. These pleasant anticipations were the natu- 
ral outgrowth of the discovery of several herds of moose 
in the vicinity of our camp on the previous day. We had 
set forth in the morning in full expectation that before noon 
we should be able to kill one or more moose ; at one 
o'clock we had returned to our camp sadly disappointed by 
a complete failure. In the afternoon, while wearily trudg- 
ing along without any seemingly reasonable expectation of 
discovering the prize we sought, we had fortunately struck 
the single trail, which being followed, soon brought us to 
the full realization of our most joyous anticipations. Such 
are the results obtained in our various pursuits in life by 
industrious and persevering labor, which in the end brings 
its reward, although the prize is frequently attained when 
least expected. Dame Nature is apparently an inveterate 
coquette, who must be industriously and perseveringly 
courted for a long time, when she will turn, at some un- 



OK, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



219 



expected moment, and most graciously receive our caresses, 
thus adding surprise to conquest. Before sunset we reached 
the scene of our recent shooting, and made the neces- 
sary preparation for the night. The pack was promptly 
brought to the spot, the lean-to erected, wood and balsam 
boughs gathered, after which the moose-meat — which con- 
stituted our entire meal — was cooked. 

We no longer had either bread, tea, or coffee. Thus 
the sportsman may be compelled to live, but what is the 
odds so long as you are happy ? This was certainly the 
most joyful night spent by us during the whole reconnois- 
sance. We had already accomplished more than we ex- 
pected when we left our camp near Sugar-Bush Lake ; had 
not only determined the whereabouts of the moose, but 
had actually slain two fine animals, a male and a female. 

The early part of this evening was spent in recounting 
the exploits of the day, and the balance of the night in 
refreshing slumber, — a blessing almost unknown to the 
drudging professional slaves of the city. We arose early 
the following morning, and while it was yet dark began 
our preparations for the return to the old camp. The 
dead moose were well covered with brush, in order that 
the wild animals might not deface them before the photog- 
rapher had completed his part of the work. The moose- 
meat was prepared, our breakfast eaten, and we were 
again off on our homeward tramp. The sun soon made 
its appearance ; the weather had moderated, and all now 
went merry as a marriage bell. The partridge were found 
to-day in great abundance and afforded us much sport. 
We were no longer troubled because of their excessive 



2 20 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

politeness, but they behaved in the most approved manner, 
and permitted us to knock off their heads with the rifle- 
balls without utterino: the slisfhtest murmur. We had 
bag-ored before noon a half-dozen of these fine crame-birds. 
During the first part of the tramp we saw only a single 
red deer and very few traces of moose, but when within 
about three miles of the old camp moose-tracks were once 
more found to be quite numerous ; however, we now spent 
no time in search of these animals. We reached our camp 
near Sugar-Bush Lake about one o'clock, October 26, and 
the captain promptly prepared our dinner. W^e had now 
reached our supplies ; found ourselves in possession of an 
abundance of flour, coffee, tea, sugar, etc. Mr. Milden- 
berger was absent from camp when we arrived, but re- 
turned about half-past three o'clock, and was delighted to 
find us in possession of the tent. He immediately inquired 
in regard to the success of the reconnoissance, and when 
informed on this subject was greatly pleased. He ex- 
pressed a desire to start promptly for the scene of the 
moose-hunt, in order that he might photograph these 
animals where they had fallen. It was now so late in the 
day that the other members of the party thought better 
to postpone this movement until a later period. The 
captain had evidently changed his mind in regard to 
moose-hunting during the last forty-eight hours, since he 
picked up the Winchester rifle very soon after our dinner 
and declared his intention to start off in search of the king 
of the forest. He was absent from our camp about three 
hours, when he returned and reported having seen one 
moose, at which he fired a shot but did not kill the animal. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 22 1 

The small lakes around us are completely frozen over, but 
the weather is rapidly moderating this afternoon. The 
clouds are gathering and there are other indications of a 
rain-storm. The following day found us confined to our 
tents by the pouring rain. This storm continued twenty- 
four hours and the snow entirely disappeared. The ad- 
vance movement commenced on the morning of the 28th 
of October. 

This chano-e of base is made with the intention of 
bringing our luggage into a more favorable position for 
leaving the forest after the closure of the lakes and rivers 
with ice. Another reason prompting this action at the 
present time is connected with the fact that in returning 
to Moose Hill, where we killed the moose, we must neces- 
sarily pass Camp Lake ; and therefore we have concluded 
to take with us all our luggage to this point, where we will 
erect our tent, store such articles as may not be required 
for the balance of our journey, chain the dogs, place within 
their easy reach so much food as may be required for their 
sustenance during our absence, and then proceed to the end 
of the contemplated journey, make the desired negatives, 
gather up the trophies and bring them back to our base, 
from which all future operations will be conducted. 

The rain-storm ceased during the preceding night, but 
the morning on which the movement began was cloudy. 
We crossed Sugar-Bush Lake this morning in our canoes, 
the ice having mostly disappeared during the storm, and 
arrived about noon on South Lake, where we prepared 
and ate our dinner. The movement was resumed and 
continued during the entire afternoon. We reached at a 



22 2 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

late hour a nameless lake, which we then christened Ross 
Lake, in honor of our chief guide. The night was spent 
under a lean-to, there now being four occupants instead 
of three, as was the case during the reconnoissance. With 
the appearance of daylight, on the morning of October 
29, we were again moving forward on the portage. We 
reached Camp Lake about twelve o'clock, put everything in 
order there, and proceeded onward to Moose Hill, where 
we arrived about three o'clock the same day. The pho- 
tographer proceeded immediately to make the desired 
negatives, while the guides were busied with the necessary 
preparation for the night, — skinning the moose, etc. 

It had been our intention to send a guide to the nearest 
settler, distant from this spot fourteen miles, in order that 
he might remove the meat and use it for food ; but our 
intention in this respect was frustrated by the discovery 
that it was already tainted by commencing decomposition. 

We remained overniMit at Moose Hill, and returned 
to Camp Lake the next day, where we arrived about four 
o'clock in the afternoon, having brought with us the 
trophies of the last hunt. We were welcomed to this 
camp by a canine chorus, in which the voices of our five 
dogs were joyously commingled, while, at the moment of 
our approach, they leaped gleefully about us, and added 
to the other manifestations of joy such caresses as they 
were allowed to bestow. 

In acknowledgment of this kindly reception they were 
promptly unchained and permitted the freedom of the 
camp. These dumb animals have now been our constant 
companions for several weeks in this grand forest; have 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 22^ 

shared with us in the excitement of the chase ; have aided 
us in securing subsistence ; while we have in return for 
these services most wilHngly shared with them our food. 
None can appreciate the companionship and assistance 
rendered by hunting-dogs better than the sportsmen who 
have cut loose from their base of supplies and sojourn for 
weeks in the forest of Canada. Even the circumstances 
which bound together the unfortunate " Rip Van Winkle" 
and his dog " Snyder" are not more favorable for this 
development. 

The day following our return to Camp Lake was 
stormy ; the falling rain kept us close to our tent, although 
we attempted a deer-hunt in the afternoon, which ended 
unsuccessfully, inasmuch as one of our dogs strayed away 
and was not recovered while we remained in this forest ; 
neither did we obtain a deer. The next morning, Novem- 
ber I, the captain announced that a deer was required for 
our larder, and requested George Ross and myself to 
proceed to Cedar Lake, distant from our camp less than 
one mile, taking with us a canoe, in order that we might 
watch on this body of water while he would endeavor to 
start our remaining deer-dog at such a point as to drive 
the game to us. The plan thus sketched was successfully 
carried out, and before noon we had a fine buck in our 
camp. Mr. Mildenberger, the photographer, has for sev- 
eral weeks assumed the responsibility of keeping the camp 
supplied with ruffed grouse, and it has never been found 
necessary to give him any aid in the performance of this 
work, although the other members of our party sometimes 
add to the supply by the skilful use of their rifles. Fish- 



2 24 ^^^ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

ing has already been abandoned several weeks. Duck- 
shooting is not very remunerative, owing to the scarcity 
of these fowls in this region, although the photographer's 
skill and industry have been, and still are, occasionally 
rewarded by a lucky shot. The killing of the red deer 
has been intentionally restricted, since we came into the 
wilderness, to the supply of our wants, although those 
killed while eneao^ed in the reconnoissance were somewhat 
in excess of this demand. The whole number of red deer 
killed by us now foot up fourteen, although we could easily 
have made it at least fifty. One important object of this 
expedition was the collection of specimens of natural his- 
tory for my cabinet, and I have succeeded very satisfac- 
torily in this direction. 

During the afternoon of November 2 the captain and 
myself returned to Moose Hill, while George Ross and 
Mr. Mildenberger remained in the camp on Camp Lake. 
Since our recent exciting moose-hunt I am no longer satis- 
fied with the humdrum life on Camp Lake ; deer-hunting 
is no longer a novel and exciting pastime for me. I am 
this day thirsting for new fields ; a grand moose- or bear- 
hunt; some excitement that will stimulate my heart to 
greater action ; something that will supply mental food, 
will add a zest to thought and an additional motive for 
increased physical activity. 

We reached Moose Hill about four o'clock in the after- 
noon and spent another night under a lean-to. The early 
part of the evening was passed in pleasant conversation 
and listening to the crackling of our hard-wood fire, which 
the captain says forebodes the coming of a snow-storm. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 225 

The captain's prediction was fulfilled. The ground .was 
covered this morning with a light, tracking snow, and still 
the storm continued. We started, immediately after break- 
fast, in search of moose. The storm soon ceased ; the 
clouds disappeared ; the sun shone out brightly, which 
caused the snow on the trees to melt rapidly. The 
search for moose was a failure, but we did succeed in 
finding an old bear's path, which led from a small brook 
to the carcass of a dead moose, which we concluded had 
evidently died of disease, inasmuch as we were unable to 
find any mark of injury that had been inflicted by the 
sportsman. This animal had probably been dead about 
six weeks, and was greatly emaciated at the time of his 
death. We discovered, by our examination, that one knee- 
joint had been extensively diseased. The animal had evi- 
dently suffered with severe suppurative arthritis, which was 
complicated by a necrosis of all the bones entering into this 
joint. The antlers were imperfectly developed and still 
covered with velvet. This carcass was found about six 
miles distant from those on Moose Hill. The indications 
favored the opinion that the bear had been feeding on 
this body several weeks, since the path was well worn and 
much of the carcass had already been consumed. 

Having now paid our respects to the path and the dead 
moose, we began a search for old bruin, who was soon 
started from a thicket near his food-supply ; and here we 
discovered his fresh tracks in the newly-fallen snow. We 
now started on this trail, which was easily followed, but 
soon halted and held a consultation in regard to the best 

method of procedure. We had left Camp Lake with rations 

15 



226 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

intended to supply our wants for only twenty-four hours. 
Should we now attempt to trail this bear to his den, or 
return to our camp and procure an additional supply of 
provisions and then establish a watch on his path ? The 
captain reminded me of the fact that if we even succeeded 
in trailing the bear to his den, we were not now provided 
with either axe or spade with which to bring him from his 
cover. The force of this argument was fully appreciated, 
and, furthermore, it was by no means certain that old bruin 
would be so obliging as to conduct us direct to his resi- 
dence. In many instances sportsmen have had reason to 
regret this hasty conclusion, — viz., that if they followed old 
bruin's trail he would lead them to his home ; but instead 
of doing this he has conducted them a score of miles away 
from it. It is true that the conditions for trailing are un- 
usually favorable this morning, owing to the presence of 
the fresh snow, which faithfully records every impression 
made in it. The real question is, What shall we do under 
these circumstances? This brings up for consideration 
the other side of the question. It should be remembered 
that the bear has been started from his cover in the 
thicket, and that we have been tramping about the dead 
moose and along bruin's path. Bruin may have sighted 
us, and it is very certain that he has already scented us. 
Therefore it may be very properly questioned whether or 
not he will return to his present food-supply. It is gener- 
ally believed that this animal is not easily frightened away 
from his food, or rather, that he will return time and again 
after he has been driven away from it, especially when 
the supply is not abundant. Furthermore, this inclina- 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 227 

tion to come back to his food seems to increase with every 
repetition which he makes for this purpose until the sup- 
ply is exhausted. It then seemed entirely reasonable for 
us to presume in this case that our game would return to 
his old haunts under the promptings of hunger; inasmuch 
as the food-supply in this region was extremely limited at 
this time. We, therefore, concluded it was better to make 
no further effort to follow bruin, but to return at an early 
day and establish a watch on his pathway leading from the 
brook to the dead moose. 

In accordance with this resolution we soon started on 
our return to Camp Lake, where we arrived before night- 
fall ; found Mr. Mildenberger and George Ross seated near 
the camp-fire in the full enjoyment of their freedom from 
toil, recalling their past sports and contemplating new 
pleasures to be gleaned from the chase in the near future. 
It was the intention of the captain and myself, when we 
reached here to-day, to provide ourselves with food enough 
to last four or five days, and such other articles as might 
be required during our intended sojourn in the vicinity of 
•old bruin's food-supply, and return to the spot to-morrow 
morning ; but in this instance it was not many hours be- 
fore we fully appreciated the fact that 

"The best laid schemes o' mice an' men 
' Gang aft a-gley, 

An' lea'e us nought but grief and pain 
For promised joy." 

It was observed during the early part of the evening 
that the moon shone with peculiar brightness ; but before 



2 28 ^^^ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE ; 

ten o'clock the atmosphere became slightly hazy, and we 
discovered that the satellite of the earth was encircled by 
a luminous halo, which has long been attributed to re- 
fraction and reflection of the rays of light by the pres- 
ence of minute snow-crystals in the upper strata of the 
air. The existence of this phenomenon, therefore, gave 
rise to no small degree of anxiety on my part ; and the 
feeling of despondency was momentarily increased by the 
commencement of a severe snow-storm before three 
o'clock the next morningr. This storm continued without 
abatement for thirty hours, and during this period there 
had fallen twenty inches of snow. The severity of the 
storm kept us confined to our camp throughout the entire 
day; and, consequently, the 4th of November, 1884, will 
long be remembered by us for other reasons than the 
election of a Democratic President of the United States. 
The question uppermost in my mind during this gloomy 
period was that involving the capture of the bear. The 
captain expressed the firm conviction that the bear would 
now disappear within his den, and remain there until the 
ides of March had made their appearance. This was very 
disagreeable information for the author, and he sought to 
controvert the opinion thus expressed by the citation of 
the doubts expressed on this point by Frank Forester 
and other authorities. It must, however, be admitted that 
this self-imposed task was found to be very difficult, inas- 
much as these authorities orenerallv acknowledore that old 
bruin usually dens up with the coming of the first heavy 
snow in autumn, and very rarely leaves his winter chamber 
until the approach of genial spring. The author will be 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



229 



subsequently pleased to inform the reader in regard to the 
behavior of this particular bear, although he may be as- 
sured that it was most unsatisfactory. 

This record has been brought down to the 5th of No- 
vember, which finds us nearly buried beneath the snow, 
while the cold wind comes to us this morninof from the 
northwest. The snow-storm continues, but is less severe 
than it was yesterday, although the weather is colder. The 
lakes are freezing rapidly, and it is with much difficulty 
that we can pass our canoes through the ice that has 
already formed, and it is very evident that navigation in 
this reofion will be closed within a few hours. 

The captain and the author took their departure from 
the buried tent on Camp Lake about half-past nine o'clock 
this morning. The sun had already made a few ineffectual 
attempts to send forth her cheering rays, but the rapidly- 
moving veil of clouds which covered its face has thus far 
defeated this benign effort. The wind is blowing; it causes 
the snow to fly in a very lively style from the evergreen- 
trees, on which some still reposes ; while in addition to 
this, there are numerous attempts to renew the snow- 
storm. The paddling of our canoe requires the united 
efforts of the captain and myself, since it is necessary that 
one should be almost constantly breaking the ice with the 
paddle while the other pushes the frail bark forward. 
Neither was our progress on land more rapid or less 
laborious, since we were compelled to wallow through the 
deep snow, which also served to cover fallen trees, bushes, 
etc., while these in turn frequently entrapped our feet and 
plunged us headlong into this cold bed. The author is 



230 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

rather reluctantly compelled to admit, at this late date, 
that he received much more than his share of these rouofh 
tumbles, inasmuch as the captain's superior knowledge of 
wood-craft, as well as his greater activity, enabled him to 
avoid many of these undesirable somersaults, although 
the most disagreeable feature connected with them was the 
continued sensation so closely resembling that produced 
by a cold-water bath. The snow on these occasions in- 
sinuated itself into my ears, around my neck and wrists, 
in which places it soon melted, and then as water was 
carried to every part of my body. 

The author, even at this moment, has a very distinct 
recollection that, during the greater part of that mem- 
orable day, his hands were so much benumbed with cold 
that it was found very difficult to handle either the paddle 
or rifle. Fortunately, however, for his present happiness, 
he was able even then to look forward to a more favorable 
state of existence, apparent in the near future, in which 
all these efforts would be rewarded by new sports and 
more favorable conditions. 

We reached our lean-to on Moose Hill about one 
o'clock in the afternoon, which we had left standing when 
we visited this spot. It was now almost buried beneath 
the snow, while its interior was nearly filled with the same 
material, which had been carried there by the driving wind. 
When we left here on the morning of the 3d of No- 
vember the captain had hung up a large piece of venison 
on a tree, in order that it might be beyond the reach of 
wolves, foxes, and other meat-eating animals ; he had also 
placed some bread beneath the cover of our lean-to, and. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 23 1 

therefore, it was not deemed necessary to bring with us 
any venison this morning when we left Camp Lake. Here 
we were again disappointed. During our absence the 
ravens had taken possession of the venison and caused 
it to disappear, notwithstanding the fact that there was an 
abundance of moose-meat in the immediate vicinity. We 
also relied on the bread which we had placed beneath our 
blankets, but only for our dinner; this was frozen, and, 
although we had brought flour with us, we could not tarry 
long enough here to bake bread. Our dinner, therefore, 
consisted of a cup of hot tea and some frozen cramper. 
We are not, however, discouraged, since we are in pos- 
session of our rifles and an abundance of ammunition. 
Consequently we can very soon supply meat. Having 
completed our frugal meal, we prompdy started for our 
destination. The immediate objective-point was Trout 
Lake, which was reached in due time, and here we entered 
once more our canoe. The paddling of this craft was even 
more difficult now than it was in the morning, since the ice 
was constantly becoming thicker. So great was the effort 
to propel the canoe that it caused the captain and myself 
to perspire freely. This was, however, a very pleasant 
change from walking in the woods while the cold water 
was coursine down our backs. There were still a few 
places in the lake where ducks could succeed in finding a 
small open space, and in one of these open spots we dis- 
covered a flock of these fowls. At the moment we dis- 
covered them I suppose we were fully six hundred yards 
away. We continued to paddle forward cautiously until 
we had shortened the range to about three hundred yards,, 



2^2 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

when I raised my rifle and forwarded my compliments. 
One fine bird in the flock promptly acknowledged the 
receipt of the same by the loss of her head and turning 
up her feet. This was our prompt commencement in 
providing flesh food for our larder, and the success of the 
shot gave us much satisfaction. We pulled away on our 
paddles, picked up our game, and then headed for that 
point on the shore where we Intended to disembark. 
Breaking the ice with the paddle was now becoming per- 
ceptibly more difficult every hour, and the lapse of a very 
brief period will render it an impossibility. The shore 
was finally reached, the canoe taken from the water, and, 
after being turned bottom upward, was placed on some 
brush, while the captain remarked, " Navigation is closed ; 
we shall have no further use for little birch-barks this 
year." The tramp was at this point again resumed, and 
we pushed forward as rapidly as was possible under the 
circumstances for our destination. The captain aimed to 
reach a little hut which he had constructed some years 
previously, while trapping in this part of the forest, before 
nightfall, in order to spend the night in it. 

The storm had now ceased ; the sun shone out, but it 
was nevertheless very cold. The game had commenced 
to move about, although during the storm it had remained 
under cover and was inactive. We saw tracks of the red 
deer and the moose. It was about five o'clock when we 
arrived at the trapper's cabin. W^e were once more dis- 
appointed : we had hoped for shelter and there was none. 
The roof of this cabin had fallen in, evidently some months 
previously, and consequently its interior was filled with 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



= 33 



snow, while the side walls were yet standing. There was 
no time to be lost. The necessary preparations must be 
made for the night. It was determined to remove the 
snow and debris from the cabin in order that we mieht 
occupy it. Both the captain and myself set to the per- 
formance of this work with much energy. It was now 
more pleasant to work than to remain idle. Work brought 
with it warmth and comfort, while inactivity was attended 
with a chattering of the teeth and physical suffering. 
These efforts did not cease until we had in some measure 
accomplished our object. The snow and rubbish had been 
partially removed and a new roof placed on the old walls 
of the cabin. The fire was built within this structure ; a 
hole in the roof nearly four feet square had been left for 
the escape of the smoke, besides which great openings 
remained in the side walls and roof, through which the 
starry heavens were visible. The evening meal consisted 
of an abundance of hot cramper and tea ; we had reserved 
the duck for our breakfast. The only blankets we had 
with us had been dug up from beneath the snow that had 
drifted under the lean-to on Moose Hill, and were, there- 
fore, wet. We spent much of the evening in attempting 
to dry them before our fire. These blankets were finally 
arranged within the cabin and we attempted to secure 
sleep, but the cold was so intense as to seriously interfere 
with this purpose, although the physical efforts made by 
us during the day strongly predisposed us in this direction. 
The captain was up and moving two hours before the dawn 
of day. He promptly, after rising, paid special attention 
to the fire ; the increased warmth diffused itself through 



234 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



the cabin, and thus afforded me a better opportunity to 
secure some refreshing sleep, which, it is hardly necessary 
for me to say, I willingly improved. It was not until day- 
break that I aroused myself and made ready for break- 
fast, which had already been elegantly prepared by my 
guide. 



; \. ' < { 




OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 235 



CHAPTER XII. 

The Bear which was not killed — Following the Moose — The Captain 
KILLED the Bull Moose — Packing out of the Woods — The Rest at 
Harkness's Shack — A Hard Tramp — Burk's Falls— A Deer-Hunt — An- 
other Trip to Canada in the Company of my Son, a Lad of Fifteen — 
Teaching the Boy to Shoot — Killed his First Deer— An Exciting 
Chase — The Old Doe makes her Escape. 

J^-sS^^?^^-^ reader left us busied in our miserable 
cabin with our morning meal, which having 
been completed, we started off for the old 
bear's food-supply. This point was distant 
from the cabin something less than a mile, 
and was, therefore, reached within half an 
hour after the start was made. We found 
that the dead moose had not been visited by old 
bruin since the heavy snow-fall ; although a flock 
of ravens had uncovered the carcass and were engaged in 
picking the flesh from his bones at the moment of our 
arrival. The prospect of meeting the game which we 
sought, it must be confessed, was now very discouraging ; 
but, nevertheless, I was determined to remain on the watch 
here for the present. The captain cut out some of the 
underbrush in order that I miorht be better enabled to 
discover the approach of the much-desired visitor, and 
then left me, saying, *' I will go off in search of other 
game." I remained on this lonely bear-watch about five 




236 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



hours, and then went to hunt the moose or deer. 
I followed the first trail that I struck. It 
had been made by a red deer ; was still 
fresh, but soon crossed another trail 
which had been left by three moose. 
This trail had evidently been made on 
the previous day while it was still 
snowing, and the tracks had been, 
in some measure, obscured from 




Food for the ravens left by bruin. 

this cause. I plodded along slowly on 
this trail about one hour, when I was 
greatly delighted to find it crossed by 
another which was fresh and made by 
the same number of animals. I imme- 
diately turned away from the old trail 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 237 

and started off on the fresh one. Within twenty minutes I 
discovered that the new trail had been made within half an 
hour, and was, therefore, encouraged to push forward, 
hoping to strike these animals before nightfall. The deep 
snow seriously impeded my progress ; but, nevertheless, I 
soon came on their warm beds, from which they had just 
risen, about three o'clock in the afternoon. I am not cer- 
tain whether they were frightened from their repose by my 
incautious approach, but think it more probable that they 
scented me because of an unfavorable wind. However, 
they succeeded in getting away without receiving my fire. 

Their retreat was made in good order and without any 
unseemly haste. I continued the pursuit an hour longer, 
until warned by the sinking sun that it was time to turn 
my face towards our hut, which was now distant from me 
at least eight miles. It was with a heavy heart that I re- 
traced my steps without knowing that our larder was yet 
supplied with meat. I was overtaken in this great forest 
by the shades of night while yet four or five miles from 
the camp, although the stars shone out brightly in the 
absence of the sunlight, and the moon soon came up to 
light me along my way. 

I halted by the side of the dead moose to ascertain if old 
bruin had been there for his meal, but my examination soon 
convinced me that he had fully determined to wait for more 
pleasant weather before he resumed eating. Therefore it 
only remained for me to hasten on to the hut, where I was 
fully assured that I would be heartily welcomed by the 
captain. 

I arrived at my destination in due time. The first 



238 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

object which attracted my attention was the cheerful blaze 
of the wood fire, after which my eyes fell on the bull 
moose's head lying just outside of the hut. It was now 
plain that the captain's hunt had been rewarded by killing 
a moose. After inspecting, by the moonlight and the light 
from the fire, this head and the antlers, I entered the hut, 
where I saw hanging on the wall an abundance of moose- 
meat. A single glance at the captain's face convinced me 
that he was happy. He greeted me pleasandy, and I 
promptly inquired of him in regard to the sport of the day. 
He briefly detailed his doings ; informed me that he had 
seen several moose after he parted from me in the morn- 
ing, but had killed only a single animal. He was inclined 
to think that he had not been as successful in killing game 
as was demanded by the circumstances of the case. I 
inquired in regard to the number of shots that he had fired 
during the day, and he replied, " I don't know ; the number 
is less than thirty." He furthermore added that he had 
shot eighteen times at the bull which he killed before the 
animal ceased to show signs of life. The reader may 
here find himself inclined to think that the captain should 
be classed among amateur sportsmen, but I will only say 
that it would be a very difficult task to find an expert that 
could kill as much game in these woods as my old guide. 
The repeating-rifle has brought about a change in the 
methods of killing game. The sportsman no longer re- 
fuses to fire a shot unless he is certain that his bullet will 
enter some vulnerable point in the animal, but shoots 
away, and trusts by this means that, should he fail to kill 
promptly, he will at least succeed in effecting a change in 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 239 

the position of the game that may enable him to make 
a more effective shot the next time ; prompted by this 
idea, the shooting goes on until the game has been killed 
or makes its escape. The captain shoots with great 
rapidity, and, consequently, frequently fires several shots 
after the mortal wound has been inflicted. In moose-, 
bear-, and deer-hunting he does not cease his fusillade so 
long as the animal shows any indications of even a linger- 
ing vitality. 

The second night that we spent in this miserable hut 
was passed somewhat more comfortably than the first. 
This was owing partially to the fact that during the second 
night the weather moderated considerably, and our blankets 
were in a better condition. Furthermore, the captain had 
spent some time in closino- the chinks between the lop's 
after his return from the moose-hunt, and had likewise 
carefully prepared the wood for the fire. I take from my 
diary the following dull and unromantic statement of facts : 

Friday, November 6, 1884. — The captain started from 
the hut this morning promptly after we had breakfasted 
on moose-meat, tea, and cramper, with the intention of 
following up the trail which I had abandoned at three 
o'clock on the previous day. He casually remarked when 
he left me that he miofht not be out more than three or 
four hours, as it seemed likely to rain. I commenced the 
preparation of the moose-head for transportation and 
mounting immediately after his departure, and was steadily 
engaged in the performance of this work from nine o'clock 
A.M. until four o'clock p.m. It was cloudy in the morning, 
but cleared before noon. The snow melted slightly during 



240 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

the day. About half-past four o'clock I started out to 
look after the bear ; found the moose-carcass ; saw a pine- 
marten in the act of leaving- it ; he climbed a tree ; I shot 
him and then returned to camp. The bear has not visited 
the dead moose since the heavy snow-storm that com- 
menced early Tuesday morning. The captain has not yet 
returned to camp, although it is now rapidly becoming 
dark. I spent an hour in procuring a supply of wood for 
our fire, which we are compelled to keep burning all 
night. I was doomed to spend the night in a miserable 
hut without a companion, since the captain did not return 
until about ten o'clock Saturday morning. He brought 
with him two companions to assist in transferring our 
luggage to Harkness's Clearings. 

Prior to our start he cooked some moose-meat, and we 
all partook of the hastily-prepared lunch, and then promptly 
commenced the homeward journey. The hunt was ended, 
but in leaving the forest we saw many fresh moose-tracks. 
The game was evidently moving about in a lively fashion 
this morning, but we were not inclined to spend any more 
time in the chase. 

The captain readily explained his absence from the 
camp on the preceding night by informing me that the 
trail which he had taken up soon after our separation on 
the previous morning was the same that I had followed 
so industriously the day that he had killed the bull moose 
near our present encampment. This trail finally brought 
him within a few miles of Harkness's cabin ; and, inasmuch 
as it was then about sunset, he concluded to take lodging 
with his old friend and return to me the next morning. 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



241 



He had found the animals which he was trailing rather 
shy, and consequently had only once during the day suc- 
ceeded in getting within gunshot of them. A single shot 
fired at long range was therefore the sum total of his day's 
work. 

His absence from my camp during the entire night had 
been attended with some inconvenience to myself, but with 
very little anxiety, since his knowledge of woodcraft and 
the use of firearms was a sufficient o-uarantee that he 
would turn up all right. I am free to confess, however, 
that the want of companionship was keenly felt during his 
absence. 

We had previously arranged in regard to our departure 
from the woods, and it was therefore entirely in harmony 
with my wishes to find myself, on the evening of the 7th 
of November, once more in the company of my photog- 
rapher and George Ross, the junior guide. The entire 
party, in accordance with the prearranged plans, have this 
day united at Mr. Harkness's cabin,''' who supplies us with 
very good meals, while we are comfortably lodged in a 
log cabin built near his own by Mr. Wood, who has since 
married the daughter of our host. 

Here the adventures of the last two months were again 
reviewed, and here, again, we joyfully recalled the sports 
and hardships in which we had so recently participated. 
We had crathered durino- our hunt a large number of 
trophies, and had likewise secured many valuable nega- 
tives. It was, therefore, with much satisfaction that we 
summed up the results of this expedition. 

* See tail-piece Chapter XI. 
16 



242 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



Sunday, November 8, was spent quietly by our party 
at Harkness's place, although it was found necessary to 
make some preparation for our departure. The day 
passed slowly ; seemed unusually long ; probably because 
we were now anxious to get home, to meet again with 
our families. Nearly two months have elapsed since either 
Mr. Mildenberger or myself have received any tidings 
from Jersey City, but we expect to find letters awaiting our 
arrival at Spence. We were up and had breakfast before 
daylight the next morning. The ox-team had been yoked 




A hard tramp — homeward bound. 

and were hitched to the old jumper before the first rays 
of the morning light were visible in the east. The gray 
dawn of the morning found us moving homeward through 
the stiffened snow, which was now about twelve inches 
deep ; traversing a broad swamp which had not yet been 
closed by the cold frosts of autumn ; travelling on a track- 
less and miserable wood-road where the oxen wallowed 
deep in the mud, while the pedestrians occasionally sank 
so deeply into these sloughs as to require the assistance 
of a companion to extricate them. The old jumper fared 



GR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 243 

no better. It frequently sank deeply into the mud and 
became entangled with the roots of trees and the adjacent 
rocks, thus bringing our team to a full halt, and commonly 
compelling them to remain in this position until levers had 
been procured, by the proper use of which we were al- 
ways enabled to elevate and disengage our jumper and 
finally proceed on our journey. The old jumper after 
a while became so weakened by these repeated strains as 
to show marked indications of a rapidly-approaching dis- 
solution. It, in fact, became necessary to strengthen our 
frail vehicle in all its parts before we reached the objective- 
point for which we started with the jumper this morning, al- 
though it was distant from Harkness's cabin only six miles. 
The morning hours were thus passed, and it was nearly 
two o'clock in the afternoon before we reached our first 
stopping-place. The jumper was now a complete wreck, 
and the oxen were wet with their perspiration and well 
bespattered with mud. We had previously arranged with 
Mr. Cunningham to provide for us a dinner and then take 
our luggage forward from this point to Burk's Falls with a 
horse-team. The dinner was awaiting our arrival ; the 
team was soon placed before the wagon and our luggage 
was transferred to it. The halt made here did not exceed 
forty-five minutes, when the tramp was again resumed. 
The circumstances now seemed more favorable to our 
progress. We had reached the Queen's Highway. The 
fall of snow had not been so deep here as in the woods, 
and had probably melted down rapidly ; therefore there 
were here visible a few bare spots of earth, although the 
road on which we are to travel has been recently con- 



244 ^^^ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

structed and is now a perfect bed of mud. I started off 
in company with the captain, taking a route across the 
fields and through the woods. The photographer and 
George Ross have preceded us. Cunningham's horses 
drag the heavily-loaded wagon slowly along the highway. 
The pedestrian is able to make better time than these 
horses under the circumstances, A brisk walk of three 
miles enabled the captain and myself to overtake the pho- 
tographer and the junior guide. It was during this walk, 
and prior to the overhauling of our companions, that we 
chanced to come upon a wood-chopper, who was engaged 
in levelling the forest preparatory to clearing it for cultiva- 
tion. He had previously been informed that we had left 
the woods and were now homeward bound, carrying with 
us a wagon-load of trophies. He, therefore, began to 
question the captain in regard to our unsurpassed success 
in hunting ; and while they were engaged in this conver- 
sation I espied a meat-bird sitting on the top branches of 
a tree about six rods distant from me. The sight of the 
bird prompted me to raise my rifle and fire a shot, which 
chanced to drop the bird to the ground. The wood- 
chopper quickly rushed away with the instincts of a re- 
triever, and soon returned with the dead bird in his hand, 
which he promptly delivered to me. He instantly re- 
marked, " I am not surprised that you have secured a 
wagon-load of trophies after seeing you drop that small 
bird at such a long distance." He was now evidently anx- 
ious to see me make another trial of my skill with the rifle, 
since he soon pointed out another bird of the same species 
within the range of my gun. I had made a good shot, and 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 245 

did not care to repeat the effort lest I might not add to my 
reputation as a marksman ; and, consequently, I now placed 
my gun in the captain's hands and requested him to try his 
skill. He fired two shots and killed a bird each time, 
although they were not within a short range. The wood- 
chopper was now apparently greatly impressed, and asked 
permission to examine the rifle, which he was promptly 
allowed to do. He seemed to admire the gun very much, 
and asked many questions about its cost, etc., and then 
complained that the backwoodsmen were so badly supplied 
with firearms. He finally remarked that if they possessed 
better guns they could then supply themselves with meat, — 
an article which was very seldom seen in these poor cabins. 
This wayside chat was now brought to an end, and 
we bade our new-made acquaintance "good-by," and once 
more resumed our tramp. Half an hour later we came up 
with the photographer and the junior guide. The captain 
now suggested that he would wait by the roadside until 
the wagon carrying the trophies should come up, in order 
to render the driver such assistance as he might require 
on the rough road. I now went forward in company with 
the photographer and George Ross. The road was in a 
horrible condition ; mud and water greatly impeded our 
progress, while in many places the clay held so tena- 
ciously to our feet that it was very fatiguing to move for- 
ward even at a slow pace, consequently we plodded slowly 
along. It was five o'clock when we reached Berryville. 
We were then five miles from Burk's Falls. At this point 
we entered a small country store and learned that Mr. 
Cleveland had been elected President of the United States 



246 T^^ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

durinof our absence. It had now been more than six weeks 
since we had seen a newspaper. The photographer and 
myself were highly pleased with the result of this election. 
Crackers and cheese were obtained and sufficed to appease 
our hunger, but our soreness was only increased by this 
halt. The shades of night had gathered about us before 
we renewed our journey. We were, therefore, compelled, 
when we left the store and started off again for our ob- 
jective-point, to walk in the middle of the road ; it was no 
longer possible to pick our way or choose our path, since 
the darkness was so great as to render invisible every 
object situated more than three feet from us. At every 
step taken in this mud we sank into it deeply, sometimes 
even to our knees. It was no longer possible to walk 
erect and pursue a straight course, but we reeled about 
like drunken men, so great was our fatigue. Horrible! 
horrible ! was this severe ordeal ! We could not halt for 
the night. No shelter could be had after we left Berry- 
ville until we reached Burk's Falls. Our situation was no 
longer enjoyable. We had undertaken to perform a very 
difficult task, too great a labor; but the plan could not be 
changed, and therefore we pushed forward. We finally 
arrived at our hotel about eicrht in the evening. We were 
foot-sore and weary. George Ross, a strong backwoods- 
man, was pale and trembled in every muscle ; my feet were 
badly blistered and greatly swollen. I could scarcely 
stand ; removed my shoes as quickly as possible after I 
entered the hotel. Sent to the store and purchased a pair 
of "arctics, which I promptly donned after taking a foot- 
bath. The junior guide was thoroughly exhausted and 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 247 

beean to vomit soon after our arrival. Should the reader 
venture to think that our condition was in some measure 
dependent on the use of alcoholic stimulants, allow me to 
inform him that no man in our party has tasted a drop of 
strong drink during the last six weeks. Nothing has been, 
said in regard to the condition of our photographer at the 
time of our arrival. I think it must be admitted that he 
had passed through this trying ordeal somewhat more 
fortunately than either George Ross or myself, but he 
frankly admitted that he had never been so greatly 
fatigued prior to this tramp. We had walked to-day 
twenty miles, but could have made fifty with more ease 
had the condition of the roads been favorable to such an 
effort. I retired to my room, which was well warmed, at 
an early hour ; but notwithstanding the precaution taken 
I was seized with a chill, which lasted about half an hour. 
The wagon with our trophies did not arrive until eleven 
o'clock that ni^ht. Darkness and the bad condition of 
the roads had been the cause of the delay. The team was 
a very strong one and in a very good condition for heavy 
work. 

Having passed the night tolerably well, our party met 
at the breakfast-table the following morning about nine 
o'clock somewhat refreshed. A party of deer-hunters 
living in this village had proposed a deer-hunt to the 
captain and wished us to join them in this sport. The 
hunt was to take place near the village, and we were in- 
formed that the run-ways could be reached by a buck-board 
wagon. It was impossible for us to leave here until the 
following morning, since " Ponta" had wearied during the 



248 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

long tramp of the previous day and found a new home 
at Berryville. It had already been settled that George 
Ross should procure a horse and saddle and return for the 
purpose of bringing up the straggler. Therefore, after 
considerable consideration of this subject, I rather reluc- 
tantly consented to become one of the hunting-party. A 
buck-board wagon was procured for the use of a circuit 
judge — who was one of the party — and myself, and we 
were duly driven to a run-way which it had been decided 
that we were to watch. 

The occurrences of the morning were very similar to 
those which have been already so frequently described. 
The music made by the hounds was very exciting, and the 
deer was killed by the captain. We returned to the village 
after the single race and spent the balance of the day in 
the hotel. 

Thus ended the grandest hunt in which it has ever been 
my good fortune to participate. It is true that we endured 
many hardships, but we were more than amply compensated 
for all these by the pleasures of the chase. We returned to 
our professional duties reinvigorated and better prepared 
for the discharge of those efforts demanded of us, both 
mental and physical. 

The question may be raised by the reader if it were 
not possible to have avoided many of the severe tramps 
and likewise some of the exposure. This inquiry must be 
answered in the affirmative, since it must be self-evident 
to every reader that the amount of tramping done in any 
particular case will depend largely on the inclination of 
the sportsman. In deer-hunting it is quite possible to 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



249 



avoid any degree of exercise which will be fatiguing, es- 
pecially when hounds are employed. The sportsman may 
have his tent erected near the point where the hunt is to 
take place, and thus avoid the necessity of any tramping. 
He can proceed in his canoe to any point of the lake which ' 
it is deemed advisable to watch, or should he elect to 
watch a run-way, the location of his tent may be such that 
the walk would not be fatiguing. Lake-hunting is commonly 
practised in this region, and there are probably ninety-nine 
deer killed in the water where there is one killed on the 
run-ways when hounds are employed. 

In still-hunting the sportsman may determine for him- 
self the amount of walking which he will do ; but the 
results of the hunt will depend very largely upon the 
energy and industry of the sportsman, especially if the 
other factors of success are equal. The red deer are very 
abundant throughout this entire region, and may be suc- 
cessfully hunted in close proximity to the settlers' cabins. 
The same is true of the ruffed grouse. There is likewise 
very excellent bass- and pickerel-fishing in nearly all the 
lakes and rivers in the sparsely-settled districts, but those 
who desire really good trout-fishing, except during the 
early part of the month of June, must go back into the 
forests. A single day's journey from a railroad depot 
will, however, suffice to bring the fisherman into a region 
where his efforts, even in autumn, will be rewarded by the 
capture of the speckled beauties. This region of country 
in which I have hunted may be very readily reached by 
the Northern Railroad from Toronto, Canada ; while the 
sportsman may very well procure the necessary supply of 



250 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



provisions from any of the small villages on this line. Sup- 
plies may be had of excellent quality and in any desired 
quantity at Burk's Falls. Hotel accommodation is, like- 
wise, abundant and of such a character as to satisfy most 
sportsmen. I think it is highly probable that some sports- 
men may prefer to remain in a hotel and do their shooting 
in the immediate neighborhood of the same, although much 
better results may be obtained by tenting on the field 
selected for the sport. The author likewise believes that 
the sportsman will add greatly to his enjoyment by the 
latter course of procedure, which certainly possesses for 
most men a charm independent of the increased facilides 
it affords for procuring game. 

I recently spent a few days very pleasantly in the 
vicinity of Maganetawan in deer-hunting and partridge- 
shooting, in company with my son, a youth of fifteen years^ 
and inasmuch as it illustrates the possibility of obtaining 
very good sport without any great fatigue or exertion, I 
am disposed to give a brief description of this trip, which 
I think may not be devoid of interest. We started from 
our home in Jersey City, New Jersey, August 31, 1886. 
An evening train on the New York, Lake Erie and 
Western Railroad carried us forwards towards our desti- 
nation. The next morning found us at Niagara Falls, 
where we spent the most of the day in sight-seeing, but 
we reached Toronto at a late hour of the same evening. 
The following morning we were moving forward by the 
Northern Railroad towards Muskoka. In due time we 
arrived at the village of Maganetawan, where we were 
very cordially received by the fat and genial proprietor of 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 25 1 

a hotel which bears the same name as the village in which 
it is located. He had been informed, prior to our arrival, 
by the captain that we were en route for the woods, and 
might be expected in this village at the date on which we 
reached it, and consequently we were not unexjjected 
guests. In accordance with a previous arrangement made 
with Captain Ross, he put in an appearance at our hotel 
the next morning at an early hour. He had brought with 
him a wagon to transport us and our baggage to the lake 
of *' Many Islands," where it had already been determined 
the hunt should take place. 

We reached our destination Saturday, September 5, at 
about half-past three o'clock. This lake is situated about 
eleven miles from the village of Maganetawan, and our 
baggage was delivered by the wagon within half a mile of 
its shore. Inasmuch as the latter portion of the road we 
had traversed had been found to be rather rough, we had 
therefore chosen to walk about three miles. The scene 
presented by this lake on our arrival was highly pleasing. 
There lay spread out before us a magnificent sheet of pure 
water stirred by a slight breeze, which produced little rip- 
ples on its surface, that sparkled with the brilliance of 
diamonds surrounded with bright silver in the clear sun- 
light of a cloudless autumn day. The lake of " Many 
Islands" is very similar to many others in this "Lake Land 
of Canada." It is about three miles in length and one 
mile in width, while its numerous islands prevent us from 
seeing but a small portion of it from any point which may 
be selected on its shore. 

At the time of our visit it was completely surrounded 



252 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



by a virgin forest of hard wood, interspersed with giant 
pines ; but it was then expected that the lumbermen would 
soon commence their work of devastation, which will not 
end until the whole neighborhood has been robbed of the 
pine timber. 

The sun was shining brightly when we reached the 
shore of this lake, and the weather was oppressively warm. 
We, therefore, reclined on the moss which grew in great 
abundance, even quite near the water's edge, until suffi- 
ciently rested to begin the labor required to erect our tent 
and perform such other duties about the camp as seemed 
to be necessary for our comfort. Myself and son are ac- 
companied by the captain and two other guides, conse- 
quently the preparation of the camp is quickly effected. 
We are now ready to start out for some fishing. My son 
and myself were soon seated in a large, birch-bark canoe, 
and the captain was working the paddle. We have each 
thrown a trolling-line into the water, and the bass have 
promptly responded to our glittering invitations. We 
had soon captured a fine lot of these delicious fish, and 
among them there was one large one, supposed to weigh 
fully four pounds. 

We returned to our camp in time to have some fish 
prepared for our evening meal. The sun disappeared 
below the western horizon soon after we had finished our 
supper, and the evening breeze seemed to possess just 
those qualities best adapted to make life agreeable ; was 
neither too warm nor too cool. This was my son's first 
night passed under canvas, and he was perfectly charmed 
with the new condition of things. He slept soundly and 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 253 

arose early the following morning greatly refreshed, while 
mental visions of delight rapidly chased each other through 
his brain. He was now very anxious and almost impa- 
tient to engage in a deer-hunt. It was, therefore, with 
marked joy that he heard the captain declare that he would 
send the hounds into the woods immediately after break- 
fast. The morning was warm, — almost sultry, — and the 
trees were covered with a heavy green foliage, but as 
soon as the breakfast had been eaten the captain directed 
"Tom," one of the guides, to start with the hounds into 
the woods and send us a deer. " Tom" obeyed this order 
with alacrity, while the captain and "Jim" cleared away the 
remnants of the morning repast and put in order the 
" camp-kit." 

They spent about twenty minutes in this labor, and the 
captain then announced his readiness for us to enter the 
canoes. Both Henry and myself entered his canoe, which 
he immediately shoved into the lake, and then paddled us 
off about one mile to an island situated near the head of 
this body of water. "Jim" had followed us in a canoe. 
Both canoes were drawn upon this island and we promptly 
stepped on the dry land. The captain now carefully sur- 
veyed the surroundings for the purpose of selecting the 
most advantageous places for the watch. Having satisfied 
himself in regard to this matter, he then said to me, " Doc- 
tor, you will go with me in my canoe and your son will 
watch with 'Jim.' " 

I looked at Henry and instandy discovered that he was 
disappointed. I had previously informed him that the 
captain was the most competent guide, and that I should 



254 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



therefore leave him in his charge, in order that he might 
have an opportunity to kill the game. The reader will 
now readily comprehend the cause of the lad's disappoint- 
ment. I now informed the captain of my desire in this 
matter, and he promptly consented to this arrangement, 
which placed Henry in his charge. The boy's face in- 
stantly lighted up and he was again happy. The captain 
now gave "Jim" the necessary instructions, and we started 
for the point which had been designated for our watch. 
The sun was shining brightly, and there was only a slight 
breeze at this time on the lake. 

Having reached our destination, the canoe was now 
drawn on the land, and I seated myself beneath the shade 
of a friendly bush, while " Jim" remained standing in order 
to have a better view of the surroundinors. About half 
an hour was thus spent, when I was suddenly startled by 
a heavy splash in the water and an exclamation from my 
guide, who, in a loud whisper, announced the presence of 
a buck in the water. I promptly arose to my feet and dis- 
covered, with the guide's assistance, our game swimming 
out towards the centre of the lake. This charming vision 
was only momentary, since the animal promptly disap- 
peared behind one of the many islands that grace the lake. 
Our canoe was quickly pushed into the lake and quiedy 
entered. We then pulled away with all our might, al- 
though we were now confident that the captain had already 
discovered the prize and was moving for its capture. A 
few moments later, having then rounded the island, which 
momentarily hid from our vision the object we sought, we 
again saw the deer, which was now closely pursued by the 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 255 

captain's canoe, while my son was seated in its bow with 
his gun already raised in readiness for the shot. The 
captain was giving him the necessary instruction. "Jim" 
was paddling with all his might, but we were, now about 
five hundred yards behind the captain, while he was within 
thirty yards of the buck. The command was given by the 
captain in the following language : " Take aim at the back 
of the head, — fire!" A little puff of blue smoke was seen 
to shoot forth from the muzzle of the lad's gun ; the ani- 
mal's heavy antlers disappeared beneath the waters of the 
lake ; the boy had killed his first deer and was as happy 
as a general who had just won his first battle. This buck's 
head was carefully prepared for mounting in our camp, 
and is now one of the boy's trophies, which he has pre- 
served at his home and proudly exhibits to his youthful 
companions. 

We remained encamped on this beautiful sheet of water 
about ten days, and during this period killed eight deer, 
many ruffed grouse, and caught as many fish as we de- 
sired for our table. The tent was, soon after our arrival, 
removed from the lake-shore — where it was at first erected 
— to one of the many islands in this body of water, where 
it remained until the day of our departure. The boy was 
made, in accordance with the desire which the author had 
expressed soon after our arrival, the hero of the hunt; 
and during our brief stay killed four deer and more than 
one-half the whole number of partridges. The hunt was 
practically the boy's own sport, and afforded him the high- 
est pleasure consistent with our surroundings. It is no 
part of my intention, at the present time, to inflict on 



256 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



the reader a full report of the daily occurrences during 
our stay in this region, but I shall describe some of the 
more exciting events which transpired ; and in addition to 
this, also detail some of the more interesting movements 
of the game which we were hunting. 

Having sent the hounds into the woods one cloudy 
morning in company with "Jim," who on this day acted as 
our starter, I left the camp on the island in the company 
of the faithful " Tom," who paddled the birch-bark for me, 
while my son was, as usual, in the canoe with the captain. 
We expected the deer this morning would take to the water 
about one mile from our camp, and consequently the 
canoes were directed towards this point. I had thrown a 
troll into the water soon after leaving camp, in order to 
take some fish before the deer should put in an ap- 
pearance. We listened attentively for the music of the 
hounds, but not a single note had been heard, when a 
slight crackling sound, made in the woods near the shore 
of the lake, attracted my attention. "Tom" had, a mo- 
ment previously, raised his paddle from the water, and I 
had already commenced to reel in the long line in order 
that I might be better prepared for the arrival of the ex- 
pected game. 

The sounds which I have previously mentioned had not 
been heard by " Tom," and, in fact, were so indistinctly per- 
ceptible to my ear as to call forth no comment from me, 
although my eye was instinctively fixed on that portion of 
the shore nearest to the point where they had seemed to 
originate. Scarcely had one minute elapsed since I had 
heard the crackling sounds in the woods before a large 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



257 



doe made her appearance on the shore at the point which 
I was then watchino^. She did not break cover at a single 
bound, as is sometimes the case with the members of her 
family, but trotted slowly into the water, and showed, at 
this moment, no indications of fear or even anxiety. She 
had entered the lake directly in front of our canoe, al- 
though possibly about six hundred yards distant from us. 
The course at first taken in the water was directly towards 
us, and we were very careful to make no movement which 
might attract her attention. She swam out into the lake 
about eighty yards, apparently entirely uninfluenced by 
any sense of fear or danger ; but now began to sniff the 
air, move her ears and then turn her head in variousfdirec- 
tions, evidently endeavoring to sight the object which she 
had already scented. During this period she made very 
slow progress in swimming, although still coming towards 
us, but at a very slow rate of speed ; and finally, when 
about one hundred yards from the shore, she turned up 
the lake and continued to swim at about the same dis- 
tance from the land. She had now headed directly towards 
the captain's canoe, which was probably two thousand yards 
distant from her. She still continued to turn her head 
occasionally towards our canoe, — evidently expecting that 
an enemy would assail her from that direction. Her ner- 
vous movements were still expressive of anxiety. We 
had hoped that she would leave the shore, and thus afford 
us an opportunity to bring our canoe between her and the 
land; but her movements were endrely unfavorable for the 
accomplishment of this object. 

The captain had carefully watched her from the moment 

17 



25S THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

when he had first discovered her in the lake, which was 
only a few moments after she broke cover. He, too, 
remained inactive for a while, for the same reasons that 
had prompted us to this course, particularly because the 
animal was so near to the shore that she could easily put 
herself, with little loss of time, on dry land. He finally 
tired of this inactivity and started energetically forward in 
the chase. Both "Tom" and myself had been carefully 
watching him, and consequently recognized the first stroke 
which he made with his paddle. The scene was now very 
interesting and highly picturesque ; the old doe was likely 
to be surprised ; she was still looking for an enemy to 
appear from the lower part of the lake, having already 
scented us, while the captain was coming down on her 
from the head of the same waters. Behold the enemy ! 
There they come. The boy sits motionless in the bow of 
the canoe ; his right hand rests gently on the breech of his 
gun; the captain is near the stern of the frail bark; his 
strong arms work vigorously and noiselessly the paddle. 
The little vessel moves rapidly forward in a straight line, 
but its movements are noiseless although the water fairly 
boils about its bow and stern. They are now within five 
hundred yards of the prize ; the deer is still swimming 
towards them ; at this moment " Tom" placed his paddle 
in the water and entered the race. A few minutes later 
she discovered the captain's canoe bearing down upon her, 
and promptly turned around in the water and commenced 
a desperate effort to reach the run-way by which she en- 
tered the lake. Behold her frantic efforts ! She is mad- 
dened by the appearance of an unexpected enemy ; she 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



259 



struggles desperately in the water ; raises herself high 
into the air and then settles down to her grandest efforts 
in swimming. Both canoes are rapidly closing in upon 
her ; she has discovered the danger of her situation. The 
captain's canoe is now within a hundred yards of the 
frightened deer; but "Tom" is still more than four hun- 
dred yards away. The boy has raised his gun ; is taking 
aim. Puff oroes the smoke from the muzzle of his fowline- 
piece ; the charge of buckshot passed a little above her 
head and she is unharmed. The boy is now making a 
desperate effort to remove the empty shell from his single- 
barrel breech-loading gun. The captain has brought the 
canoe within sixty yards of the old doe. Behold them ! 
He has dropped the paddle, taken the gun from the boy's 
hand, and is now endeavoring to remove the empty shell, 
which he accomplished after the loss of a few seconds of 
valuable time. The gun is then handed back to the boy, 
after having been reloaded, but the distance between the 
floating canoe and the rapidly-swimming deer has increased 
during this interval. "Tom," on the contrary, has suc- 
ceeded in brineinof his canoe within about two hundred 
yards of the game ; but the deer is now almost ready to 
leap on the shore. I have seized my repeating Winches- 
ter rifle and will try a shot at the escaping animal. Two 
shots are fired in rapid succession : one before she had 
raised from the water and the other just as she leaped on 
the dry land, but she has not halted at my command. The 
captain failed to bring the deer within the range of the 
boy's gun after it was reloaded. Thus ended a very ex- 
citing; chase. 



26o 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 



CHAPTER XIII. 

The Continuance of the Dker-Hunt — An Exciting Chase — Brilliant Man- 

CEUVRING OF AN OlD BuCK — BREAKING CaMP ON THE ISLAND — A PaR- 
TRIDGE-HuNT by THE ROADSIDE — AN ExCITING RACE BETWEEN " JIM" AND 

THE Old Cocker Spaniel — Our Return to Maganetawan — The Trip 
FROM Maganetawan to Toronto. 




HE details of the morning hunt have al- 
ready been given, but there still remains 
to be described a more exciting chase, 
which occurred in the afternoon of the 
same day. The morning of this day was 
cloudy, but the evening was cool and 
cloudless, while the sun shone out brightly. 
It was therefore determined soon after the mid-day meal 
that "Jim" should go again into the woods with the hounds 
and try to send us a deer. In accordance with this deter- 
mination he was promptly moving away from our camp 
with the hounds in the canoe. 

The other canoes followed him after a delay of about 
half an hour. The captain was again in the company of 
my son, while I was attended by " Tom," as in the morn- 
ing. We expected the deer would come to the lake by 
the same run-way as was chosen by the old doe in the 
morning. The captain, however, stationed "Tom's" canoe 
about one mile from the point where the doe entered the 
water. He, however, selected an advantageous position 
for himself and the lad, which was much nearer to this 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 261 

point. The afternoon dragged slowly away without the 
occurrence of any exciting event until after four o'clock. 
The waters of the lake were motionless ; scarcely moved 
by a single ripple. The watch for the appearance of the 
deer was constant and faithful, and not limited to the par- 
ticular point at which he was expected to make his appear- 
ance. We were somewhat discouraged by the non-arrival 
of the expected visitor, when we discovered that the cap- 
tain had sighted game and was already in motion. Our 
canoe was quickly brought into motion and headed in the 
direction indicated by the captain's movements, although 
he is more than half a mile away from us. We are 
thoroughly satisfied that the deer is visible to him, since 
he never paddles with so much energy and skill except 
when actually engaged in the chase. We are rapidly ap- 
proaching each other, and now catch our first glimpse of 
the deer's head, which, in the distance, appeared not larger 
than a small duck resting on the surface of the water. 
The captain is much nearer to the game than we are at 
this moment. " Tom" is working the paddle as though 
his life depended on his individual exertion. The cap- 
tain's canoe shoots through the water like a thinof of life. 
It is a grand sight, worthy the brush of an artist. On- 
ward, still onward, over the silvery waters of the lake 
rushed our canoes towards the living goal which was yet 
unconscious of the danger. It was a long and hard pull 
for those who held the paddles, but we gained rapidly on 
the leisurely-swimming deer. The captain had succeeded 
in bringing his canoe within a few hundred yards of the 
animal before he was discovered, but unfortunately she 



262 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

was at this moment only a short distance from the shore. 
Instantly her head was turned towards the land, and here 
followed the desperate efforts to make her escape, but it 
is an old story and I shall not now repeat it. The captain 
redoubled his efforts with the paddle, and "Tom" followed 
his example. The deer having reached a spot where she 
was not more than forty yards from the dry land, the 
captain quickly dropped the paddle and seized a Win- 
chester repeating-rifle, which was lying in the bottom of 
his canoe, and began a lively fusillade, which was directed 
at the poor animal's head, although he was at this moment 
about three hundred yards from the object which he sought 
to pierce with the leaden bullet. "Tom" now brought our 
canoe within a range of about five hundred yards, when I 
raised my rifle and joined in the music. " Tom" continued 
to push forward his little bark without the slightest in- 
terruption, while the captain was floating slowly forward. 
Bang ! bang ! bang ! go the rifles ; the balls are skipping 
over the water in close proximity to the exposed head, 
while the animal is making the most frantic efforts to 
escape. She is now almost ready to leap from the water, 
but the captain is waiting for the favorable moment to send 
a bullet into her body. She has risen, when the crack of 
the captain's rifle is heard, and she falls back into the water 
ao^ain. Is she dead? No. In another instant she is aorain 
on her feet, and after taking three bounds she is covered 
by the friendly darkness of the forest. We now pushed 
forward to the spot where she had left the lake. Here we 
beheld her blood mingling with the water, and this confirmed 
the opinion which we had previously formed, that she had 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 263 

been wounded. "Jim" was now seen to be approaching 
us with the hounds in his canoe. We beckoned to him ta 
hurry forward with the dogs. He could not hear us and did 
not understand our signals. "Tom" pointed his canoe to- 
wards that in which " Jim" was seated and then paddled away 
with all his might. "Jim" now began to comprehend what 
was wanted at this moment. He therefore redoubled the 
speed of his vessel. We were soon enabled by loud shout- 
ing to make him understand that we had wounded the 
deer and desired to put the hounds on her trail. He was 
deeply interested, and promptly entered heartily into the 
work. The hounds were brought to the spot where the 
deer left the water. They bounded excitedly from the 
canoe and entered the forest with rineine voices. I had 
never, previously, heard so much noise made in the same 
limited time by two dogs. I remarked to the captain, 
" Your dogs are not merely giving tongue, but they are 
fairly yelling ;" and he replied, " They are almost mad- 
dened by the smell of blood." Their entrance into the 
forest was followed within a few minutes by a loud crack- 
ling in the brush, which convinced us that they were al- 
ready close upon the wounded animal. A few seconds 
later the poor deer rushed frantically from the woods and 
leaped into the lake, but she still apparently remembered 
that on the water there was yet a merciless enemy, since 
she contented herself by swimming a narrow bay and then 
again disappeared in the dark woods. 

She had thus cunningly attempted to throw the hounds 
off her scent, while at the same time she most adroitly 
avoided a contact with us. Darkness was already gather- 



\ 



264 



THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE. 



ing about us, but the end had not yet been reached. The 
passage of the deer across this bay had been observed by 
our party, but we were too far away to offer any protest 
to this procedure. A few seconds later the hounds made 
their appearance on the shore where she had entered the 
bay. One immediately entered the water and swam across, 
apparently in the wake left behind the poor fugitive, while 
the other ran the shore. During this last performance the 
hounds gave no music, and their silence was almost pain- 
ful to us ; but the moment they started off on the trail 
which she had made when she left the bay, they again 
yelled with all their might. 

The captain at this moment promptly turned the bow 
of his canoe towards the head of the lake, saying, " She 
must take to the water again ; she cannot live in the 
woods." The other canoes followed slowly, while we lis- 
tened attentively to the sounds uttered by the hounds. 
Thus we were convinced that the poor deer was painfully 
conscious of her own weakness, and therefore kept close 
to the lake that she might in an emergency leap into the 
water and thus escape from the hounds. The objective- 
point for which the captain had started was situated more 
than a mile from the bay which the wounded deer had 
crossed. The hounds followed her closely to this portion 
of the lake, and then their voices were suddenly silenced. 
The question was then quickly asked by one of our party, 
"What has happened?" and the response was immediately 
given by both the other members, " The deer has taken to 
the water and is aeain swimmincf." 

We then listened attentively for another report in this 




"We found them standing on the dry ground, while the doe was lying at the 
feet and the hounds were fawning about them." 



266 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

case, which came to us after the lapse of about fifteen 
minutes. It was made by the firing of two shots from the 
fowhng-piece. "Jim" now quickly remarked, "The boy 
has now taken a hand in this sport ; the deer is dead, and 
that report was not made by the rifle." We pulled away 
for the upper part of the lake, which was reached in due 
time, and here we found the captain, who had verified the 
correctness of his prediction. The deer had been com- 
pelled by the hounds to take to the water again, and was 
killed by the boy while swimming. ' The same thing had 
happened here as in the lower portion of the lake. One 
of the hounds had followed her into the water, while the 
other remained behind on the shore. The first shot fired 
by the lad missed her head in the partial darkness of the 
evening, but the second had killed her. Before we reached 
the captain and the boy they had towed her ashore, and 
we found them standing on the dry ground, while the doe 
was lying at their feet and the hounds were fawning about 
them. 

We discovered at this time that the animal had been 
struck by the rifle-ball in the right thigh, making a com- 
pound fracture of the femur, consequently she had been 
compelled to make the last run on three legs. The whole 
number of shots fired at her were probabl)^ about twenty. 
The chase was one of the most excitinor that I have ever 
participated in, but it should not be forgotten that in the 
first encounter all the shots were fired from a long range. 

Daylight having disappeared, we were consequently 
prompted to return to our camp. The deer was, therefore, 
placed in one of our canoes, and the hounds invited to 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 267 

share with us a place In our little barks, and we were off 
to our tents. 

The reader's attention has been directed to the wonder- 
ful manifestation of intelligence or instinct on the part of 
this doe, which had just been killed, when she, in the one 
instance, took to the water in order to throw the hounds 
off her trail, and then very promptly returned to the woods 













The dead doe 



for the purpose of avoiding a second encounter with an 
enemy more dreadful than the dogs. Later on we find her 
keeping close to the lake-shore, In order that she might be 
thus enabled to baffle the hounds once more if the neces- 
sity should arise. 

A few days after the occurrences that we have just re- 
corded an opportunity was again given us to study some 
very fine manoeuvring on the part of an old buck, in order 
to throw the keen-scented hounds off his trail. This game 
was so well played that it cannot fail to Interest those who 
read It. The hounds had been taken into the woods on 
this occasion by the faithful " Tom," and nearly two hours 
had elapsed before we heard their baying, which was as 
yet rather indistinct. 



268 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

Knowing full well that the game was now in motion, 
"Jim" promptly passed from the shore on which he was 
standing to his canoe, which was at this moment resting 
lightly on the water near him. The example of my guide 
was quickly followed by me, and the little bark was promptly 
brought out into the lake, which gave us a broader view 
of our surroundings. The baying of the hounds was 
occasionally lost to us, but after the lapse of a longer or 
shorter interval these sounds were agfain audible. It was 
very evident to our minds that the deer, when first started 
by the hounds, had not moved off in a direct line for the 
water, but had circled about in the woods ; therefore "Jim" 
concluded, thus early in the chase, that our hounds were 
running- a stronor buck. 

The opinion here expressed is based on observation, 
and is supposed to have its origin in the greater strength 
and superior confidence possessed by these males, since 
the females and fawns, when started by hounds, run imme- 
diately to the water; in which, by swimming, they can 
easily distance their tormentors, — where, as a matter of 
fact, they rarely attempt to follow them. 

Having gained a position on the lake which enabled us 
to examine the various objects along the shore for a con- 
siderable distance, we soon discovered a large buck, which 
was walking in the water at this time, and occasionally 
stopping to listen to the hounds. These animals were 
now rapidly approaching the lake, and every moment ren- 
dered their voices more distinct to us. The old buck did 
not seem to be particularly anxious for his own safety, but 
was, nevertheless, moving very cautiously in order to throw 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 269 

the hounds off his trail. He remained in the water con- 
tinuously, either walking, trotting, or swimming, except 
when brought in contact with a point of land extending 
out into the lake a considerable distance, when he would 
boldly leave the water, cross the point, and again resume 
his peregrinations along the shore. In this manner the 
shrewd animal traversed more than a mile alongf the lake- 
shore, while we were following in our canoe behind him. 
He finally passed from the range of our vision for a brief 
period, and when next discovered by us had taken to the 
deep waters of the lake, and was at this moment swim- 
ming directly towards us, with the apparent intention of 
returning to his forest home by the same run-way by which 
he had left it. The hounds, in the mean while, had reached 
the lake, and were now following slowly along the shore. 
They had already ceased to give tongue and were appar- 
ently discouraged and despondent. 

I had never previously witnessed, on the part of a deer, 
so much coolness and intelligent manoeuvring as had taken 
place in this case. Every movement by this animal had 
been characterized by caution and intelligence. He was 
evidently on the alert, as was shown by the various attitudes 
which he assumed and the movements which he made. It 
seemed to us that he had a fixed plan which he was en- 
deavoring to execute ; and the plan itself spoke well for 
his intelligence ; but our presence on the lake, where we 
had not yet been observed by him, was the sole cause of 
its failure and his misfortune. Having discovered him 
well out in the lake and swimming directly towards us, we 
immediately placed our canoe partially behind an island, 



2-0 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

near which it was lying at the moment of the discovery, 
assuming such a position that we could continue td watch 
the approaching animal, while we were, at the same time, 
unobserved. Onward he came, while his large antlers 
were visible in the bright sunlight, as well as his head and 
his large, shapely neck. Patiently we waited for the arri- 
val of the moment when we should start boldly in the 
chase for him, when he should have passed so far from 
the land that we could be assured of overtaking him 
before he could reach the cover of the woods. The 
proper moment having arrived the canoe darted rapidly 
from its cover, driven forward by two paddles, while the 
water fairly boiled about its bow. The author was now 
aiding the euide in hasteninor forward the little bark. 

The old buck had not yet discovered us, and was, there- 
fore, swimming directly forward, as if he even desired the 
meeting; but be assured, my reader, that the moment he 
either sights or scents us he will make a change in his 
course and greatly accelerate his speed. On, onward we 
sped ! On, onward he came ! Two thousand yards now 
separated us, but we were discovered ! He had dropped 
his ears, turned his head, and was now bounding through 
the water towards the nearest land, but, alas, it was too late ! 
The victory was ours ! The poor animal had been fairly 
ambushed ! The question uppermost in my mind at this 
moment is, Do animals reason ? In the case of this deer 
it seems impossible to reconcile his varied movements con- 
sistently with the belief that instinct instead of a reasoning 
faculty controlled his action. It was observed that he lis- 
tened attentively to the baying of the hounds, and that his 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



271 



course and movements appeared to be based on the in- 
formation thus conveyed to him. Another observation was 
made during- this hunt bearing on the acuteness of the 
sense of smell in the red deer, which is regarded as worthy 
of a brief report in this little work. The hounds had been 
taken into the woods for the purpose of driving deej* into 
the lake, while "Jim" and myself were keeping a watch on 
one of the many islands of this beautiful sheet of water. 
This island was situated about three hundred yards from 
the mainland, where it was thought the deer might enter. 
We had continued to watch about three hours, when I dis- 
covered a buck walk leisurely out of the woods and un- 
concernedly pass down a sloping rock to the water, which 
he entered unhesitatingly and without causing any noise 
that was perceptible at our stand. We had not heard the 
hounds at any time during the morning prior to the ap- 
pearance of this deer, and their cry was not audible to 
us even at this moment. The deer, immediately after 
entering the water, began to swim directly towards us. 
We were at this moment seated in our birch-bark canoe, 
and remained completely immovable and cautiously ob- 
served the approaching animal. He had not placed more 
than eighty yards between himself and the point at which 
he had entered the lake when he beean to exhibit si^ns 
of alarm by moving his ears, snuffing in air, and turning 
his head in different directions, evidently for the purpose 
of sighting the object which he had already discovered by 
the sense of smell. In this effort he was certainly unsuc- 
cessful, since he did not immediately turn towards the 
mainland, but began to swim away from us in a line par- 



f 



2^72 TH^ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

allel with the shore of the island on which we still re- 
mained unseen by him. The course taken by this animal 
was that which, with the prevailing wind, would carry him 
most promptly beyond the limits of the scent which un- 
questionably pertained to us, although it was not such as 
to give him the highest degree of security under the cir- 
cumstances. I am thoroughly convinced that his action at 
this time was entirely controlled by the sense of smell, and 
it is, likewise, an additional argument in favor of the pos- 
session of rational faculties. 

The deer-hunt on the Lake of Many Islands having 
been completed, it now remained for us to commence the 
homeward journey. An arrangement had already been 
made with the owner of the team that had brought us into 
the woods to return to the place and take out our baggage 
on the following day. My son was not yet satisfied with 
the opportunity which had been given him to shoot ruffed 
grouse, and therefore it was setded that the lad should have 
an extra day for this sport. 

We were now about fifteen miles from Maganetawan 
village, and a little more than four miles from the Nip- 
issing and Maganetawan road. It was therefore decided 
that "Jim," in company with myself and son, should leave 
our camp on the island the day before the team was ex- 
pected to make its arrival. In accordance with this deter- 
mination we took our departure about three o'clock in the 
afternoon. "Tom" followed with a pack, consisting of our 
tent, blankets, and provisions, about an hour later. We 
were accompanied by a cocker-spaniel and a small mongrel 
dog which had been previously borrowed from a setder in 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



273 



this region, for the purpose of aiding in our search for 
grouse. The morning had been rainy, and consequently 
the trees, which were yet covered with a heavy foHage, 
were still loaded with water, and, as if to add to this un- 
favorable condition, there were several light showers 
during the afternoon before we reached our destination, 
which was the Nipissing and Maganetawan road. Owing 
to the unfavorable condition of the forest there was no 
effort made by us to procure game during the afternoon. 

This tramp was a rather dull affair, owing to the circum- 
stances surrounding us, but the road was reached in due 
time. "Tom" came up with the pack soon after our 
arrival, and our attention was immediately given to the 
erection of the tent and other preparations for the night. 
Scarcely had these preparations been completed when a 
heavy rain set in, which continued until daylight the fol- 
lowing morning. "Jim" prepared the breakfast, and we 
were ready to start on our tramp about seven o'clock in 
the morning. The woods were very wet, and conse- 
quently we had no intention of leaving the road unless 
seduced into such action by the barking of the dogs, which 
informed us of the close proximit}^ to us of the ruffed 
grouse. Having completed our arrangements we were 
off, leavino- the tent standing where it was erected the 
previous evening, on the roadside, while the baggage had 
been carefully stowed away under it. It had been pre- 
viously arranged with the captain that he should superin- 
tend the gathering up of the luggage and its transporta- 
tion to Maganetawan. 

The morning of this start had been cloudy and threat- 

18 



274 TH^ SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

ened rain at the moment of our departure, and conse- 
quently we strapped up our waterproofs and carried them 
with us. We had not tramped more than a half-mile when 
the earnest barking of the dogs a few rods from the road 
proclaimed to us that they had found a partridge. "Jim" 
was eager for sport, and therefore disregarded the pros- 
pect of receiving a shower-bath ; rushed rapidly from the 
road to the woods, where we soon heard him shouting to 
the lad to " come and kill the bird." The boy was off in 
the twinkling of an eye, perfectly willing to take a cold 
shower-bath if he could kill a single partridge. 

I was surprised that "Jim" should have shown so much 
anxiety in regard to the lad's shooting in this particular 
case ; but I subsequently learned that he was unable to 
work his gun, owing to the fact that his cartridges had 
been thoroughly saturated with water. The boy's arrival 
on the ground was a little too late, since the bird had 
shifted its position and they were unable to find it after- 
wards, although they spent fully twenty minutes in the 
search, and finally returned from the swamp as wet as 
drowned rats. 

"Jim's" manner indicated that he was much chagrined 
by the failure, but by philosophically reasoning he had suc- 
ceeded in convincing himself of the wisdom of his action, 
and boldly asserted that " I shall no longer dread to enter 
the swamp, since I care nothing for either mud or water." 
We now journeyed on, and were very soon informed by 
our dogs that they had found another partridge in the 
swamp, not more than ten rods from the road on which we 
were tramping. "Jim" instantly sprung into the woods and 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 



275 



was quickly lost to sight ; although within five minutes he 
reported progress by firing his shot-gun, and instantly 
shouted, " I have him this time !" while a few minutes later 
he returned to the road holding up for our inspection a 
large cock bird which he had killed at the first shot, while 
the bird was quietly settling on the branch of a small ever- 
green-tree. 

The clouds have begun to disappear, the bright rays 
of sunshine are now lighting up our pathway, while the 
gentle zephyrs are moving the foliage of the forest-trees. 
The prospects of a fine day's sport are brightening at this 
moment. "Jim" exclaims, "We will have a good day of it 
yet !" while at the same time a partridge rises at the road- 
side, — an event which is announced to us by the barking 
of the cocker-spaniel. This dog had taken his position at 
the foot of a small tree, the branches of which even over- 
hung the road-way, and here continued to bark lustily, 
thus keeping the attention of the bird until the lad sent 
up his compliments, which she promptly acknowledged by 
tumbling to the ground. 

The killing of this bird gave rise to a highly ludicrous 
scene, which I fully appreciated at the time, and which I 
can never readily forget. "Jim" had previously told me 
that the old cocker-spaniel had a very bad habit, and would 
" mouth" the birds whenever he could get hold of them, while 
he entirely disregarded the order to *' bring dead bird." 
The owner of this dog had, likewise, informed me that the 
animal had never received any training, but naturally 
hunted very well and was a good " treer." The instant 
the lad fired at this bird "Jim" sprang into the woods with 



276 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

the alacrity of a hound, in order to grab the falling par- 
tridge before the old cocker could get hold of him. The 
old cocker, however, succeeded in getting the best of 
"Jim," grabbed the bird in his mouth and started off at 
full speed, while the guide followed him on the jump, as a 
fox-hound might follow a hare, shouting with every bound, 
'■'■Stop! stop! drop it ! drop it !'' until the woods became 
fairly resonant widi these sounds, A few seconds later 
the dosf emerged from the woods, still clinorino- to the 
bird, closely followed by the irate guide, who still yelled 
as though his life depended on this effort. Here the old 
dog made the fatal mistake w^hich finally cost him the prize 
which he had attempted to steal. He started down the 
road as rapidly as he could run, but "Jim" steadily gained 
on him. Jim was wearing on this occasion a pair of 
heavy, leather brogans, which contained in the soles about 
fifty steel spikes. These shoes, in fact, were procured 
by him while he was engaged in that occupation com- 
monly designated as " river- driving',' and these spikes 
were intended to nail him firmly to the floating logs, and 
thus prevent accident or injury from slipping. The road 
on which this race between the old cocker and our guide 
took place was nearly a mass of rocks ; generally flat on 
the upper surface, which formed the road-bed, although 
they possessed many irregularities of surface, size, etc. 
The moment the euide and doof emero-ed from the woods 
and started off on this road they were in full view of both 
my son and myself. The sparks eliminated by the con- 
tact of the spikes in "Jim's" brogans with the rocks in 
his pathway lighted up his trail and added gready to the 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 277 

ludicrousness of the scene. The race may be fairly said 
to have been nip and tuck, but the guide is slowly gain- 
ing on the cocker. They had run about ten rods when 
'* Jim's" brogans were in close proximity to the old dog's 
tail. It seemed highly probable at this moment that the 
guide's spiked shoes would be used as a petard for the 
destruction of the fugitive thief, but no, he has deter- 
mined to capture him alive ! Behold them at this mo- 
ment! "Jim" has dropped with the intention of seizing 
the old rascal with his hands. The old doi: — as if antici- 
pating this movement — has suddenly jumped to one side, 
and instantly turned to retrace his steps. "Jim" struck 
the ground with a heavy thud, but was neither killed nor 
severely injured by this manoeuvre. The dog, however, in 
the mean time, has been rapidly gaining on the guide and 
was well started on the homeward stretch. He occasionally 
turned his head in order to catch a glimpse of his pursuer, 
but he did not halt nor even slacken his pace. " Jim" was 
soon on his feet again, but not until the dog had secured a 
good start. The guide was maddened by failure, and re- 
sumed the race with a fierce determination to win. Every 
second shortened the distance between the contestants when 
"Jim" had fairly succeeded in getting under way. The old 
dog seemed to fully comprehend the gravity of the situa- 
tion, and occasionally turned his head for the purpose 
of discovering and estimating his danger. He had passed 
safely one-half of the home-stretch, but was at this mo- 
ment compelled to drop the bird from his mouth. "Jim" 
was at this moment close upon the dog's heels, but he 
heeded not the dead bird, and was evidently determined 



278 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

to punish the thief. The old cocker showed at this time 
unmistakable signs of exhaustion and fear, and was un- 
questionably repentant. "Jim's" brogans were once more 
at the dog's caudal extremity, when he suddenly dodged 
aside and endeavored to reach the cover of the woods ; but 
he was too completely exhausted to accomplish this object. 
He dropped to the ground and looked imploringly into 
"Jim's" eyes for mercy; but "Jim" heeded not the implor- 
ing looks and cringing attitude of the old rascal. He had 
him by the nape of the neck, and promptly administered 
the well-merited punishment. The old dog fairly yelled 
with pain, and "Jim" yelled back to him, ''Steal the boys 
bird, will you ? I will teach you honesty. I will, you old 
rascal r 

The whole scene had been watched by the boy and 
myself. The comical part played by the actors can be 
more easily imagined than described. It caused peal after 
peal of laughter from the lad and myself The boy finally 
dropped down upon the ground before the race ended, 
havinof been so convulsed with lauo^hter as to be unable to 
stand erect, while I only remained standing until the race 
ended, and then followed my son's example. "Jim" having 
administered the necessary chastisement to the dog, like- 
wise sought rest on the bosom of mother-earth, while the 
old cocker, after having sulked a few moments in the 
woods, came sneakingly out and cautiously approached 
the contestant in the race, licked affectionately his hand, 
and then looked up imploringly into his eyes. The dog 
having thus humbly acknowledged the justice of the pun- 
ishment which had been inflicted upon him, was then freely 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 279 

forgiven by "Jim," who patted him affectionately on the 
head and back. 

Thus there was perfect harmony between the guide and 
the spaniel. The dog immediately reclined at "Jim's" side^ 
placed his head affectionately on his master; having as- 
sumed a position which enabled him to look wistfully into 
the latter's face. Our little mongrel dog had not remained 
entirely inactive during these exciting events. In the race 
he participated, although falling far behind both actors ; 
nevertheless he barked and wagged his tail continuously, 
thus showing the joy and interest which he felt in this part 
of the proceedings, although when the chastisement com- 
menced he drew his tail between his legs, suddenly disap- 
peared in the woods, and only reappeared after the lapse of 
an hour. This halt by the roadside lasted about three- 
fourths of an hour and then we started forward once more. 
We had not proceeded more than half a mile when the 
spirited barking of the old cocker-spaniel announced that 
he had found another partridge only a few rods from the 
road. " Jim" and the boy started off for this game. Five 
minutes later the report of the lad's gun proclaimed the 
death of this bird, while the guide and my son soon re- 
turned to the highway. They reported that the old dog 
had made no attempt on this occasion to secure the bird 
when it fell to the ground, but, on the contrary, he had not 
moved from where he was standing, and allowed the guide 
to approach quietly the dead bird and to pocket the same. 
In fact, it may be here stated that we had no further trouble 
with this dog during the remainder of the hunt. He had 
previously shown much affection for " Jim ;" but after the 



28o THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

race and the chastisement which he received he was cer- 
tainly doubly affectionate towards his master. He had 
always hunted faithfully for us, but during the balance of 
the day he seemed to be more than usually active and 
found many birds by the roadside. 

On one occasion during the afternoon, when he had 
been absent from us about an hour, we heard him barking 
sharply a comparatively long distance from the road. His 
earnest bark satisfied us beyond a doubt that he had found 
a bird and desired our assistance. 

The question was promptly discussed whether we 
should render the aid which he now souorht. The bird 
was nearly a half-mile from us ; would the dog be able to 
keep the attention of the partridge until one of our party 
could reach the spot ? This seemed rather doubtful, but 
"Jim" was anxious to make the attempt, while neither my- 
self nor my son desired to offer any objection. He there- 
fore started off with a lively step and very pleasant an- 
ticipations. The loud barking of the spaniel continued 
without any interruption until the death of the bird was 
announced by the report of "Jim's" fowling-piece. During 
this time the lad and myself patiently awaited the return 
of "Jim," but he was absent nearly half an hour, and in 
the mean time we had rested by the roadside. 

The dog returned with his master, and both were ap- 
parently well pleased with the result of their labor. The 
day's sport had been very satisfactory. The boy had killed 
four birds and "Jim" had bagged two. This result had 
been accomplished without leaving the road for any con- 
siderable period of time, except in the case which has just 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 281 

been reported. We had now approached within two miles 
of the village of Maganetawan. The most of the land 
bordering on the road had been cleared, was now culti- 
vated, and consequently we did not expect to find any- 
more birds, unless we turned aside from the highway and 
made search in the woods bordering on the fields. This 
course of procedure required a greater effort than we were 
now inclined to make. Consequently we continued to plod 
alonor the road, and soon arrived at the Maeanetawan 
Hotel, where we were once more kindly met by the pro- 
prietor. It was then about three o'clock in the afternoon, 
and inasmuch as we were very hungry, having had no 
dinner that day, our genial host was requested to prepare 
for us a hot meal. The order was kindly received and 
promptly executed, while the charge for this excellent meal 
for our whole party, consisting of three persons, was only 
seventy-five cents. 

The captain and "Tom" arrived about three hours 
later, bringing with them our luggage and the trophies of 
the hunt. They reported that the wagon which we had 
engaged to remove our luggage from camp had arrived 
at the lake-shore on time. But prior to its arrival the 
captain had disposed of the venison to the lumbermen in 
the vicinity, who were engaged in making roads, building 
shanties, and opening the small outlet of the lake in order 
that timber cut here during the approaching winter and 
placed on the ice might be floated away in the spring. He 
had likewise taken down the guide's tent, which was stand- 
ing on the island at the time of our departure, and gath- 
ered up the baggage which we had left behind, and moved 



282 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

the same with our canoes to the shore, where it was ac- 
cessible to the approach of the wagon. Therefore there 
had been no important delay after the arrival of the team 
at the lake. The homeward journey was promptly begun, 
and the tent which we left standing by the roadside in the 
morning was gathered up by them when they reached this 
point, after which they proceeded onward to the village of 
Maganetawan. 

The oruides remained with us about two hours after 
their arrival, and assisted us in repacking our baggage 
after we had exchano^ed our huntina--suits for those in 
which we were to travel. It may be here added for the 
benefit of those readers who are unacquainted in the vil- 
lage of Maganetawan, that it was found impossible to 
obtain the luxury of a bath-tub, and it was only after a 
lone and dilieent search that I found a citizen who was 
willing to undertake the task of shaving my face, since 
barbers and barber-shops are still unknown in this primi- 
tive settlement. 

Having completed the arrangements for our departure 
from this village on the following morning at an early hour, 
we retired to our room for sleep at about ten o'clock in the 
evening. We were aroused from our slumbers by a hotel 
servant about three o'clock the next morning; promptly 
donned our clothing and soon appeared at the foot of the 
stairs, where we met the man who had called us, and who 
then informed us that he was in readiness to conduct us 
to the steamboat which was to convey us to Burk's Falls. 
He then placed our baggage on an ordinary wheelbarrow, 
seized the handles, and moved forwards towards the steam- 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 283 

boat wharf. This wharf was located about one-half mile 
from the hotel, and in order to reach it we were compelled 
to cross the fields, where we encountered many obstacles, 
especially mud and occasional patches of ice. 

The boat, at the moment of our arrival, had already 
gotten up steam, and moved away from the wharf about 
fifteen minutes later. She was ably manned by the captain 
and his jolly crew, which consisted of a single individual, 
who attended to all the duties required on this steamboat 
which were not performed by the captain. My son and 
myself were the only passengers in the cabin of the boat 
this morning, although she could have carried very com- 
fortably about eight or ten persons. 

The village of Burk's Falls is situated on the banks of 
the Maganetawan River, about thirty-five miles above the 
village of Maganetawan. The river route by which we 
were now travelling was very enjoyable, since the scenery 
is very picturesque. The whole distance is traversed in the 
short space of five hours under favorable circumstances. 
My son, after entering the cabin of the steamboat, found 
his surroundings so favorable to sleep that he promptly 
entered the embrace of old Morpheus, and continued to 
enjoy the most delightful repose until we had arrived 
within a few miles of the end of our journeying by. water. 

Nine o'clock that morninor found us seated at Burk's 
hotel table enjoying a good breakfast, having been 
promptly transported by an open passenger-wagon to 
this inn immediately after the arrival of the steamboat. 
The driver of the wagon patiently waited for us while we 
breakfasted and then drove us to the railroad depot. 



284 THE SPORTSMAN'S PARADISE; 

The train on which we were to travel to Toronto did 
not arrive promptly that morning, and consequently we 
were compelled to remain at this station about an hour. 
My son during this period kept a close watch on the 
market-basket containing the ruffed grouse, w^hich he was 
very anxious to convey to his mother and sister, who were 
now stopping at the Queen's Hotel in Toronto, where we 
expected to arrive about eight o'clock that evening. The 
train finally arrived, and we promptly entered the cars, 
which were roughly constructed and primitive in their ap- 
pearance. There were on the train at the time about 
twenty passengers. The greater number of them were 
pioneers from the backwoods, who had that morning left 
their log cabins for a day's recreation in travel over this 
newly-constructed railroad, the completion of which was 
expected to mark a new era of prosperity and happiness 
in their lives. Among this class of passengers there was 
one who was especially conspicuous. He was evidently a 
sturdy son of toil, and had spent several years in the back- 
woods, although a Scotchman by birth and education, who 
proclaimed his nativity by his brogue, features, and the 
dress that he wore. 

The appearance of the man indicated that he had al- 
ready passed threescore years or more. He carried with 
him on this occasion his bagpipes, and entertained us with 
his choicest music, while a happy smile lighted up his 
wrinkled face. He played on the old musical instrument 
with great energy, and scarcely halted for breath so long 
as two or three of the passengers seemed willing to give 
him audience. He manifested much anxiety, whenever the 



OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA. 285 

train halted at the different stations along the route, to en- 
tertain with his musical performances all the persons in or 
about the cars. At such times he took great pains to seat 
himself in such a position that all who heard the music 
might at the same time behold the instrument and the per- 
former. In this manner the old Scotchman labored the 
whole forenoon for the entertainment of others, neither 
asking nor receiving a single penny for his services ; but 
the manner and the expressions of the entertainer indicated 
that he was even better pleased than those whom he had 
sought to entertain. 

This train dragged along slowly during the forenoon, 
although there were few stopping-places, since we were pass- 
ing only through a forest or very sparsely-settled country. 

During the afternoon we changed to another train and 
then proceeded rapidly towards Toronto, where we arrived 
about half-past eight in the evening. We had anxiously 
looked forward during the whole day to our arrival at this 
point, since we earnestly desired to join the other mem- 
bers of our family, who were then stopping at the Queen's 
Hotel. 

The lad returned to his mother and sister greatly elated 
by his success in hunting, and even to this hour he regards 
the time thus spent as the happiest period of his life. 




That retriever. 



I 



INDEX. 



A thunder-storm, 73. 

A hard bed, 73. 

A shot at a moose, 167. 

A youthful, driver, J 22. 

A beaver-house and family, 136. 

A hard dinner, bread frozen, 231. 

An exciting chase, 144. 

An old Scotchman and his bagpipe, 284. 

Animal intelligence, 267. 

Anton Miltenberger, the photographer, 81. 

Baysville, travelling towards, 27. 
Baysville, departure from, 28. 
Beaver trysting-place, 115. 
Bess, Mr., proprietor of the stage line, 97. 
Bear's food-supply, 235. 
Bear, path of, 225. 
Bob Noble, a guide, 69. 
Bob Noble in a sad plight, 76. 
Boy, killed his first deer, 255. 
Boy's first deer-hunt, 253. 
•Bracebridge reached, 25. 
Break camp at Long Lake, 176. 
Bride, personal appearance of, 91. 
Burk's Falls, departure from, 118. 
Burk's Falls, village of, 283. 
Buck, manoeuvring of, 268. 

Camp, break on Long Lake, 175. 

Camp near Spence, 105. 

Camped on trail leading from Upper Long 

Lake to Sugar-Bush Lake, 178 
Camped on moose-trail, 196. 
Captain Ross " could not kill moose but 

did kill deer," 204. 
Captain Ross angry and disappointed, 206. 
Captain Ross made his appearance, 109. 
Captain's deer-dogs, 112. 
Captain Ross returned to the party, 131. 



Captain George Ross, chief guide, 65. 
Captain Ross killed the bull moose, 238. 
Canadian custom-house officer, 22. 
Canoes leaking badly, 28, 
Cabin, Harkness's, 241. 
Cathedral, St, James', a magnificent struc- 
ture, 61. 
Chase, an exciting, 144. 
Chase, moose-, excitement of, 193. 
Chase of doe, exciting, 256. 
Chase of doe, doubly exciting, 261. 
Chief John and his hound, ^;^. 
Chief John and his object, 36. 
Chief John, poor, unhappy man, 55. 
Chief guide. Captain Ross, 65. 
" Chris," our old friend, 99. 
Classification of hunters, 3. 
Crackers and cheese were obtained, 246. 

Departure from Burk's Falls, 118. 
Departure from Sphynx Falls, 125. 
Departure from Mossup's Landing, 127. 
Departure from Lake Rosseau, 102. 
Departure from Pickerel Lake, 72. 
Departure of the wedding guests, 94 
Departure from Baysville, 28. 
Deer-hunt, started on, 49. 
Deer, first killed, 52. 
Deer-hunt on Long Lake, 141. 
Deer- and moose-hunt, preparation for, So. 
Deer-hunt with villagers, 247. 
Deer-hunt, the boy's first, 253. 
Deer, the first killed by the boy, 255. 
Description of the wedding, 88. 
Discovery of moose, 210. 
Disappointment foreshadowed, 227. 
Doe, exciting chase, 256. 
Doe, doubly exciting chase, 261. 
Dogs are fairly yelling, 263. 

287 



288 



INDEX. 



Dogs, captain's, deer, 112. 

Dr. Pokorney, the old deer-hunter, 43. 

Dr. Pokorney's son, 57. 

Drying venison, 146. 

Drunken orgie of lumbermen, 62. 

Dream, photographer's, 163. 

Esculapius lost his patience, 28. 
Esculapius and Scribe follow John, 38. 
Esculapius, a description of, 20. 
Esculapius, smiling and happy, 32. 
Expert fisherman, the Governor, 35. 
Exercise, health-giving power, 13. 
Exercise, a remedy for obesity, 8. 

Falls, Burk's, departure from, 118. 

Falls, Sphynx, departure from, 125. 

Fisherman, expert, the Governor, 35. 

Fish, Governor off for, 37. 

Fishing, Governor and myself went, 65. 

" Fire at him !" 212. 

Free grant lands, 85. , 

George set fire to frying-pan, 66. 

George Ross, chief guide, 65. 

Governor starts for home, 68. 

Governor remains silent, 30. 

Governor never winced, 32. 

Governor an expert fisherman, 35. 

Governor off for fish, 37. 

Governor arrived in front of cabin, 39. 

Governor and Esculapius start for Watte's 

Creek, 42. 
Governor and Esculapius return from 

Watte's Creek, 46. 
Governor and myself went fishing, 65. 
Governor, description of, 20. 
Goldsmith frightened, 17. 
Guides, Indian, habits of, 23. 
Guides, employed at Toronto, 24. 
Guide, Wellington Ross, 82. 

Hard bed, 73. 

Hard dinner, bread frozen, 231. 

Hard tramp, 245. 

Harkness's cabin, 241. 

Health-giving power of exercise, 13. 

Henry's day with ruffed grouse, 273, 



Home, Governor starts for, 63. 

Hotel, proprietor of, 16. 

Hotel, Pratt's, 63. 

Horka-Porka portage, crossing of, 1 27. 

Hunt, deer-, on Long Lake, 141. 

Hunters, classification of, 3. 

Hunters, how they spend their time, 4. 

Hunters, true, 5. 

Hunting, benefits derived 'from, 7. 

Hunting, a science and an art, 7. 

Lidian guides, habits of, 23. 
Intelligence of animals, 267. 

Jim's revelation, 35. 

Jim and the old cocker-spaniel, 275. 

Jim goes for the cocker and the cocker is 

flogged, 277. 
John McCarthy, a gamin, 65. '■ 
John's inamorata, 37. 
John, Chief, object of, 36. 
John, Chief, hound of, ■},-:,. ' 

John Royall, good services of, 17. ^ 

Labor a pleasure, 233. 

Lake on mountain-top, 139. 

Lake Pickerel, our stay at, 70. 

Lake Pickerel, departure from, 72. 

Lake Mud, 74. 

Lake Loon, camp near, 74. 

Lake Sand, start for, 77. 

Lake Rosseau, romantic wedding on, 66. 

Lake Sugar-Bush, return to, 220. 

Lake of Many Islands, 251. 

Lake, Hotel, Ten-Mile, 104. 

Landing, Mossup's, departure from, 127. 

Leaking badly, canoes, 28. 

Lean-to, night under, 208. 

Long Lake, start for, 137. 

Long Lake, deer-hunt, 141. 

Lonely night, 240. 

Ludicrous scene, 275. 

Lumbermen hors de cotnbal, 64. 

Lumbermen, their drunken orgie, 62. 

Maganetawan River, scenery, 1 14. 
Magnificent structure, St. James' Cathedral, 
61. 



i 



INDEX. 



289 



Miltenberger, the photographer, 81. 
Moose and deer, preparation for grand 

hunt of, 80. 
Moose, a shot at, 167. 
Moose, trailing, 172. 
Moose-calling, 172. 

Moose-chase, great excitement of, 193. 
Moose-trail, camped on, 196. 
Moose-yard, wild excitement in this chase, 

198. 
Moose, the woods are full of them, 202. 
Moose, Captain Ross could not kill, but 

did kill deer, 204. 
Moose, discovery of, 210. 
Moose sighted, 212. 
Moose bull killed, 214. 
Moose cow wounded, 216. 
Moose cow wounded and trailed, 217. 
Moose meat, living on, 219. 
Moose photographed, 222. 
Mc'jse-bull killed by Captain Ross, 238. 
Mo.^se reconnoissance, 182. 
Moose reconnoissance, delays, etc., 183. 
Moose reconnoissance, started on, 185. 
Moose reconnoissance, a frugal meal, 189. 
Moose reconnoissance, buck killed, 191. 
Mountain-top, lake on, 139. 
Mossup's Landing, departure from, 127. 
Mud Lake, 74. 

Noble, Bob, a guide, 69. 
Noble, Bob, in a sad plight, 76. 

Ol^esity, exercise a remedy for, 8. 
Oiifice, we immediately walked up to, 14. 
Our start for home, 282. 

Party attacked by fleas, 66. 
Partridge which was not killed, 107. 
Partridge-shooting, more of this sport, 279. 
Physical exertion, effects of, 2. 
Photographer Anton Miltenberger, 81. 
Photographer in search of partridges, 119. 
Photographer wins the prize, 145. 
Photographer lost, 152. 
Photographer found, 165. 
Photographer's wanderings, 156. 
Photographer's dream, 163. 



Photographer supplied our camp with 

ruffed grouse, 223. 
Photographed moose, 222. 
Pickerel Lake, our stay at, 70. 
Pickerel Lake, departure from, 72. 
Pioneers, their hardships, 84. 
Played out, 246. 

Poor Goldsmith thoroughly frightened, 17. 
Pokorney, Dr., the old deer-hunter, 43. 
Pokorney, Dr., son of, 57. 
Proprietor of stage-line, Mr. Bess, 97. 
Pratt's Hotel, 63. 
Proprietor of hotel, 16. 

Reconnoissance, moose, 182 
Reconnoissance, moose, delays, etc., 183. 
Reconnoissance, moose, started on, 185. 
Reconnoissance, moose, a frugal meal, 189. 
Reconnoissance, moose, buck killed, 191. 
Recreation required, 2. 
Restricted, killing of game should be, 134. 
Rendezvous, the village, 65. 
River Maganelawan, scenery of, 114. 
Royall, John, good services of, 17. 
Ross, Captain, made his appearance, 109. 
Ross, Captain, returned to the party, 131. 
Ross, Captain, could not kill moose, but 

did kill deer, 204. 
Ross, Captain, angry and disappointed, 

206. 
Ross, Captain, chief guide, 65. 
Ross, Captain, killed bull moose, 238. 
Rosseau, our departure from, 102. 
Romantic wedding on an island in Lake 

Rosseau, 86. 

Sand Lake, started for, 77. 

Scenery on Maganetawan River, 114. 

Scribe prefers a bed of balsam boughs, 31. 

Scribe and Esculapius follow John, 38. 

Shot at a moose, 167. 

Shelbyville, Tenn., 13. 

Sighted moose, 212. 

Snow-storm, 228. 

Son of Dr. Pokorney, 57. 

Spence, our camp near, 105. 

Sphynx Falls, departure from, 118. 

Stay at Pickerel Lake, 70. 



«9 



290 



INDEX. 



Struce, Mr., our first meeting, 97. 
St. James' Cathedral, a magnificent struc- 
ture, 61. 
Storm, rain-, 221. 
Storm, thunder-, 73. 
Sunday fishing and what followed, 34. 
Sugar-Bush Lake, return to, 220. 
Surprised wood-chopper, 244. 

Ten-Mile Lake Hotel, 104. 
The hunt ended, 281. 
The old buck, manoeuvring of, 268. 
The dogs are fairly yelling, 263. 
The boy's first deer-hunt, 253. 
The boy killed his first deer, 255. 
The author and his son, 250. 
The ox-team and the old jumper, 242. 
The wedding described, 88. 
The grand moose- and deer-hunt, prepara- 
tion for, 80. 
The lean-to, night under, 208. 
The village rendezvous, 65. 
This tramp long to be remembered, 30. 
Thunder-storm, 73. 
Toronto, guides employed, 24. 



Trysting-place, beaver, 115. 
Trailing moose, 172. 

Unsavory sleeping-apartments, 41. 
Unpleasant tramp, 229. 

Village rendezvous, 65. 
Villagers, deer-hunt with, 247. 
Village of Burk's Falls, 283. 

Watte's Creek, return of Governor and 

Esculapius from, 46. 
Watte's Creek started for by Governor 

and Esculapius, 42. 
Wedding, romantic, on an island in Lake 

Rosseau, 86. 
Wedding described, 88. 
Wedding guests take their departure 94. 
Wellington Rose, guide, 82. 
What has happened ? 264. 
Wilderness, unexplored, 12. 
Wood-chopper surprised, 244. 

Youthful driver, 122. 



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